Yes, installing it in the line between master and dist block locks both fronts and works well.
One in and one out is what I used.
Here's how I did mine if you want to copy it, since it was so easy to do this way and works good.
I got a Jegs line lock kit and two steel 3/32 compression unions.
The compression unions have the same threads on the main body of the unions as the line lock has for the inlet and outlets, so removing the cap on one end of the union allows you to thread one end of the union directly into the line lock.
This allows cutting the brake line for the rear sump at the master cylinder (the front brakes) and routing the two ends into the compression fittings.
The problem with this, is that the threads on the compression unions are not a pipe thread (not tapered) so you must seal them.
Teflon tape could be used, but I opted for cleaning the threads of both peices with acetone and using just a little JB weld on the threads in the lock so that when the end of the union goes in it seals well. (actually I use a product by Loctite that sets up in 15 min) but performs just like the JB weld, and brake fluid won't touch it.
Once the line lock and unions were ready I just cut the brake tubing and carfully coaxed the line around to go into the union ends I filled the line lock cavity with fluid by connecting the bottom line first and leaving the top one loose and a couple of shallow pushes on the brakes till I got fluid with no air in it, then tightened down the top line.
Cool, no bleeding needed as my brakes felt exactly the same with the lock installed as they did before I started.
Next was wiring in the relay and light for the lock inside the car.
Now here's the deal about line locks.
They MUST have steel compression unions to be legal and safe, and eveything I have seen say's "Only steel unions will pass a tech inspection at a track" but apparently only if the inspector cares or notices.
The other legality is that if using a line lock on the street you MUST have brakelights when it is locked.
Now EVERYONE I have ever talked to about this say's that cutting into or re plumbing the front brakes line to install a pressure activated switch is the way this is commonly done. (Including the dealers that sell them)
This usually means either cutting into the line again, or swapping out the lines and fittings, then adding in the switch, tubing and wiring to make the brake lights come on when there is pressure in the front brake system.
I designed something that is now a product we will be selling as part of our classichei.com product line that changes that. (yes it is being patented
)
It uses the power supply to the line lock to electrically activate brake lights and eliminates having to do ANYTHING to the lines at all, and installes in 5 minutes.
It uses a wire from the power supply of the lock that has a diode inline. (basically a one way gate for electricity)
Power can flow to the brakelights when the lock is active, but cannot flow from the brakelights back to the lock when the pedal is pressed.
I have tested this setup for close to 9 months without a single glitch whatsoever.
Also IF the diode was to fail it can fail in two ways.
1. Open, to where the brakelights won't come on when the lock is active. (not a disaster)
2. Closed, where the power flows back to the lock and activates it when you push the brakes. (still not a disaster) as the lock will release when the brakes are released to the point the brakelights go off.
If the later were to happen (the worst of the two), your line lock light will come on when you press your brake pedal telling you that this failure exists.
We have this brake light/line lock wire kit available for $10 plus shipping.
It comes pre made and ready to install. (though I reccomend soldering the joints)
It also allows you to flash your brakelights in traffic via the lock switch, instead of having to touch your brake pedal.
Or, to activate brakelights and accelerate at the same time without dragging your brakes (If you can imagine why you would ever want to do that) :twisted:
The activation switch for the lock is on my shifter handle right next to my index finger, and the active light is on my guage pod on the dash.
Here's some pics of the install.
Boy, the forum sure messed that picture up.
