Lets talk about what you want to see in a Gen III aftermarket Block?

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How about a kind of dry sump provision? Not a full dry sump setup, and not a 2 stage oil pump like the OEM LS7 setup. But provisions to setup the oil pump pickup to draw from an external tank and something to suck the oil out of the pan and pump it to the tank?

Most of this could probably be done in the side of the pan, but better to look at it now rather than after the block has been cast. :)

Really don't see it being useful on the street. Only an idea that might be useful to a pro-touring guy where the potential for high g-loads might keep the oil away from the pickup.

Only tossing it out there since I can't think of any good suggestions.

:lol:
 
racerjoe said:
Honestly, if I were to start a new build that was a cruiser, I'd use the 4L80 trans with a G3. The 4L80 is easy to control with a Holley, and you don't have to deal with all the silly nuances the modern Chrysler transmissions have. The biggest ones being you have to use the factory shifter and then there's only 1 company that supports the control system from a stand alone prospective. Let's not forget the aftermarket support for the 4L80.
Click to expand...

Exactly. I love the idea of an 8HP70 but the trans is big and the controller is expensive. At least there is a controller option now, but it is twice the cost of a stand alone one for the 4L__E.

Personal opinion, but I think the 8HP is a phenomenal trans and better than the GM trans. Not that I have data, just my opinion. And like most everything Mopar, it comes with some "overhead" like higher cost, difficulties to swap, generally much larger than the GM offerings, etc. I have to bet that the shifter output could be faked and that issue bypass, but no one has done it yet (that I know of). And I sure hope Holley is working on the software to run the 8A but who know when (if at all) it will be available. Even with that, my bet is the 4L__E swap will be more popular.

One 8HP70 use that has really intrigue me is in some BMW racecars. They use a clutch rather than the torque converter to get it rolling and then shift it like a paddle shifted manual. Just sounds like a killer way to use it, but I am weird. And that topic is for a different thread, not this one.
 
If you were to run a belt driven oil pump, you could use the existing in and out fittings above the oil filter. The Dart block has four bolt main with NO cross bolting. I thought of the short or no skirt deal, too. Way custom pan then......
 
block isnt an issue till around 1800hp ish and depending on crank stroke can raise or lower that number.
my biggest issue is cam gear. that needs addressed before anything block related is. by my fuel usage logs ive seen 1900hpish with bge block n head castings. both held up fine.
however i have struggled with ignition issues from day 1 due to cam/crank sensors, wobbling timing trigger wheels on the cam, and currently a dies for no reason issue. i blame on the timing gear. as nothing else has not been replaced more than a few times.
 
Not a new block feature but something that would compliment your new block and be very useful for us folks swapping factory gen3s into our old cars is a simplified front cover. Just race car/hot rod accessories; small alternator mount in a convenient location and provisions for a readily available OTS elec water pump.
Also…alum valve covers with provisions for popular coil packs like the IGN1As. And finally, how bout reproducing or improving on that popular 6.1 alum intake?
On the new block, my vote is for aluminum.
 
With all the lifter issues that have happed with the 3ghemi, it might be a good idea to design the lifter bores to provide better lubrication to lifter. When you look at lifters that have been in use for a while, there are pretty noticeable wear marks on the lifter body. However, the part of the lifter that could use the most attention would be lowest part of the lifter, the roller. The vast about of lubrication for lifter occurs much higher by the lifter oil gallery. There a lot of strong feeling about the ultimate cause about lifter and cam failures, but increasing a small amount of lubrication to this area sure wouldn't hurt.
 
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