Looking to get front end weight down.
- Thread starter MOPARMAGA
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Yeah, those will be down the road. It seems like I added 50 pounds by switching to a factory disc set up
justinp61
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My Strange brakes were just a touch over 50 pounds lighter than the 73 and up disk set up. The fiberglass bumper saved 21#, bolt on hinged fiberglass 6 pack hood saved 31# and I lightened the factory bumper brackets by 5#. Aluminum strut rods save a few pounds too.
My street/strip Dart is a pig, 3292# with me race ready.
Jeremiah (jd)
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The least expensive wat to lighten up factory brakes is the former AR Engineering, now Dr. Diff wilwood dynalite caliper adapter.
I just swapped out an aluminum radiator for the OEM unit and that is significant. I can lift the AL radiator with the shroud and fans into the car with one hand.
Hole sawing the bumper brackets takes out a big of weight and is not costly if you have the tools.
I always wondered if taking the inner fender wells out of any car of this era did to the underbody aerodynamics. I do agree that the frame needs to be tied to the main cage structure however those bars can be run outside of the wheel well so they don't clutter up the engine bay. It's easy to build some outriggers in the wheel well if you have some 2x3 box tubing. Also, there is a place called (Doug) Winslow racing that lays up inner fender splash shields in carbon fiber. They are $300 or so last time I checked however the craftsmanship is very nice.
Otherwise for low buck weight removal you are drilling holes and looking for brackets that can be inexpensively and safely replicated in aluminum.
I just swapped out an aluminum radiator for the OEM unit and that is significant. I can lift the AL radiator with the shroud and fans into the car with one hand.
Hole sawing the bumper brackets takes out a big of weight and is not costly if you have the tools.
I always wondered if taking the inner fender wells out of any car of this era did to the underbody aerodynamics. I do agree that the frame needs to be tied to the main cage structure however those bars can be run outside of the wheel well so they don't clutter up the engine bay. It's easy to build some outriggers in the wheel well if you have some 2x3 box tubing. Also, there is a place called (Doug) Winslow racing that lays up inner fender splash shields in carbon fiber. They are $300 or so last time I checked however the craftsmanship is very nice.
Otherwise for low buck weight removal you are drilling holes and looking for brackets that can be inexpensively and safely replicated in aluminum.
Jeremiah (jd)
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That's pretty darn good with a cage and a Dana.
My GTS (no carpet/heater/console, iron B block/heads/manifolds/steel wheels) is 3323/3515 without/with driver.
justinp61
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It's only got a 6 point bar, but it also has the heater, wipers, vent boxes, rear seat, radio, carpet with insulation, map light and trunk light, heck even the reminder buzzer for the lights still work, LOL. It also has a heavy azz R1 block.
It's a pretty decent old car and I'm not gutting or cutting it any more.
Jeremiah (jd)
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It's only got a 6 point bar, but it also has the heater, wipers, vent boxes, rear seat, radio, carpet with insulation, map light and trunk light, heck even the reminder buzzer for the lights still work, LOL. It also has a heavy azz R1 block.
It's a pretty decent old car and I'm not gutting or cutting it any more.
Definitely one of my favorite street strip cars out there.
I also have the factory radio, buckets and and eight track player. Needed heater blower motor hole for nitrous system lines and all the wiring : D
Sorry we aren't closer as I'd like to see it run!
RockinRobin
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Do you still have the glass windshield and door glass? 1/8" Lexan or equiv. is all you need and will cut quite a bit of weight. Mount the door glass permanently and get rid of the window regulators and channels. You can get windshield and 2 door windows out of 1 4'x8' sheet.
Cool, that's a great idea. Thank you
eeka440
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AMD inner fenders are 15lbs. each.
They are 21 gauge steel.
The factory ones are probably thicker.
I just drilled the spot welds out. You should leave the fender mounting flange intact if you can.
They are 21 gauge steel.
The factory ones are probably thicker.
I just drilled the spot welds out. You should leave the fender mounting flange intact if you can.
33IMP
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How is that possible to be that light, and still that nose heavy?
Oh wait, mine is the same way. Tiny car, iron head big block.
Cool, thanks for the tip
That's is an interesting thought about under hood aerodynamics.
33IMP
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With no inner fenders, I will bet a fan shroud is mandatory.
And you could do what I do. I haven't yet cut up my hood for carb and valve cover clearance, so i run without one. Arizona doesn't care, but nhra requires an air cleaner if you run without a hood.
justinp61
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I have a fiberglass front bumper, here's what I did to the brackets. What you see in the photos took 5.6lbs out of the brackets. I have since removed the outer brackets.
I wouldn't worry about under hood aerodynamics from removing the inner fenders, there are thousands of Mopars at the strip every weekend without them.
I wouldn't worry about under hood aerodynamics from removing the inner fenders, there are thousands of Mopars at the strip every weekend without them.
Cool, nice job on the brackets
Yeah, I suppose I'll have to talk with the tech guys at the track.
I bought a lithium battery for $600. Not cheap, but dropped 28 lbs off the nose. Add in the weight of cables for a trunk mounted battery that you don't need, calculate the costs for a regular battery plus cables and trunk mount, cutoff switch, and its fairly cheap .
Well, I didn't really lighten up the front end but I spent the weekend pulling the front end off & scraping off the under coating, there was very light surface rust behind the fenders that I wire wheeled back to shiny bare metal, I have the passenger side fender well to do next weekend. I do think I'll leave the inner fenderwells for now.
Anyhow, that's the update for now. Thanks guys !
Korie
Anyhow, that's the update for now. Thanks guys !
Korie
Do you mind sharing what company and specs you bought, you make a good point about just leaving the battery in the front.
33IMP
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Agree. Both of mine are in the back, but if I had todo it over......
$250-300 for an optima, $50-100 for good cables, (I used welding cable, but the insulation doesn't last.) $50 for the shutoff, $100 for the relay to make the shutoff work right, (bought the wrong shut off, should have got the two circuit) battery box, etc.
The only advantage is the weight in the back of the car, if needed.
justinp61
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I moved the battery to the trunk on my Dart, battery box, disconnect, relays, solenoid and the wire. No changes in the et anywhere, and it still spins at the same tracks, but it does start better. I could've saved all the work and money and just made a new 3' cable and have the same result. LOL
Dakota Lithium. 60 ah alternater compatable, 60 amp max charge rate. Comes with a 10 amp charger. Haven't used it yet, but going in for this season.
Between that weight savings, 105 lb lighter block, no hood (20) and driver diet looking to run 8.40 at 158
Great, thanks for the info & are you running a BMP block or Indy aluminum ?
I found out that is a really weak strip of metal this weekend, I had 2 bolts lock up from rust & the clips tore right through.
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