Left blinker stopped working , help.

[66DartSedan]

So this cold NYC morning, I had to get to set , I put my keys in and....nothing. the oil light came on, the battery read 12.56 so I had to "jump" the starter with a screw driver. But now my gauges are dead and so is me left blinker. Thoughts? Change fuses? Relay? Would just the right blinker work if the relay was bad?

 

[68gtxman]

So this cold NYC morning, I had to get to set , I put my keys in and....nothing. the oil light came on, the battery read 12.56 so I had to "jump" the starter with a screw driver. But now my gauges are dead and so is me left blinker. Thoughts? Change fuses? Relay? Would just the right blinker work if the relay was bad?

12.5 volts is normal. If you shorted the solenoid to start it, then the battery is fine and you have a different sort of problem. First place to check is the starter relay. Could be wiring problem, ignition switch, starter solenoid, etc. You need to do a trouble shooting procedure to narrow it down. I know of no failure mode related to starting and just the left turn signal.

 

[toolmanmike]

Possibly a fusable link. A test light or multimeter is your friend.

 

[66DartSedan]

I

Possibly a fusable link. A test light or multimeter is your friend.

Thanks I have a test lighter where and what exactly do I test?

 

[Frank Mopar]

Possibly a fusable link. A test light or multimeter is your friend.

The must have in your toolbox these days is a Power Probe.

 

[toolmanmike]

The must have in your toolbox these days is a Power Probe.

Exactly. At least a PP3 with voltmeter. Way handy to apply power and good ground to a circuit.

 

[toolmanmike]

The "blinker" sounds like a ground problem. It could be the cause of other issues. I don't have a schematic to help you.

 

[66DartSedan]

The "blinker" sounds like a ground problem. It could be the cause of other issues. I don't have a schematic to help you.

Weird, okay. Just yesterday it worked fine. I don't know where to begin

 

[RedFish]

You have to believe these are separate issues until you discover they are related in some way. Factory wiring diagrams can only help.
I really can't lay out a diagnosis procedure. I would start with a basic 12 volt test lamp at the yellow wire to starter relay. If I continue on to discover melted wires and crossed circuits at bulkhead connector, under the dash, back of inst' panel, wherever... I had to start somewhere. Good hunting

 

[66DartSedan]

You have to believe these are separate issues until you discover they are related in some way. Factory wiring diagrams can only help.
I really can't lay out a diagnosis procedure. I would start with a basic 12 volt test lamp at the yellow wire to starter relay. If I continue on to discover melted wires and crossed circuits at bulkhead connector, under the dash, back of inst' panel, wherever... I had to start somewhere. Good hunting

Thanks, i feel a bit silly, because it was just the bulb, and luckily the previous owner had a few new ones in the trunk. I swapped it out and im good to go.

 

[Bill Crowell]

Usually bulb circuit faults are not caused by a completely open circuit, but instead by just a few ohms of resistance. But since you are starting off with only 12 volts, it doesn't take very much resistance to reduce the voltage so low that it won't fire the bulb, and the more current that you draw, the more voltage drop there will be.

Don't be fooled, however, when you connect a voltmeter (remember, a voltmeter is, and has to be, a high-resistance device, so it draws almost no current) across the unloaded circuit (i.e., bulb removed) and you get almost full battery voltage. This does not mean the circuit is good, but instead merely that the relatively low resistance in the circuit causes almost no voltage drop because so little current is being drawn through your voltmeter.

But when you load the circuit (insert the bulb) and connect your voltmeter across the circuit again, there will significant voltage drop because substantial current is being drawn. This is the dead giveaway that you need to chase down the bad connection.

 

[GGs66GT]

as old as your car is it may be in the firewall connecter....

 

[66DartSedan]

View attachment 1715155580

Usually bulb circuit faults are not caused by a completely open circuit, but instead by just a few ohms of resistance. But since you are starting off with only 12 volts, it doesn't take very much resistance to reduce the voltage so low that it won't fire the bulb, and the more current that you draw, the more voltage drop there will be.

Don't be fooled, however, when you connect a voltmeter (remember, a voltmeter is, and has to be, a high-resistance device, so it draws almost no current) across the unloaded circuit (i.e., bulb removed) and you get almost full battery voltage. This does not mean the circuit is good, but instead merely that the relatively low resistance in the circuit causes almost no voltage drop because so little current is being drawn through your voltmeter.

But when you load the circuit (insert the bulb) and connect your voltmeter across the circuit again, there will significant voltage drop because substantial current is being drawn. This is the dead giveaway that you need to chase down the bad connection.

Just as a test today. I hooked up the voltmeter to the battery which read 12.75

I started the car and went to see what happened, and it ...slowly...climbed up to 14.27 max ...Id say it took a good 20 seconds to do that. Does that seem wrong?