breadman839
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has anybody used one?
are they worth using?
i'm building a .60 over 360. 4" stroke.
are they worth using?
i'm building a .60 over 360. 4" stroke.
I'm running MLR billet main caps, and a Hughes stud girdle. I have a ton of money in my motor and figured if it helps great, and it won't hurt anything if it doesn't. My stroker dyno'd at 605hp, and now has 2500 miles on it, probably a 100 red line pulls in 1st and 2nd, and two full quarter mile blasts. No issues to report.
ok, I just looked - I didn't know you could still buy new r3 blocks - duh.......3+ grand though - ouch...
1970Duster, by chance do you have any photo's or detail on the scraper set up please, I have a Hughes girdle on my 408 and am a fan of windage trays so I'm just trying to figure out my best plan of attack before I zip it shutI use a girdle in EVERY build I do period. I think they are worth every penny. I have one in my 340 with a crank scraper (up and down stroke) and could've stuffed a windage try in there if I wanted.
Several places advertise them but no one I've found has them or a firm date when they will.
My 408 has stock caps and ARP studs and no fill, upon teardown it showed signs of cap walk on a couple caps and one cap is loose in the registers. The main and cam bearings showed odd bearing wear from the front to back. The main bearings were worn on the bottom in the front and the wear moved more to the top at the #4 journal. This indicates to me that the block was flexing and I consider myself lucky it didn't bust a cylinder and ruin everything.
A girdle MAY have helped with the cap walk buy IMO would do nothing to strengthen the block.
My current build uses a R1 block, when compared to a production block it's easy to see why the R series blocks are stronger.
breadman839 said:has anybody used one?
are they worth using?
i'm building a .60 over 360. 4" stroke.
Several places advertise them but no one I've found has them or a firm date when they will.
BOYAKI. What Year Is Your Block ?