Looking for correct bulbs for 1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 for Instrument Cluster

[Maddog55]

My cluster panel lights have not been working. Bought the car over a year ago, and other owners obviously did all sorts of work. Fuses are all in order. I pulled the cluster yesterday and took out the bulbs. 5 out of 6 were 194. One was a 158.

Did the prior owners put in an incompatible bulb? Or would a 194 work? I’m looking to replace all the bulbs with LED versions but want to make sure I’m getting the right ones since LED ones are so expensive.

I found this chart online this morning, but want to be sure.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Mymopar.com

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From googling...

194 is a higher wattage version of the 158.

158 about 3.3W
194 about 3.8W

Higher wattage = more current and more heat.

IMHO

If you can get the 158 that is what I would stick with.

I have melted lenses using higher wattage bulbs

 

[Maddog55]

I would think with the LED’s that they wouldn’t get hotter than the standard OEM bulbs. Correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[Professor Fate]

My cluster panel lights have not been working. Bought the car over a year ago, and other owners obviously did all sorts of work. Fuses are all in order. I pulled the cluster yesterday and took out the bulbs. 5 out of 6 were 194. One was a 158.

Did the prior owners put in an incompatible bulb? Or would a 194 work? I’m looking to replace all the bulbs with LED versions but want to make sure I’m getting the right ones since LED ones are so expensive.

I found this chart online this morning, but want to be sure.

View attachment 1716326855

Before you get into swapping bulbs around, figure out why your panel isn't lighting up. If the bulbs are good and it isn't working, swapping to LEDs isn't going to change a darned thing. Make sure the panel is grounded and start tracing current paths and testing components. (are you sure the panel dimmer isn't just turned all the way down?)
Once everything is working correctly, and if you still feel the need to switch to LEDs, be aware that you'll open another can of worms. Most LEDs have a polarity, and must be installed in the correct orientation in order for them to work. The instrument lights need to be dimmable, and the turn signal indicators and hazard lights (if so equipped) will require the use of electronic flashers with dedicated grounds if you intend to also use LEDs for your outside lights... lots of threads on this, do a search. It isn't just a matter of swapping bulbs.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Depends on the LED.

Some have resisters that burn off the excess wattage. Others use electronics to switch the voltage on and off in a duty cycle.

Some are dimmable some are not.

The 158s in most cases have lasted 50+ years but LEDs while better now might not (regardless of their claims) how much do you like taking your cluster out?

 

[67Dart273]

^^Not only this above, but some LEDs won't dim properly in a cluster because they do not draw enough current. The dimmer is a simple variable resistor, known as a rheostat. The operation of it requires a certain "in range" load on it. EG if you were to go through the car and remove all the panel lights controlled by the dimmer, and put just one back in, the dimmer may not work well because of the reduced load

Another general issue with automotive style LEDs is that the light pattern simply just is not right. This is a big problem in tail/ park lights and reverse lights. Add that to the "china quality" issue.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I replaced the two cluster lighting bulbs in my 64 with ZEVO LEDs about four years ago. They don't dim, but I don't care. I can actually SEE my gauges at night. Nothing melted in all that time so I think I'm good. lol Also, sometimes you cannot use LEDs in the turn signal indicators.