Lower control arm question

-
S

steelwheels

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2023
Messages
11
Reaction score
8
Location
Arizona
Hi everyone. Sorry if this is a redundant question but I couldn't find anything. It may be a dumb question lol! I'm rebuilding the suspension on my duster. I removed the lower control arms and removed the pivot pins. They pressed out without issue and the bushings were old but not in horrible shape. I've watched a bunch of videos on how to remove the outer shell from the lower control arm. It seems there's only two options: weld a washer to the cups and press them or chisel them out.

Here's my question: if the outer shell looks good, do you have to remove them?

...not the best pic but the insides aren't scratched or scored. Still in the cleanup process...0

Any advice is greatly appreciated

20231222_101640.jpg
 
It will depend on if you're using poly bushings to replace the old rubber one's. If using poly you leave the old shells in, using rubber you must remove them. 65'
 
It totally depends on the type bushing used. @BergmanAutoCraft sells Delrin bushings with custom pins that go with them. They do not use the outer bushing shells, so you remove those and press the bushings directly into the control arm. Most polyurethane bushings require the shells to be left in. When using factory style replacement rubber bushings, the old shells must be removed. I use an air chisel, but I'm good with it. I keep the chisel SHARP and have been doing it for better than forty years, so I don't damage anything but the bushing shell. The other two methods you mentioned work well, too.
 
steelwheels said:
Hi everyone. Sorry if this is a redundant question but I couldn't find anything. It may be a dumb question lol! I'm rebuilding the suspension on my duster. I removed the lower control arms and removed the pivot pins. They pressed out without issue and the bushings were old but not in horrible shape. I've watched a bunch of videos on how to remove the outer shell from the lower control arm. It seems there's only two options: weld a washer to the cups and press them or chisel them out.

Here's my question: if the outer shell looks good, do you have to remove them?

...not the best pic but the insides aren't scratched or scored. Still in the cleanup process...0

Any advice is greatly appreciated

View attachment 1716183640
Click to expand...
There's a third option when removing the outer shell. Use a tap the right size....IIRC it's a 1 3/8"....thread it in, and press it and the shell out.
 
When pressing in the new bushing, are you supposed to put a little grease on the shell before pressing. I think the FSM says no grease on the rubber part but what about the metal to metal parts?
 
shep76 said:
When pressing in the new bushing, are you supposed to put a little grease on the shell before pressing. I think the FSM says no grease on the rubber part but what about the metal to metal parts?
Click to expand...
I always grease the outer shell of the bushing and the inner hole of the control arm.
 
shep76 said:
When pressing in the new bushing, are you supposed to put a little grease on the shell before pressing. I think the FSM says no grease on the rubber part but what about the metal to metal parts?
Click to expand...

You're talking about a standard rubber bushing with the metal outer shell? Or something else?

I ask because you added onto a thread where the original poster was installing poly bushings, and the process is very different...
 
Yes, sorry. I probably should have created another thread. Just regular old rubber bushings.
 
shep76 said:
When pressing in the new bushing, are you supposed to put a little grease on the shell before pressing. I think the FSM says no grease on the rubber part but what about the metal to metal parts?
Click to expand...
i put a little slippery stuff on the the metal to metal parts. inspect and test fit everything first, it would suck to get a bushing in and then learn that the pin hole is all sloppy AF. go slow and steady and try to avoid using the threaded end of the pin as a press point, it'll F out the threads and likely the pin will go in cocked and you'll get to buy a new bushing and do it all again.
 
Got it. Thank you. I’m going slow… may still screw something up. Thanks for the tip, I didn’t think to check the pin in the k-frame for sloppiness. I suppose that’s why most people buy new pins when they do this?
 
Last edited:
shep76 said:
Got it. Thank you. I’m going slow… may still screw something up. Thanks for the tip, I didn’t think to check the pin in the k-frame for sloppiness. I suppose that’s why most people buy new pins when they do this?
Click to expand...
pin in the bushing. there's been some questionable parts floating around of late with moog being the most egregious of the suppliers. so mos def check them out.

if the pin fit on the K is all wobbly bobbly then you've got bigger issues.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top