Look what arrived from the mail today...

-
Much easier!Pull the obvious,loosen the center brace.It's a tight fit,but will go (remember my first post?)Keep it cool.
 
dodge freak said:
I would loose the motor mounts so the engine can be lifted a bit. Once lifted a ways the motor can be rock side to side, just make sure the jack is on the crank pulley good....If you can get to it. Sometimes a block of wood helps
Click to expand...

and risk bending, warping, or any other damage to the crank snout or dampener/pulley...
 
805moparkid said:
and risk bending, warping, or any other damage to the crank snout or dampener/pulley...
Click to expand...

I wouldnt lift from the pulley for that same reason. I either lifted from the oil pan or where the transmission and motor bolt together with a block of wood between the car and the jack.
 
72DartCustom said:
Yeah, to think I was considering a cam swap done by myself as well. HA! Id rather have someone else do that headache.
Click to expand...
You like picking the time consumsing projects.Cam is fairly basic with alot of bolts to pull out.If you car has a/c the condensor will be a problem.But you can do it.
 
805moparkid said:
and risk bending, warping, or any other damage to the crank snout or dampener/pulley...
Click to expand...
The risk is there but you stand a bigger risk of collapseing the oil pan.I've never jacked an engine up useing the crankshift but only because its round and seems like it want to roll off easier.
 
But seriously if you were going to do a cam and headers you should have pulled the motor.about 10 more bolts than what you already pulled out.
 
mopar410 said:
But seriously if you were going to do a cam and headers you should have pulled the motor.about 10 more bolts than what you already pulled out.
Click to expand...

But im not doing a cam, Im installing headers only. I was thinking of doing a cam later. But im not.
 
Im having all sorts of trouble on the drivers side..I have the steering linkages off and out of the way, the starter is removed and the engine is up as high as it will go. Ive done everything the directions told me and the header will not go through the bottom or the top, it goes in half way. Im in the process of taking my steering unit off, ive gotten all the bolts off. How do I take it out? Or what do you think I should do?
 
72DartCustom said:
Im having all sorts of trouble on the drivers side..I have the steering linkages off and out of the way, the starter is removed and the engine is up as high as it will go. Ive done everything the directions told me and the header will not go through the bottom or the top, it goes in half way. Im in the process of taking my steering unit off, ive gotten all the bolts off. How do I take it out? Or what do you think I should do?
Click to expand...

Its hard to say without being there in person. I have never heard of anyone removing the steering unit off to the get the headers on. I installed a set on a 68 Charger with a big block and didn't have to take it out. Compared to a A-body that was not much room at all.
 
I got the headers all done and in now. No leaks anywhere. Sounds great! I tried recording it but it sounded crappy on the camera. The car is at the exhaust shop to get all welded up. :happy3:
 
glad to here it worked out are you hearing any noise from the headers hitting anything you probably will be able to here it better once exhaust is on the car
 
mopardrt said:
glad to here it worked out are you hearing any noise from the headers hitting anything you probably will be able to here it better once exhaust is on the car
Click to expand...

The headers dont hit anything. They clear the body and other suspension parts. Just the sound of the motor. Although I did drive the car uncorked to the shop, I can already tell the difference in power. It runs much smoother as well. Those manifolds must have been really constrictive running with that 4bbl.
 
72DartCustom said:
The headers dont hit anything. They clear the body and other suspension parts. Just the sound of the motor. Although I did drive the car uncorked to the shop, I can already tell the difference in power. It runs much smoother as well. Those manifolds must have been really constrictive running with that 4bbl.
Click to expand...

Just be careful when going over speed bumps. You may need to test a few to see how much clearance you have underneath.

I had the same kind of headers on my Duster, speed bumps were my number one enemy. Nothing worse than hearing that "clang" sound while going over one.
 
OK your moving forward,now you may have to do a jet change,also with headers wide open ya it will be way better but once yo restrict it with mufflers and hopefully the shop wont under size you pipes that increase will be lesssss some what.
 
Pul-eeze, pretty pul-eeze, with sugar on top. Can we see some pics:cheers:
C
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top