Like a bomb went off under the hood...

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Hemihead2 said:
Can you please explain why a 160* doesn’t allow the engine to run cooler? Seems that opening sooner would give the cooling system a head start to start dissipating the heat...Maybe I just never thought that through the whole way.

Has anyone had experience with the Flow-Cooler water pumps. At the time I bought it they were all the rage.
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A lower-temp thermostat increases load on the cooling system because you have less of a temperature differential between the water/coolant in the rad and the outside air. Also your engine puts out a "set" amount of heat so trying to keep the whole system at a lower temperature means it effectively needs to shed heat faster. The only reason to put a lower-temp t-stat in your engine is if it's heavily built and needs to run at a cooler temp for best efficiency, like if you have high compression the lower running temps will reduce detonation.

Regarding electric water pumps, the Roadkill/Engine Masters guys did dyno tests of how much power engine accessories actually draw and it's almost nothing; I think they got less than a 5 HP loss (at the top of the RPM range) going from an externally-powered electric pump to a mechanical water pump with a typical pulley setup (slight overdrive on the pump), they also pointed out that mech pumps almost always have better flow and cool better since they change RPM with the engine. Knowing that, there's almost no reason to run an electric pump at all IMO.
 
You have some serious coorosion problems that need to be solved. Had the system ever been flushed out? People still use tap water to flush the system which just contaminates it even more. It needs to be flushed with distilled water and a radiator flush product. Especially these days when there is a lot of aluminum add-ons in our engines. Since you have some dissimilar metal coorosion going on, it is safe to say that the coolant has lost its ability and needs to be completely replaced.
 
just a guess but what about checking the timing I seen that be a problem before good luck
 
I admit of all the old Mopars I have owned over the last 3 decades, IF the OEM cooling components were in good condition, I never have had one rnhot, Some engine seem to run at a slightly temp than others, Never owned a electric fan deal.
Cars sitting and not being driven seems to always be hard on them.
 
All aluminum radiators do is save weight, they DO NOT cool better than stock core radiators! Don't let the hype fool you...
 
I usually say to never assume anything, but in this case assume that all of the cooling systems various components have been subjected to abnormal corrosion ( cap, thermostat, thermostat neck which are visible) assume that the components not visible are compromised as well such as the water pump impeller, seal, bearing that are lubricated by the coolants chemical package. Backside of core plugs, water jackets, cooling passages in the heads, radiator and heater hoses, heater valves, nipples, etc... And last but not least is to replace not only the coolant with distilled water and the proper ethylene glycol chemical mix for cast iron, copper/brass-lead cooling systems, but the engine oil and if equipped with an a/t the transmission fluid as well which were subjected to high temps and had deteriorated component protection due to the age of the fluids.
 
For what it is worth, I ran into something strange on my wifes old CJ-5 this spring, after sitting all winter, never started for about 6 months, did the usual, check all the fluids before starting it.

The radiator cap still was holding pressure after sitting all winter, never did have an overheating problem with the old Jeep, but I just replace the cap and added a very small amount of anti-freeze, all is good.
 
Yeah - bad radiator cap. I had one go on my tow rig some years back. The upper tank pf the radiator split a seam. The force blew the radiator back and around the cooling fan, all liquid in the cooling jackets immediately turned to steam, the air filter element (open) blew back around the carb stud, and the hood and one of the hinges was bent. Sounded like a bomb went off.
 
moper said:
Yeah - bad radiator cap. I had one go on my tow rig some years back. The upper tank pf the radiator split a seam. The force blew the radiator back and around the cooling fan, all liquid in the cooling jackets immediately turned to steam, the air filter element (open) blew back around the carb stud, and the hood and one of the hinges was bent. Sounded like a bomb went off.
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DAMN!!!!

Letting go with that much force will leave some scars if it gets to you.
 
Sure woke my now ex-wife up. Plus it was on the approach to the Tappan Zee Bridge in NY coming home from Englishtown. I swapped the entire cooling system from my Cuda on the trailer into the truck and got it home to CT. Long day...
 
Worth mentioning but not brought up. Make sure the thermostat is working and not stuck closed, also make sure it’s installed correctly, not upside down. Not doubting or bashing, I’ve seen to done more than once. I am even guilty of this!
 
I’m pretty sure a water pump isn’t supposed to look like this...hopefully this was part of the problem.

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I think those were used on ac cars for increased cooling flow.
 
My point was that it was pretty corroded. The plate was installed by Flo-Cooler. They said it would prevent cavitation of the fluid. Like I stated somewhere back, it worked well until the corrosion built up..
 
Were you using distilled water?
 
If you’re brave enough, there are some water jacket plugs on the side of the block that you can use to drain and flush out the nasty stuff. I think they’re Allen head. Or pop the freeze plugs. Buy 20 gallons of distilled water and soak then flush the **** away with some fine flushing product. You may have to drain and reservice the coolant every couple years from now on, if the aluminum is “too far gone” - meaning the crusty junk will just continue to contaminate the coolant as it cannot be fully chemically removed from the porous cast aluminum and iron. The radiator is most likely ok since it is made of rolled sheet aluminum or brass/bronze instead of cast, but may become clogged during flushing, so use a block drain to get the heavy stuff. Sounds like she’s your baby and you want to treat her right.
 
moper said:
Sure woke my now ex-wife up. Plus it was on the approach to the Tappan Zee Bridge in NY coming home from Englishtown. I swapped the entire cooling system from my Cuda on the trailer into the truck and got it home to CT. Long day...
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I drove over that bridge during a family vacation coming back from Maine to PA a few years back, I remember getting stuck in 5 mph traffic and thinking "This would be one of THE WORST places to have a breakdown." I can only imagine how long that day was.
 
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