Lesonal paint by Sikkens

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Louie70Dart

Southern IL. Complete opposite of k-town
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Anyone here ever use this brand? I'm going to get a 1.5 gal admix kit and want to hear input. Reason for so much is it will give me some to practice with. Since I ain't a pro, I don't need to concern myself so much with VOC's and I can thin it out if I need to. I want to try to recreate the B5 Blue of a '70 Dart Swinger. Thanks.
 
I've got a body shop on my route that uses it exclusively. It works well and the price is right. toolmanmike
 
Years ago,thats all my friends shop would use.He turned out to be a sales rep at the big Auto shows for Sikkens.Turned out some nice paint jobs too.
 
I've used it on two cars, it's a great paint.
C
 
It was on Billy's old '67 Camaro. One night he got a wild hair and decided to remove some of the graphics ... well, one decal came right off but the second one took paint with it. So he just went for it: the entire car was stripped down to bare primer within a few hours just with razor blades, with no damage to the primer at all!

It still makes me mad as hell because it took me almost 200 hours sanding my Cuda by hand. LOL I didn't have a D.A. in those days.

I'd highly recommend Lesonal. Especially if you have plans to repaint it at some point in the future.
 
CudaChick1968 said:
It was on Billy's old '67 Camaro. One night he got a wild hair and decided to remove some of the graphics ... well, one decal came right off but the second one took paint with it. So he just went for it: the entire car was stripped down to bare primer within a few hours just with razor blades, with no damage to the primer at all!

It still makes me mad as hell because it took me almost 200 hours sanding my Cuda by hand. LOL I didn't have a D.A. in those days.

I'd highly recommend Lesonal. Especially if you have plans to repaint it at some point in the future.
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WOW, that would stink to have happen! Even if you were going to recoat later. Kinda makes you wonder about the adhesion in the first place; will it fall off when I don't want it to? I work for a paint company and it's been my experience that if you don't prep the surface well enough, (clean,scuff), there will always be issues. Not saying that that surface was not prepped right. I have also seen coatings need an extra material, (adhesion promoter), to be applied to help it stick. So, just proves nothing is "foolproof".
 
Louie, I can't speak to the quality of the paint job on the Camaro ... but that primer sure was nice. I doubt if it would've even needed a good block sanding to be reshot again.
 
pettybludart said:
Years ago,thats all my friends shop would use.He turned out to be a sales rep at the big Auto shows for Sikkens.Turned out some nice paint jobs too.
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As far as I know Lesonal was introduced by Sikkens less than 10 years ago. Every paint brand has their cheap version, most of them are watered down ,can't speak for Lesonal,
 
I use Lesonal all the time in my body shop, and it's a great paint! I would have no worries in using Lesonal. Just make sure not to use a cheap clear, as it just won't hold up over time! Lesonal has a good clear out called, ProAir Clear, and it works great. It also buffs like butter. Cost here in Montana is about 180.00 a gallon (which includes the price of either the fast or slow hardener).
 
Lesonal base/clear on mine with U-Tech primers. I believe Lesonal is Akzo-Nobel's mid line of products with Sikkens at the top: 1) U-tech 2) Lesonal 3) Sikkens.

And it doesn't mean their bottom of the line is crap. The higher ends stuff is optimized for production work where speed and other things are important.
 
I know this is a old post but I'm looking for the Sikkens color for 69 B5 blue. Thanks.
 
Your local jobber should be able to cross reference the old chips with their new systems, based on my experience.
 
Yeah good luck finding paint codes for factory colors in sikkens. They have to do a camera shot of the color to make a formula,
I much rather prefer diamont base coat with glasurit clear coat.
Also a paint job is only as good as the bodywork and prep for paint
 
Also a paint job is only as good as the bodywork and prep for paint[/QUOTE said:
LOL, I'm finding that out the hard way. I can't begin to tell you how many times I have had to redo work. Drivers door is the latest example, I didn't have enough base coat on it so when I went to sand, I broke through and it was not pretty. Almost have it built back up with the filler. I'll basecoat it here in the next few days.....fingers crossed. LOL
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Louie70Dart said:
LOL, I'm finding that out the hard way. I can't begin to tell you how many times I have had to redo work. Drivers door is the latest example, I didn't have enough base coat on it so when I went to sand, I broke through and it was not pretty. Almost have it built back up with the filler. I'll basecoat it here in the next few days.....fingers crossed. LOL
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Trial and error youll get it. Good thing god invented persistance, determination and sand paper lol
 
that's sounds like an issue where using hardner in your basecoat really does help. I generally use about four different bases (mainly because of color matches). I use Diamont, PPG's DBC (Deltron 2000), Lesonal, and Sherwin Williams. I am down to spraying only SPI Clears now, as I find them to be excellent, and the cost is far less expensive than the conventional clears out there. I use SPI Universal Clear on larger areas, and their URO 2020 on smaller repairs. Back in 2005-2008 I was using a lot of diamont, but switched to lesonal mainly, because of prices. Than in about 2009 lesonal's prices got jacked, and I mainly went back to Diamont. Although I do like both DBC and Sherwin, their prices seem to be higher in most cases. Plus with the Sherwin basecoat, you need to buy the stabilizer, whereas, the other three brands, I can use the SPI reducer in them. I find over time that each company has some of their paint codes match up with the color chips they generally have on hand in regards to the variances within a paint code, while other times, not so great. I use to think one was better than the other, but lately I have found that they are all about the same in terms of color matches, with PPG DBC probably having the worse color matches. Seems almost everything in DBC needs to be tinted around. I would rank the others as Sherwin probably best for matching up variances within a paint code, followed by Diamont, than Lesonal. PPG's DBC gets last place for my vote in regards to the variance chips matching up right out of the box.
 
If I was doing over again, I would use auto paint for the whole process, but since I worked at a paint company, and one of the units was moving, I was able to get paint at a very good price. They were going to throw it out! That is where I got my clear coat anyway. Very good stuff with liquid protection against gas, oil, hydraulic fluid, jet fuel, and so on. The base I had was made with material that was just about out of shelf life. The base thinner/reducer/activator was changed several times, issues with blistering. Well, I had to shelve the base, to bad cause I really liked the color, but PPG Chromabase, I know bought out, was a good match. Anyway, the clear is a three component mix, 2K urethane. Clear, catalyst, isocyanate, and the activator. Depending on temp you use the matching one. Enough clear for a 5 gallon mix. Number for clear is F3029 by Awlgrip, for high end boats initially. It's what I have, I'm going to use it.
 
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