Lower ball joint to Spindle bolts stuck

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65Vart

65Vart

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I’m doing a drum to disc conversion. I’ve tried to loosen this lower ball joint bolt with everything short of heat. Won’t budge.
Any tips, these lowers are also 1/2 inch bolts. ?

3A97628C-106B-46BF-9D0F-C002D036A5A4.jpeg
 
Looks like if you put a six-point closed end wrench on it and use a floor jack on it, 'jack upward with wrench at 3 oclock' it should come loose.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Looks like if you put a six-point closed end wrench on it and use a floor jack on it, 'jack upward with wrench at 3 oclock' it should come loose
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Watch that you don't lift the car off of the jack stands

Poor man's cheater bar...

Take the upper half of the jack handle off and use it on a 1/2 inch or better yet 3/4 breaker bar.

Your parts don't look all rusted., That's a good thing
 
Soak it with Kroil
Hit it a couple time with a ball pean
Come back tomorrow with a cheater pipe and a breaker bar
 
It looks to me that someone put a grade #8 bolt in there. I have seen this before where the shoulder of the bolt was run into the threads with an impact and stuck fast. Go get yourself a cordless dewalt 1/2 impact gun. Sure to take it out. The strongest impact gun I ever owned
 
Oldmanmopar said:
It looks to me that someone put a grade #8 bolt in there. I have seen this before where the shoulder of the bolt was run into the threads with an impact and stuck fast. Go get yourself a cordless dewalt 1/2 impact gun. Sure to take it out. The strongest impact gun I ever owned
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Threads? I might be wrong but the ball joint assembly should not be threaded. Can anyone confirm?
 
Another thing you can try...

Put a nut on the bolt and semilightly smack it while turning the bolt head.

If what oldmanmopar said is what happened the shank of the bolt might have gotten press fitted into the ball joint.

I thought I saw that 6 cyl drum brakes bolted the ball joint into the spindle rather than clamping the ball joint to the spindle with a nut,
 
is the shock off and the t-bars are wound down? as in, is there any tension on any of the parts? because if there is it'll bind it all up.

but 2nd on throwing a nut over those threads and giving it a few love taps.
 
BTW what are you working on
What modifications to the front suspension
 
65Vart said:
Threads? I might be wrong but the ball joint assembly should not be threaded. Can anyone confirm?
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I was not talking about the ball joint. I have seen the shoulder on the shank of the bolt to long on those non factory gold grade 8 bolts. Longer then the ball joint is thick. So when tightening the bolt the shank sticks through the ball joint and gouges and squeezes its way into the threads of the spindle. I don't see washers on the gold bolts. The factory bolts have a shorter shoulder on the shank of the bolt then the gold grade #8 over the counter bolts. Just something I ran into myself in the past.

A good strong impact gun should hammer it loose as it was probably install the same way.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I was not talking about the ball joint. I have seen the shoulder on the shank of the bolt to long on those non factory gold grade 8 bolts. Longer then the ball joint is thick. So when tightening the bolt the shank sticks through the ball joint and gouges and squeezes its way into the threads of the spindle. I don't see washers on the gold bolts. The factory bolts have a shorter shoulder on the shank of the bolt then the gold grade #8 over the counter bolts. Just something I ran into myself in the past.

A good strong impact gun should hammer it loose as it was probably install the same way.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, no threads on the spindle either, it’s a straight thru with nut on the face of the mounting surface securing the drum away.
 
junkyardhero said:
is the shock off and the t-bars are wound down? as in, is there any tension on any of the parts? because if there is it'll bind it all up.

but 2nd on throwing a nut over those threads and giving it a few love taps.
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LCA supported with a floor Jack so should be good.
 
This guy comes on here asking how to turn a bolt loose...so we offer advice and then some humor and OP hits the X like an ungrateful stiff. Complete jerk.

I'm putting the op on ignore and I'll never answer any of his fking questions again, fk him.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
This guy comes on here asking how to turn a bolt loose...so we offer advice and then some humor and OP hits the X like an ungrateful stiff. Complete jerk.

I'm putting the op on ignore and I'll never answer any of his fking questions again, fk him.
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@MOPAROFFICIAL I have great respect for your knowledge but you disagreeing with all the OPs posts is a bit childish.

Did you ask him why he disagreed? Perhaps he just hit it by mistake.

In my world hitting disagree is useless unless you add a post with the reason you disagree. Frankly the disagree button should not be an option.
 
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So you have a form of KH brake swap.


From their instruction manual.

"This kits is designed to fit cars with 5-lug wheels with a 5x4-1/2” bolt pattern. The car must have been factory equipped with 10” brake drums in order for the kit to fit correctly"

was your car originally front 10 inch drum or did it have the propper components swapped in?
 
From looking at the install instructions.

It looks like Oldmanmopar has hit on the trouble.

The instructions say to use the origional bolt or bolt and nut from the 10 inch drum brakes. The bolt in question looks to be not an OEM bolt. I suspect the bolt is just press fit into the spindle.

The FSM shows bolts with nuts holding the lower ball joint to the spindle and the nuts face the drum.

You could try a the same technique to remove a tie rod end. Apply pressure to the bolt, and tap the side of the spindle where the nut goes through.

I know you tried heat but if you apply it localized to the spindle where the bolt goes through that can help too.

Push comes to shove. Drill out the bolt and go from there
 
Dana67Dart said:
So you have a form of KH brake swap.


From their instruction manual.

"This kits is designed to fit cars with 5-lug wheels with a 5x4-1/2” bolt pattern. The car must have been factory equipped with 10” brake drums in order for the kit to fit correctly"

was your car originally front 10 inch drum or did it have the propper components swapped in?
Click to expand...
yes, 68 GTS 10" Drum Spindles
 
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