Lower control arm outer bushing shell removal frustration...

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jtolbert

jtolbert

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So I tried welding a washer to the outer bushing shell and pressing it out...Twice. Both times the welds pulled chunks of the bushing shell off with the welds, so now there's not much of a rim left to weld to. :wack: Any other suggestions? How thick is the metal in the walls of the bushing shell?
 
You could drive a keen chisel underneath them or split them with an air chisel.
 
I used a reciprocating saw to cut a seam in the outer bushing shell. I know it's dangerous and can leave a groove in the outer bushing surface on the LCA if you are not careful, but I took my time and it worked for me. Once you have a deep enough groove, it is easy to use pliers/chisels to collapse the bushing shell in on itself.

Pictures would probably help us devise a better strategy though. Good luck!
 
jtolbert said:
So I tried welding a washer to the outer bushing shell and pressing it out...Twice. Both times the welds pulled chunks of the bushing shell off with the welds, so now there's not much of a rim left to weld to. :wack: Any other suggestions? How thick is the metal in the walls of the bushing shell?
Click to expand...

If you can find a washer to fit down inside, just weld to the wall of the shell, its probably about 18 gauge thickness. You could tack a piece of coathanger to the edge of the washer and lower it in just below the rim .
 
mopardude318: how does the outer bushing shell removal tool work? Also, the second link you posted is for the upper bushing removal tool...You need both of them to get the lower outer bushing shell out? Thanks!
 
Put the washer inside the shell of the LCA bushing outer housing. Then take an air chisel and fold over the outer edges of the lca bushing shell (the lip that keeps the bushing from pressing all the way thru the lca) in towards the center of the shell, thereby capturing the the washer. Then you can press it out, and you don't ruin the washer by welding on it. Splitting the shell with a sawzall works, too.
 
Did one a while back and had the same problem ,I found the shell , I had welded in a large nut . Used a bolt screwed in it while I tacked it in and then tacked it in several spots down inside , worked well. You can see in the pic that it ripped off the rim like yours did on the first attempt, the other bushing came out fine that way.
 

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Back in the early 1960's when Chrysler invented these suspensions on their line of cars, the factory maintenance manuals had you use a 1 3/8 inch tap screwed into the bushing shell, to then press it out.
I use one of these big taps all the time in my suspension rebuilding business, and also that American Muscle Tool Co, remover tool another poster wrote about.
Both of these methods work well, along with the welded washer method.
I don't own a welder, so i can't use that method.
Whatever works for you, go for it.
If you had to go and buy a 1 3/8 tap now-a-days its gonna cost you some big $$$$$$$ to get one.

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My friend torched it out by cutting a slit in bushing shell. Came out quickly but he's been doing this for over 30 years.
 
I have a steel dowel that fits snug in the shell. The weld has to be good. Then I use a cutoff tool to cut the weld so that I can reuse the dowel. I like the idea of the tap because it would be faster.
 
Ha, I like the idea of the 1-3/8" tap. Do you press the tap out directly? Finding a 1-3/8" bolt probably wouldn't be exactly trivial or cheap, either...

I may just try chiseling/air-hammering it out. I'm nervous about welding the bushing shell itself to the LCA by welding inside.
 
Found a new Champion 1-3/8-6 plug tap for $30.95 shipped on eBay. Worth a shot. :)
 
do any of you have an recycle tool store from big industry? In Wichita we have a place called the yard, it sells obsolete aircraft tools & all kinds of other stuff .

I bought my 1 3/8 nf12 tap for less than $10--
place a thick washer in before tapping-- or you might chip the tap!!

I've also found it is easier to place the tap in a vise & thread the lca on it. Lawrence

ps- this info came from my 1962 service manual.
 
If you use a tap you need to use a press also. Never hit a tap with a hammer.

I think a lot of do it yourselfers are worried they will mark the bore with their chisel or other cutter. A little scar in that bore wont hurt anything.
 
IMG_2579.jpg


Look, ma, no outer bushing shells! :) The tap method worked perfectly. The arms are still covered in Kroil, but I'm going to blast them anyway.

Thanks for the advice, especially hemi71x's tip on the tap.
 
Look, ma, no outer bushing shells! :) The tap method worked perfectly. The arms are still covered in Kroil, but I'm going to blast them anyway.

Thanks for the advice, especially hemi71x's tip on the tap.[/QUOTE]

Josh.
Glad to pass along the advice on the 1 3/8 tap method, in the removal of the bushing shell in the LCA.
Happy to hear that it worked well for you.

I know i sold you some spindles in the past, and at one time or another you were interested in a pair of rebuilt LCA's that i was advertising for sale.

Your project seems to be moving along, so good luck to you, with the rest of it.
Jim V.
 
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