Duster
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the info I will rethink that over.
Robert
Robert
Magnum Force 2" Drop Spindle
- Thread starter Duster
- Start date
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if there is anyone on this forum I trust when it comes to suspension stuff, its @72bluNblu
No problem!
I actually ran Magnumforce drop spindles on my Challenger for awhile. Like I said, the geometry changes aren't really something that are glaringly obvious if you're just driving on the street. For me though, I found that with larger torsion bars I could lower the car just as much using the torsion bar adjusters, and the car handled better. There's just a bunch of things that come up at about the same time with a ~2" drop, and the drop spindles really only solve one of those issues.
If you're really against larger torsion bars, then the drop spindles are really the only way to go. And if you truly are planning on lower the car a full 2", then you do need pretty large torsion bars. I'm using 1.12" bars, and I'm pretty much at the limit for suspension travel with those at my ride height. So, with smaller bars than that you couldn't be as low as my car is. But, my car is pretty low. And I really can't go much lower before I run into other problems.
To me though, if you're lowering the car so it will handle better, there's no reason for drop spindles. If you're just lowering the car for cosmetics, and you want to keep the softer, smaller diameter torsion bars, then the drop spindles will work. But they aren't a cheaper option, and really all they provide is a lower ride height, not any kind of improved suspension geometry.
Thanks! I'm no expert, but I have learned a few things the hard way!
"Stupid question- What's the difference between using drop spindles and just adjusting the torsion bars to lower a car with stock spindles to the desired ride height?"
The problem that I see is that in some cases, additional suspension travel could mean that vital underbody parts will now get closer to the pavement as the suspension compresses.
Not good.
Imagine even with a stock oil pan...when you are running down a poorly maintained road, suspension going up and down. If you hit the brakes JUST as the suspension compresses, the K member hits the ground, the exhaust, the tires hit the fenders, etc.
The problem that I see is that in some cases, additional suspension travel could mean that vital underbody parts will now get closer to the pavement as the suspension compresses.
Not good.
Imagine even with a stock oil pan...when you are running down a poorly maintained road, suspension going up and down. If you hit the brakes JUST as the suspension compresses, the K member hits the ground, the exhaust, the tires hit the fenders, etc.
That’s exactly what I was talking about with the tire to inner fender clearance. That’s the first thing that comes up, and that clearance becomes a problem not too far past the 2” drop mark. So even if you just use the full 2” drop from the drop spindles and run a 26” tire you end up close to bottoming the inner fenders against the tires.
You can run shorter tires, but then you trade the inner fender clearance for ground clearance issues.
So the idea that you can lower the car with the drop spindles and keep all the suspension travel doesn’t work. You still can’t necessarily use all of the suspension travel you have without bottoming out other stuff.
Hemidenny and I talked about this, what we really need to lower these cars as much as possible and have them handle well and use more reasonably sized torsion bars is a 1” drop spindle. You get some travel back, you still lower the car with the adjusters some so the geometry is better, and you could run a 1.03” bar and lower the max amount instead of say the 1.12’s I have.
GMachineDartGT
Senior Member
Magnum force and PST are the same. It's a casting instead or a forging but seems a bit safer than the fatman part.
GMachineDartGT
Senior Member
The main thing to consider is roll center. It changes considerably with drop spindles. Unless you have drop spindles AND are set very low you may wind up ok. For most popular ride heights the roll center will be higher which is a large negative.
@72bluNblu, the car with the 1.12" bars, is the rear lowered and how?
Yes, my Duster is lowered some in the back as well. I use a set of discontinued AFCO 121 lb/in zero arch springs, similar to the reissued Mopar oval track springs. As they settled in I’d say the height is a little lower than factory springs. I also did away with the rear shackles using a set of spring sliders, and the way that I mounted those lowered the car another 3/8” or so.
The end result is about 1” of rake measured at the tops of the wheel openings.
those sliders make much noise? or just not enough for you to care
Well, all I can really say is that I can’t hear them over the dynomax ultra-flows.
famous bob
mopar misfit
Well, all I can really say is that I can’t hear them over the dynomax ultra-flows.
I am far , far from an expert on front ends . But the camber adjustment is not an issue w/ the mag.force front end I have, it can be changed w/o messing w/ any other settings , by the lower heim joints . just my 2 centavos----Sure miss the ride and good driving of the torsion bars tho.
If I thot my headers would clear , I`d rebuild the stock form. S front end I saved . Think I`d do the s/s A Hotrod hemi oil pan trick to it , but would still have the header/steering box problem.
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