Machine Work

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12swinger said:
They look good enough to me, especially a stock block, crank build.
What’s your thoughts on a head gasket for this oringed block, ring protrudes about 5-6 thousands. Thought about wacking it down with a file, or copper head gaskets?
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I’d either file down the oring or I just fill the groove in with JB Weld or similar and file that down flat and run Cometics. On my drag stuff I used Orings in the head with receiver grooves in the block and copper gaskets. But they are a PITA for street use.
 
.030 will usually clean up any "normal" wear. Also, not every application has pistons available in sizes under .030, so that kinda became the standard.
 
Marcohotrod said:
I have a 1972 340 block - standard = 4.040" . instead of typical +.030, she cleaned up at +.020" = 4.060". later we can go +.030" = 4.070". then +.040" = 4.080" . etc. No sonic test needed yet. Custom pistons are available in any size. Rings not so much - that is what we look at first
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Did exactly the same thing with my son's 340 for the same reasons... one more bore and hone life cycle in the block. (The bores were very good to start with, just needed re-fitting to get back to new clearances.)

Been doing it that way for 40+ years in engines. Only have had one that had to go .040" over on the rebuild to clean up a really badly worn bore.
 
some shops have new machines and can set up a block, push a button and do other work, but they have old prices, that are not going down - they need to pay for new machines that are better for everyone ? the old +.030 and +.060 gives 2 more lives than standard. +020 and +.030 and +.040 and +.060 gives 4 more lives than standard. and to think the old racers instantly went to the max bore allowed by rules
 
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Marcohotrod said:
some shops have new machines and can set up a block, push a button and do other work, but they have old prices, that are not going down - they need to pay for new machines that are better for everyone ? the old +.030 and +.060 gives 2 more lives than standard. +020 and +.030 and +.040 and +.060 gives 4 more lives than standard. and to think the old racers instantly went to the max bore allowed by rules
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Yup. A new Rottler hone is 100k plus diamond stones and soft honing brushes. They are now in some cases using CBD for final plateau honing, and they ain’t cheap either.

I’ve never run a Rottler like that, but I’ve seen it and it is bad assed. Rottler can look at the machine as it’s honing and see what’s going on through the Internet.
 
I like using a hand hone for the final prep.
Of course it’s a Sunnen fixed hone.
 
Yup. My “perfection” guy uses the Rottler F86A for blocks, and HP6A honing cabinet. That’s the one I was hypnotized by. Gimme a beer and sandwich and I could watch it all day. The operator was cleaning and fetching my parts the whole time.
 
When developing the KB pistons we did several with "minimum hone with torque plate" worked fine
those that didn't we went .020 never had to go .030
I still have a machined block with .020 quench dome pistons ready to go but today would switch to FT or dished with wedge closed chamber heads
I'll hit the bores with a fine bottle brush
Brush research is one town over
I'm not going to use a ridgid hone after CK-10 with a torque plate
 
My race motor with an o-ringed block and heads ran fine on FelPro 1008 headgaskets....just remove the orings.

That block is now being machined on a Rottler 86A . I don't expect the cost to be less than on the old equipment... Why would a guy spend $200k and charge less?
 
Krooser said:
That block is now being machined on a Rottler 86A . I don't expect the cost to be less than on the old equipment... Why would a guy spend $200k and charge less?
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The old watermelon joke.... he'll make it up on volume LOL
 
Wyrmrider said:
When developing the KB pistons we did several with "minimum hone with torque plate" worked fine
those that didn't we went .020 never had to go .030
I still have a machined block with .020 quench dome pistons ready to go but today would switch to FT or dished with wedge closed chamber heads
I'll hit the bores with a fine bottle brush
Brush research is one town over
I'm not going to use a ridgid hone after CK-10 with a torque plate
Click to expand...
Hey wyrm... Since you have the 'connections' at UEMP: Can you talk to the KB guys and see if they will make a version of the 318 KB167 with a heavy pin, so the 318 guys will have a straight drop-in replacement for getting the compression up to snuff without needing to re-balance the engine? I think it would sell.
 
Chief Engineer John Erbe is long retired
but ask
but looks like over the years some part numbers have disappeared
 
I have made the suggestion to their product guys, and they were polite about it, but I have no pull.
 
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