LOCK RIGHT

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jazak5

jazak5

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trying to find a reasonably priced 8 3/4 sure grip is really tough where I am at //they are gold !!
has anyone install a "lock right" in a open 8 3/4 741 case???
69 340 barracuda auto
they list a 1240-LR for my application
 
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Maybe if you were just racing it. I had put one in my amx and after awhile took it back out. The thing clicks like crazy around any tight corner to the point people ask if the rear was broken. When driving it coasting in the corner car would turn fine and soon as you apply power it locks up and car wants to push the turn like a spooled rear. Actually wore the front tires faster. Trying to pull out onto a road under power it would chirp the inside tire or try to lock and unlock. Made you not want to drive the car.

It did do great burn outs though. Donuts not so much unless you stayed in it, as soon as you'd lift it unlock and then bang hard when throttle applied again.
 
i have one in my 4 speed Valiant. The clicking noise is very loud. VERY LOUD. I just tell everyone its a locker. She will spin both tires no problem . Ive launched at the track with slicks on too and she works great. I would not buy another one
 
I have never ran one in my Race car but I have used one in my Jeep. Clicks around corners but doesn't bother me.
 
thanks I'll check but I didn't want to mess with bearings and ring pinion set up
 
jazak5 said:
thanks I'll check but I didn't want to mess with bearings and ring pinion set up
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I assume your responding to me. If so I don't understand what you mean about messing with ring and pinion setup cause swapping out a differential doesn't require that. Cass will even press the side bearings on for a very small fee. Only thing you'll need to do is measure the backlash before you take it apart and set it back to that when you install the new differential. You'd have to do that with any type of differential or even a spool
 
fishy68 said:
I assume your responding to me. If so I don't understand what you mean about messing with ring and pinion setup cause swapping out a differential doesn't require that. Cass will even press the side bearings on for a very small fee. Only thing you'll need to do is measure the backlash before you take it apart and set it back to that when you install the new differential. You'd have to do that with any type of differential or even a spool
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Measure when you take it apart to see where you are but you just reset it to spec. .008 to .010. On an 8.75 there are no shims just adjustment nuts you use a spanner wrench on. It is all done on a bench. Doesn't get much easier. Hardest part is removing the center section.
 
I ran a spool on the street. For like 2 or 3 weeks. Probably less. With 325DRs out back the lowspeed tire dance around corners was atrocious. With 295s, That was tolerable.
But the push in the corner with power applied,now reared it's very ugly head.

For a streeter,a well-set up SureGrip is hard to beat. With higher power the clutch type with 4 spiders will last forever. Well maybe not the clutches.
For most of us SBMers a well tuned cone-type, will, with good oil, last many thousands of miles. Just be sure to rebuild it at the very first hint of peg-legging.
I've never tried those drop-in devices.It always seemed to me that they would be very hard on the cross-pin, and more importantly the cross-pin saddles.When the saddles go, it's usually cheaper to replace the case, than to repair the saddles.
 
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340dartley said:
Measure when you take it apart to see where you are but you just reset it to spec. .008 to .010. On an 8.75 there are no shims just adjustment nuts you use a spanner wrench on. It is all done on a bench. Doesn't get much easier. Hardest part is removing the center section.
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So your saying that even if it measures .012 or .013" when you take it apart you set it to .008-.010"? If so that's a point of discussion. Most rearend tech's (me included) say set it back where it was so as to not disturb the pattern. Gears with miles on them will have a little wear so it's normal for the backlash to open up a little. If you only tighten them up .001-.002" it may not disturb it enough to be a problem but I've taken differentials apart with .013-.014" backlash that ran quiet going down the road. I'd be leary of tightening them up .005-.006".... Just my thoughts
 
fishy68 said:
So your saying that even if it measures .012 or .013" when you take it apart you set it to .008-.010"? If so that's a point of discussion. Most rearend tech's (me included) say set it back where it was so as to not disturb the pattern. Gears with miles on them will have a little wear so it's normal for the backlash to open up a little. If you only tighten them up .001-.002" it may not disturb it enough to be a problem but I've taken differentials apart with .013-.014" backlash that ran quiet going down the road. I'd be leary of tightening them up .005-.006".... Just my thoughts
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Nothing wrong with that if it works for you. I have been a profession mechanic for 25 or so years. I have learned that if you talk to 5 different mechanics you will get 5 different opinions on how to do different things. I have always used factory specs when setting them up. Old gears , new gears etc. I have never personally had a noise come from a set up that was not already there. I have set up more axles than I can remember. In all honesty I do not think that tightening it up .004 to .006 if it was slightly loose will make any noise. On the other hand too loose will definitely make noise. If you take it apart and it is way out of spec say .025 or more. I would drop it where it is supposed to be and run it. Just my opinion.
 
Also to be honest I really only bust out the dial indicator if I am worried. Most of the time I do it by feel anyway.
 
Not really giving it away . You still have to have the experience to know what feels good and what doesnt.
 
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