Lucas oil additive good?

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tooslow

tooslow

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I always have shied away from additive's but the other day I was killing time at Autozone and I noticed the Lucas additive sticks to the gear assembly you rotate.
Does Lucas oil additive have any positive or negative effects?
thanks
 
What problems are you having that you think you need an additive?

Lucas makes fine products, but I would not use any additive without a need for them.
 
Lucas kind of tends to stay on the bearings longer. If you rarely start the engine you may see some cold start gains. It will always have a small benefit, but I doubt it will offset the cost. I use it in heavy trucks, but only after they have six or seven hundred thousand on them.
 
I've noticed that the little gear assembly isn't at all like the inside of most engines, and that making the oil stringy like that offers the opportunity to whip a lot of air into the oil. Air is a terrible lubricant.

I generally stay away from any product built and sold on marketing alone, like Lucas or Scamsoil.

We ran tests on our drag bike, And Royal Purple was by far the best, Scamsoil the worst, but Scamsoil paid so that's the sticker that went on the bike, even though RP was in the case.

Personally, I just use Mobil1. Good enough for OE, good enough for me!
 
An accumulator will do more for engine life than anything else.
 
I'm always leary about some of the "Snake oil" that is out there and what really works.That being said, I do use the Lucas brand of products. Their ethanol fuel treatment (green) has proven to me in all the carburetor engines that I have and have had trouble with before using it. Their fuel treatment has shown a increase in mileage and performance in our diesel tow rig that has logged 10's of thousands miles on cross country trips. The power steering fluid that is supposed to stop leaks, hasn't, is very thick,and used alone it sure don't like cold weather. The engine oil and tranny additive I really can't say if it has made a difference. These are just MY findings.Agree or disagree.Being a big fan of drag racing,
I will say the real reason that we use the Lucas products is the millions of dollars they spend in motorsports sponsorship yearly.And not only the big dollar Pros, but the little guys out there at the track.That is what I really like.Hell, Mrs Lucas races her own Super Comp dragster with the sportsman racers. Again that is my 2 cents.
 
jos51700 said:
I've noticed that the little gear assembly isn't at all like the inside of most engines, and that making the oil stringy like that offers the opportunity to whip a lot of air into the oil. Air is a terrible lubricant.

I generally stay away from any product built and sold on marketing alone, like Lucas or Scamsoil.

We ran tests on our drag bike, And Royal Purple was by far the best, Scamsoil the worst, but Scamsoil paid so that's the sticker that went on the bike, even though RP was in the case.

Personally, I just use Mobil1. Good enough for OE, good enough for me!
Click to expand...

Care to elaborate on these tests? Would love to know how your tests were performed and the results you saw.

For the record I'm being serious about this. The ONLY reason I'm an AMSOIL dealer is the fact that I use a lot of it. When got my first performance vehicle (RAM SRT-10) I looked around for the best oil and everything pointed to AMSOIL. After changing my truck over to AMSOIL I saw better gas mileage and the most noticeable to me was smoother shifts with the manual transmission. After that I became a preferred customer to reduce my personal costs. Some friends wanted to buy some AMSOIL so I decided to invest in being a dealer.

So just looking for the best protection for my cars and I felt AMSOIL did/does that. Looking forward to your test results.
 
My engine builder has always asked "are you a chemist"? "Then don't pretend to be one". "Run good oil and change it when it's due".
 
I say for the most part on a newer car Mobil 1 is hard to beat, for a car with flat tappets I and so many other guys I know run VR1 with no problems. Engine oil is probably the last place I would use an additive.
 
I have 2 Ford E350 Super duty work vans with the Triton V8 5.4 and both are passing 120,000 miles.
I want 300,000 out of them and I thought Lucas might help a high mileage engine,
I am a Curious cat.

So far the answer is :
Change the oil
 
I recently used Castrol HighMilage in my truck - I swear it is running better..
tooslow said:
I have 2 Ford E350 Super duty work vans with the Triton V8 5.4 and both are passing 120,000 miles.
I want 300,000 out of them and I thought Lucas might help a high mileage engine,
I am a Curious cat.

So far the answer is :
Change the oil
Click to expand...
 
tooslow said:
I have 2 Ford E350 Super duty work vans with the Triton V8 5.4 and both are passing 120,000 miles.
I want 300,000 out of them and I thought Lucas might help a high mileage engine,
I am a Curious cat.

So far the answer is :
Change the oil
Click to expand...

I get well over 300,000 on any engine...inline, v-6, v-8. Just take care of them. After that we give them to the kids to wreck. And this will not go over good, but I do it all with Fram and Wal-Mart oil.

I now use blends and synthetics since the price of oil got so high, leave it in twice as long and get the money back since I only need one filter instead of two.
 
I use lucas breakin additive for the zinc content I put in a few oz every oil change .
 
I use straight Castrol GTX in pretty much everything we have owned.

Never have blown or ruined anything from a lack of lube in ANYTHING we have had (bikes, cars, marine, and small engines)

87 Honda Accord 525,000.00 miles
86 Nissan truck 490,000.00 miles
82 Honda XR500R bike, who knows the miles on it but I tore it down for a refresh a few years ago and a mic was set at the factory bore spec (95mm or 3.740 inches )and would hang in the bore without being held.

The Lucas engine oil additive is just an STP style product coming around again.
It has it uses though like anything.
My neighbor had an engine with so many miles on it the lifters tapped at idle from low oil pressure.
He paid to have new lifters put in it twice before he told me about it (rip off or ignorant mechanic if you ask me)
I suggested he confirm what I thought of the ticking at idle with the additive and that stopped it.
The additive stopped the ticking purely from raising the oil viscosity.
 
I've used Valvoline in all my vehicles, since about 1980. I ran my '83 F-150, 300 6cyl, over 300,000 miles. My '95 F-150 (same engine) has over 200,000 miles. My '03 Monte Carlo has 200,000 miles. No problems. I do put about half a bottle of Lucas break in lube in my Sport when I change oil. It sits a lot, and I figure that to be cheap insurance.
 
i'd say using a GOOD engine oil and filter, changing at correct intervals, ...

ya ota see some slants and S B I've taken apart that were abused with paraffin based oils and way too long between changes!???? ha
 
charger426 said:
Care to elaborate on these tests? Would love to know how your tests were performed and the results you saw.

For the record I'm being serious about this. The ONLY reason I'm an AMSOIL dealer is the fact that I use a lot of it. When got my first performance vehicle (RAM SRT-10) I looked around for the best oil and everything pointed to AMSOIL. After changing my truck over to AMSOIL I saw better gas mileage and the most noticeable to me was smoother shifts with the manual transmission. After that I became a preferred customer to reduce my personal costs. Some friends wanted to buy some AMSOIL so I decided to invest in being a dealer.

So just looking for the best protection for my cars and I felt AMSOIL did/does that. Looking forward to your test results.
Click to expand...

We did a teardown after every weekend of track abuse. Motor was a HD VRSC pumping between 175-200 horsepower IIRC (It's been ten years). The bearing wear was dramatically less with RP, and the piston and bore wear was noticable with Amsoil (among others).

I don't buy Amsoil after I realized that they are simply multi-level marketers, that they never produce tests conducted by independent third party evaluators, and that they own, among a fertilizer and a supplement line (both are $hit, one literally, one figuratively), hmmm......an oil testing company?

Say it ain't so!

They produce case study after case study but never reveal who their evaluator is (sorry, that's not scientific and is unable to prove non-bias). Between that and the blatant marketing trash and involvement with completely unrelated side businesses, I just can't swallow their claims of "The first in synthetics" when synthetic motor oils were in heavy use by Germany by 1936 and Scamsoil didn't reach the market until ~'72-ish (At approximately the same time Mobil1 was released in Europe).

I've seen many an independent test involving many a manufacturer, but never one for Amsoil, and their marketing strategy discredits their validity.

That said, if you have any documented testing that isn't sponsored by Amsoil, I'd love to see it. I don't want to discredit anyone that doesn't deserve it, and it might be a great product. I'm only outlining why I won't touch it.
 

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Most oil additives are only temporary anyway and need to be re-added upon the next oil change. There are some instances when oil additives can be useful. If for instance, an engine is using oil or leaking, there are additives to help with that and save money for a while until someone can either save their money and do the proper repairs, or find another vehicle.

Also, for people who buy and sell cars through auctions, those additives can be very useful. Though their benefits tend to be temporary and in the case of the stop leak additives, in a short time the problem will become worse.

As said, the best thing to do is keep the oil changed.
 
72Valiant4Door said:
Restore brand restorer lubricant in the silver can has brought back a little compression for me before...
Click to expand...

That is one additive that I fully endorse. It WORKS. I have done several cars with that while cleaning the intake valley and valve cover areas from sludge and the end result was extremely favorable. But again, it has to be added with every oil change.
 
I have brought a couple of abused vehicles back to life with Restore. Slick 50...waste of money. STP...keep it on the track.
 
TrailBeast said:
I use straight Castrol GTX in pretty much everything we have owned.

Never have blown or ruined anything from a lack of lube in ANYTHING we have had (bikes, cars, marine, and small engines)

87 Honda Accord 525,000.00 miles
86 Nissan truck 490,000.00 miles
82 Honda XR500R bike, who knows the miles on it but I tore it down for a refresh a few years ago and a mic was set at the factory bore spec (95mm or 3.740 inches )and would hang in the bore without being held.

The Lucas engine oil additive is just an STP style product coming around again.
It has it uses though like anything.
My neighbor had an engine with so many miles on it the lifters tapped at idle from low oil pressure.
He paid to have new lifters put in it twice before he told me about it (rip off or ignorant mechanic if you ask me)
I suggested he confirm what I thought of the ticking at idle with the additive and that stopped it.
The additive stopped the ticking purely from raising the oil viscosity.
Click to expand...

STP= Stay Together Please!
 
If it was me, and I wanted to do a little something to a middle aged motor... I would run Marvel's mystery oil for 500 miles, with a quart of tranny fluid, then oil change with silver can Restore with a quality well rated oil and filter. The run all the following oil changes with restore.

The tranny fluid is a new thing for me... but I just did this regimen on the Valiant, pulling the valve covers, with each oil change, and testing compression each time.

The first cycle of marvel's and tranny fluid cleaned out a good bit of **** in the head. I cleaned out the oil pan, and pickup, replaced the oil pump, and related seals. Then I oil changed with good oil, restore, and a wix filter.

My oil pressure improved, my compression went up 5 psi on every cylinder and raised all 8 cylinders to be within +/- 3 psi of each other.
 
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