Low money 360 any ideas

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budgetcummins

budgetcummins

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So just got a 74 swinger with org 318 (alum. intake elb. 4bbl) 727, and 7 1/4 rear. so i have most of my extra cash tied up in full floor pans, interior, and fixing the paint on top of the car. But manged to pick a running 72 2bbl 360 with 55k on it ($200). any ideas where to spend $500 to get the most power i can. I already have plans for a dana 60 out of different budget
 
You already have the intake, what is it?

What is the carb?

If those are decent, throw a better cam, valve springs, locks, retainers and a double roller timing chain in it (250 - 300).

And if you have enough, a cheap set of Summit headers, they aren't the best fitment, but they do work.
 
Whats your realistic intent for the car? Street cruizer? Drag Racer? Road Racer? Get way car?
 
budgetcummins said:
So just got a 74 swinger with org 318 (alum. intake elb. 4bbl) 727, and 7 1/4 rear. so i have most of my extra cash tied up in full floor pans, interior, and fixing the paint on top of the car. But manged to pick a running 72 2bbl 360 with 55k on it ($200). any ideas where to spend $500 to get the most power i can. I already have plans for a dana 60 out of different budget
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If the short block is in good shape, headers, 340 style cam ( look at Summit's house brand grinds) new valve springs & a good timing chain . Some 1121 Mr.Gasket head gaskets bumps compression, slightly. Let's disassemble it, see what you have to work with. Closer to stock, is obviously cheaper. What intake, do you have?
 
a friend of mine thinks he has a cam out of a 340 that i can use. i need to look at the intake and carb to see what they are, really havent paid any attention to them yet (stupid of me)
 
At 55k I would imagine it has the factory 252 cam still in it. They idled nice, but lift was only .410/.412. Too much low end for your taste I'm sure. Summit is a good idea for a cam, very affordable.
 
So a street strip car. Are you going to put a converter in it? Gears?

Honestly I'd tear it apart, evaluate what you have and build what you want the first time for your intended use. What is wrong with the 318?
 
DANA 60???...better be a BIG budget!!!

..you don't need a Dana with a budget 360....an 8.75, or 8.25 will be just fine...and a BUNCH cheaper.
 
I am going to use a converter probably b&m , not sure about gears yet going to buy a dana 60 from an 80s truck and cut it down, 318 is a big tard nothing new. Just tryin to get body and interior done and still be able to have fun with the car. It has a dual snorkel hood and everytime someone sees it they ask how fast is it ( slow ).
 
Engine Performance is won or lost off of these key components in addition to your 4bbl: Heads, cam, and exhaust. These are more important than cubic inches. This is why you will sometimes see a 340 duster beat a 440 duster, even though it gives up 100 cubic inches. Great heads, cam, intake and exhaust that MATCH each other (to work properly), and backed by the RIGHT converter and gears, it is amazing what you can accomplish. The extra cubes is a great compliment and help tons, but the extra cubes are not there to make up the difference of ones bad decisions. Only you know exactly what the car will be used for. examples: mostly dragway and very little street use or mostly street use and very little dragway. AND, what type of street use. Going 40 mph through city streets, or 70 mph for hours on the interstate. When you can properly identify what the cars purpose will be, then you can build to accomplish your needs. Remember, big cams, high stall converters, and steep gears make terrible highway cars, but very good E.T. times at the strip. Big cams, high flow heads and single plane intakes hate tight stall converters and 2.76 gears. If you don't match your combo correctly, you will not be happy, especially when a 318 dart beats ya.... lol
 
The latest one is P4452782AC

Although I don't see it available anywhere. That's insane. The 340 cam has been available for 46 years. I cannot imagine it becoming discontinued. Crap like this makes me almost want to go to Chevy.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The latest one is P4452782AC

Although I don't see it available anywhere. That's insane. The 340 cam has been available for 46 years. I cannot imagine it becoming discontinued. Crap like this makes me almost want to go to Chevy.
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That cam is around 20* longer duration at .050 than the original 340 cams. They could be listing that .85 of advertised on it.
 
That's the right number and cam. There is no MP cam with those listed specs. Look at the lift. It's the right cam. I am not sure I have ever seen two different sources list the specs the same in my life.
 
Mopar should market a "Duration Dartboard" :)

Correct lift, Correct advertised Dur, way off in the summit listing for at .050 228/234 Should be around 208/214 IIRC. The old 214/224 grind is a step up from the original 340 cam.

I'd look there, a 262 XE or voodoo, or something cut on a tigher LSA and install it ahead to get cylinder pressure up
 
crackedback said:
Mopar should market a "Duration Dartboard" :)

Correct lift, Correct advertised Dur, way off in the summit listing for at .050 228/234 Should be around 208/214 IIRC. The old 214/224 grind is a step up from the original 340 cam.

I'd look there, a 262 XE or voodoo, or something cut on a tigher LSA and install it ahead to get cylinder pressure up
Click to expand...

I agree with you! BUT, I have even seen that part number(s) list duration @ .050 at 218 and 241! The Victory pages has it probably real close at like 204 and I think 214 or so? Sumffin like that.
 
To the OE poster.
What gears do you plan to run?
What size tire? (Not rim size)
Mancini racing .com has the thin MoPar head gasket. Run that.
 
Sounds to me like you are guessing at your starting point.
Figure out what you really have,make a plan and go from there.

Just my humble opinion...
 
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