What does the car weigh? Are the rear shocks double adjustable or a 9 way? If you have the rear shocks set to almost the softest setting on compression you are letting the tire push the rear axle up, and the therefore unloading the tire. If you have a DA shock in the rear, loosen up the rebound (extension) until it hits the tire too hard and then go the other way a couple of clicks at a time until it settles down. Of course, you can also stiffen the bump (compression) some to keep the tire planted before adding rebound once you have it hitting the tire too hard. The position of the bars relative to the center of gravity is important, but so is the angle of the bars. If you have the bars running down hill, the tire will get hit slower and stay planted longer. If the bar is running up hill, it will hit the tire harder and then unload it sooner. So bar position makes a difference in what the tire sees at the hit. I goes without saying (but I’m going to say it anyway) any time you change the bar position you will have to go back through your shock settings. And then you have to tune the front shocks while your at it. If the front of the car is coming up too quick it can hit the bump stops, and that can upset the chassis and make the rear tire unhook. If it’s too slow, then you won’t get any pitch rotation and the added tire loading at the rear tires. So tuning the shocks requires tuning both ends together. It’s a time consuming but the end results can be impressive. That’s why double adjustable shocks are tuning gold. Any time you can separate bump and rebound it makes tuning the chassis much easier.Also, it’s better to use a lower spring rate up front (a smaller torsion bar) and use your to control the front end than to over spring the front and make the front shock less effective. Stored energy in the front springs goes a long way to getting the car to hook. And to help lower vehicle reaction time.
