Lunati Cam

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MR4V

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Hi All

Thinking of a cam change and looking at this Lunati cam. Anyone run this one and what's it like?

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1540&gid=283

Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 282/282
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 255/255
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .582/.582
LSA/ICL: 108/102
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .016/.016
RPM Range: 3500-7200
Includes: Cam Only
Part Number: 30200913
Previous Part Number: 404A3LUN

At the same time porting the heads to suit the cam and getting a few more points of compression, changing to an Air gap with 830dp modified from Pro Systems.

Current combination is stroked 360 to 414, OOB Eddy heads, 9.8-1 comp, 528 Mopar cam, STR 12 inlet with 450dp Holley's, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear with 28" tyres.
Duster see's 50/50 street and strip use

Cheers
 
Tighten it up too .020/.022 or .022/.024

See if it makes any difference.
 
That cam won't pull to 7200 rpm in your 414 like the specifications say so don't expect that. They really shouldn't spec rpm ranges with cams cause engine size (along with induction flow) makes a huge difference in the range it'll work. My guess is it'd work just fine with the air gap cause it'll make peak HP around 6000-6200. On paper it looks to be a really aggressive cam so it should make good power. I haven't ran the 528 cam you have so I can't say how much difference their would be.
 
Tighten it up too .020/.022 or .022/.024

See if it makes any difference.

Thanks. We're going to do that and the Air Gap/Carb change to see how much of a difference that makes.

That cam won't pull to 7200 rpm in your 414 like the specifications say so don't expect that. They really shouldn't spec rpm ranges with cams cause engine size (along with induction flow) makes a huge difference in the range it'll work. My guess is it'd work just fine with the air gap cause it'll make peak HP around 6000-6200. On paper it looks to be a really aggressive cam so it should make good power. I haven't ran the 528 cam you have so I can't say how much difference their would be.

Wouldn't expect to rev it to 7200 rpm, the current 528 is limited to 6100 rpm as its all over by then. Peak power from memory was at 5200-5500.
It falls over at the deep end on the 1/4 the 1/8 is just fine as it cuts a 7.65 which should be high 11s. On the 1/4 I can't get it under 12.3 with mph of 112.2
 
I think those stock eddy heads are choking her, yes the cams small but it could still make alot more with some head porting and a better intake. Maybe try another intake and see what it does
 
I'm going to guess just a change to the intake system will improve performance plenty!
As much as the roaster intake is cool to look at, without serious modifications it doesn't work well.

The 528 is a really good cam. Had cars run 11.50's with it, so it's no slouch.
 
I'm going to guess just a change to the intake system will improve performance plenty!
As much as the roaster intake is cool to look at, without serious modifications it doesn't work well.

The 528 is a really good cam. Had cars run 11.50's with it, so it's no slouch.

Thanks Rob.
The duster has the potential to run 11s as the time on the 1/8 indicates.
As far as we are aware the STR is the only one in OZ and has fooled a few people thinking big block, performance wise it is lacking at the upper RPM range.

Currently swapping to the Air Gap and 830. At the same time I'll tighten the lash to your recommendation, run it up on the Dyno and the track see what happens.
 
I think those stock eddy heads are choking her, yes the cams small but it could still make alot more with some head porting and a better intake. Maybe try another intake and see what it does

L4staero, aren't you running Eddies? If so who did your porting in OZ?
Ramms in Sydney have been recommended as well as John White Racing Engines in Brisbane.
 
L4staero, aren't you running Eddies? If so who did your porting in OZ?
Ramms in Sydney have been recommended as well as John White Racing Engines in Brisbane.

My charger currently has a stock stroke 318, ported J's and a 243/251 @.050 solid, victor 340 intake and runs 112.8 mph in a poorly set up car.

Ive used eddys on stock stroke 318's and they work very well but think without porting they are a tad small for 400+ cubes with solid where they need to rev past 6k for peak power.

I think an intake change is a very good choice before pulling heads and cam. Im going to guess you will gain 2-3 mph on the 1/4.
Please keep us updated on your results
 
Ok so we have tested the inlet change and the results were interesting. We did 30 runs changing air bleeds, timing, lash and a cool can.
The Air Gap performed well and the 830HP carb was right on target, we ended up with a 20rwhp increase and 41rwfp of torque. Here's what happened.

Temperature was 24.2c, Humidity 80% and pressure 1017.0hpa
Playing with the air bleeds and timing yielded the best result, tightening the lash from 32/28 to 28/24 we lost 7.4rwhp no mater what we changed. The cool can was good for 4.1rwhp which surprised me as I didn't think it would do much.

End result was 335.9rwhp and just on 500rwfp of torque both of which was disapointing. The power curve move considerable as it now came's in a lot earlier at 2500rpm and stays well into the mid 5000rpm, with peak power at 4200rpm which is a big improvement.

I still have a fuel pressure problem in the upper rpm range, as the carb is emptying the float bowls, we increased the float level until it flooded and then backed it off until it run and the power stayed longer every time we did this until the pump couldn't keep up.

I have a Carter 130gph mechanical pump with no regulater and is a deadhead system, now there could be a diaphragm problem in the pump or I hust might need an electric pump and reg.
What do you think?
 
If the bowls are emptying, it needs more supply available. The power increase may become larger if the fuel supply is adequate.

20hp is a good increase.

Don't get caught up in the numbers, except for the ET/MPH. Dynos are really screwy, especially with auto cars. Converters throw a wrench in the whole deal.
 
I agree with crackedback fuel supply volume is likely the culprit. Upgrade to a Holley Red electric pump and a 1/2 fuel line with a regulator. You can dial it in after that and won't have starvation issues any more.

I second the ET over dyno point. Track is where it's at.
 
Ok so we have tested the inlet change and the results were interesting. We did 30 runs changing air bleeds, timing, lash and a cool can.
The Air Gap performed well and the 830HP carb was right on target, we ended up with a 20rwhp increase and 41rwfp of torque. Here's what happened.

Temperature was 24.2c, Humidity 80% and pressure 1017.0hpa
Playing with the air bleeds and timing yielded the best result, tightening the lash from 32/28 to 28/24 we lost 7.4rwhp no mater what we changed. The cool can was good for 4.1rwhp which surprised me as I didn't think it would do much.

End result was 335.9rwhp and just on 500rwfp of torque both of which was disapointing. The power curve move considerable as it now came's in a lot earlier at 2500rpm and stays well into the mid 5000rpm, with peak power at 4200rpm which is a big improvement.

I still have a fuel pressure problem in the upper rpm range, as the carb is emptying the float bowls, we increased the float level until it flooded and then backed it off until it run and the power stayed longer every time we did this until the pump couldn't keep up.

I have a Carter 130gph mechanical pump with no regulater and is a deadhead system, now there could be a diaphragm problem in the pump or I hust might need an electric pump and reg.
What do you think?


In all fairness, you have carbs are way too small for the STR. I did one with two 650's and they were too small, but the customer didn't think that until we went to the dyno. I would love to do another STR because of what I learned on that one. I feel like I left 20-30 HP on the table, but when worked that STR is a nice piece.

I would think (and I will always say this) that a custom ground cam for your application would be a better choice. You have a very good thing going and you test and, from what I can tell from here, you test well. Think about a custom cam. I use on a regular basis these companies:



Racer Brown...Jim is a MoPar guy and is hard to beat.
Cam Motion...been using these guys since 1997 and never had a cam that didn't do what I asked.
Jones Cams...Mike Jones does some outside the box stuff at has experience I almost all forms of motorsports.
Bullet...these guys have all the Ultradyne lobes.


There are others but this is who I use. This is not a slam on Lunati. I'm just not big on off the shelf cams.
 
I agree with crackedback fuel supply volume is likely the culprit. Upgrade to a Holley Red electric pump and a 1/2 fuel line with a regulator. You can dial it in after that and won't have starvation issues any more.

I second the ET over dyno point. Track is where it's at.

I have a 1/2 line including the pickup, a 40 micron filter which is high flow. We are going to try a new Carter 120gph pump and if we have the same issues I'll upgrade to a Holley and reg.

In all fairness, you have carbs are way too small for the STR. I did one with two 650's and they were too small, but the customer didn't think that until we went to the dyno. I would love to do another STR because of what I learned on that one. I feel like I left 20-30 HP on the table, but when worked that STR is a nice piece.

I would think (and I will always say this) that a custom ground cam for your application would be a better choice. You have a very good thing going and you test and, from what I can tell from here, you test well. Think about a custom cam. I use on a regular basis these companies:



Racer Brown...Jim is a MoPar guy and is hard to beat.
Cam Motion...been using these guys since 1997 and never had a cam that didn't do what I asked.
Jones Cams...Mike Jones does some outside the box stuff at has experience I almost all forms of motorsports.
Bullet...these guys have all the Ultradyne lobes.


There are others but this is who I use. This is not a slam on Lunati. I'm just not big on off the shelf cams.

Your now the third person that's suggested we increase the carbs on the STR along with the internal mods. I want to use the STR and the above was a test to see what we would gain using a modern manifold.

Thanks for the suggested custom cam manufactures, I'll contact them and see what they recommend.

Going to do a test and tune over the next 4 weeks to see how we go. I'll keep you all posted.
 
do you have head flows or estimates?
fill out jones request form
cam for str and other will be different
you should be able to make it work
I have not run one for 50 years but... go for it
 
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