Main caps...

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You'll start to get cap walk at around 550-600 horse.

Studs should help abit.
 
You will get a differant answer for about everyone you talk to. I have heard from 550 to 800 on studs with the stock caps. Motors in the 700 to 800 will do better on the stock cap if the have an aluminum rod. The RPM will also play a big part on cap life high comp. steel rods, and 7K plus RPM will work against the rod.
 
Right now I'm working with a 383, ported stock heads 11.5:1 comp, .509 cam...
I never got the bottom end balanced (dumb move). I came into a steel crank so while it's apart and getting balanced I figure I'd go with new caps if it was called for.. I think I'm real safe...
 
For those who found this thread
When installing
Inspect the new crank thrust faces and your main thrust faces if using the same main bearings Inspecting the crank thrust is frequently missed
then make sure your new crank spins freely with the mains torqued except the thrust main just snugged down
then "set" the thrust main by moving the crank back then forward with a soft dead blow hammer or 4x4 whatever with the cap slightly loose- so it will slide
you want to torque the thrust main with both upper and lower thrust faces touching the thrust face of the crank
just use EO on the threads
spin the crank again and then do the pistons and rods oil on the rod bolts unless you have special rodbolts
The build should have been fine with stock caps- any follow up OP?
 
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