carmart1975
Well-Known Member
Thank you i will read theseHere's some 318 articles
Thank you i will read theseHere's some 318 articles
somehow i missed this on the first go around...i am really on a tight budget. is all of this possible or unrealistic.
Wow, how many threads about hopping up 318's do we need? I bet there are 200+ threads about the subject already written.
I'd say 200+ is about right. Maybe a few more.
Problem is everyone of them there's no consensus, opinions very wildly, unlike 340/360/408 most generally agree.Wow, how many threads about hopping up 318's do we need? I bet there are 200+ threads about the subject already written.
and Dan's not even involved YET !Wow, how many threads about hopping up 318's do we need? I bet there are 200+ threads about the subject already written.
Mine was pretty specific lolWow, how many threads about hopping up 318's do we need? I bet there are 200+ threads about the subject already written.
at least as many as "what's the biggest size wheel/tire fits my [blank]?" and maybe slightly less than "my lower ball joint bolts are hitting my swaybar! what do??"Wow, how many threads about hopping up 318's do we need? I bet there are 200+ threads about the subject already written.
I mean, I don’t have as much sticker shock as you’d think, but I’m hoping to be about roughly 3000 into the motor i hope for less because I still have to buy a V-8 transmission, just a dumb 15 year old you knowsomehow i missed this on the first go around...
how tight of budget are we talking here? going fast for beer money or like, i'm eating ramen so i can pay the machinist a week from tuesday?
the money part of it colors the build and the components wildly because of affordability. don't get me wrong, you can build awesome stuff and go fast with used parts but you have considerations such as patience, tenacity, selection, work and luck. you can pay $500 for an intake and have it right now, or you can pay $350 after spending two weeks to hunt one down. you can pay $450 for a carb or grab a used one for $150, throw a $50 kit at it and rebuild it yourself.
and since you're new to mopar, parts pricing is going to give you a bit of sticker shock.
Just like this one will end up. I've stopped giving engine build advice for that very reason.Problem is everyone of them there's no consensus, opinions very wildly, unlike 340/360/408 most generally agree.
I can do everything myself except the machine work everything else I’m pretty confident and actually at school I’m on the engine building team i’ve been working on cars since I was four the very first thing I did when I was four years old was a fuel pump on my grandparents 1954 Chevy 150. I’m 15 now.i think you *might* be able to get there. how much work you can do yourself will weigh heavily on the coin. probably the absolute biggest nut is gonna be machine work.
lets get a run down of what you have, what your skills are, and a inventory of what all is present. the brain trust here can likely get ya pointed in the right direction.
No, the biggest nut is always the original poster who always refuses good, solid advice from over 90% of the respondents. Of course, with this thread, that remains to be seen. Hopefully he'll listen, but it won't be to me.i think you *might* be able to get there. how much work you can do yourself will weigh heavily on the coin. probably the absolute biggest nut is gonna be machine work.
That's great! A young mind willing to learn. My advice is look at the other hundreds of 318 threads on here. Pay particular attention to how a lot of the original posters either argue with or completely ignore good advice and then, don't do that.I can do everything myself except the machine work everything else I’m pretty confident and actually at school I’m on the engine building team i’ve been working on cars since I was four the very first thing I did when I was four years old was a fuel pump on my grandparents 1954 Chevy 150. I’m 15 now.
Ok i will look into the 399s never heard of them i have 3.21s out back toDepending on the chamber volume and what they actually measure at, you could use kb399’s. They’re domed and could put your compression up higher where it won’t be a lazy low compression combo. What axle, gears and tire size does your car have? That has to be considered for your cam. Stall of converter?
Ok will do thank youThat's great! A young mind willing to learn. My advice is look at the other hundreds of 318 threads on here. Pay particular attention to how a lot of the original posters either argue with or completely ignore good advice and then, don't do that.
That's a great street gear.Ok i will look into the 399s never heard of them i have 3.21s out back to
Thank you for the info i did not know thatIf not open to running the required gear and stall, I'll build around the gear and stall compromise you set.
Main problem when building smaller displacement is they gonna need generally more gear stall rpm etc. for example a 318 will need about 13% more gear, stall, peak rpm etc.. Than a similar hp 360 to get similar performance (13% based on similar efficiency lbs-ft). Obviously efficiency can vary.
I only read your post and will tell you to treat it like a 340.so i recently got and 1973 small block 318 i am very new to mopar and was wondering what to do to the 318 i have every thing but the pistons the guy that i got it off of droped one and cracked it, i also have 360 heads that i would like to put on i am thinking about putting kb 167 pistons (0.40 over) in it, stock crank, stock rods and a rad cam with a lot of lope because i am a stupid kid, and stock 360 heads and then some kind of single plane intake and then a 750 double pumper i am really on a tight budget. is all of this possible or unrealistic.
Thank you i really appreciate itI only read your post and will tell you to treat it like a 340.
Replace the piston or a new set, the new set should be the KB pistons with a dome for some compression with an open chambered head . I myself like to ounch out the bore as far as possible on a 318. Sonic check it first. Then use a cloased chambered head (Edelbrock for example annd probably with a flat top piston and cam as needed.
Go here for a compression ratio calculator;
Compression Ratio Calculator - Wallace Racing
The 318 can not be bored out to a 340 (4.04 bore size) but may, MAY Sonic check good to a 4.00 bore. That would be 332 cubes. If it only goes .060 overbored, it’s a 327.
Grab the “How to Rebuild a small block MoPar book(s) and go from there.
Have fun
So i listen al of your question in a later reply but i an hoping for 425hp-500hp but i know 500 is a stretch it will be a street/strip carYour gonna get a lot of conflicting advice on 318's, you seem to be on the right track, i don't know about the single plane and lot of lope (possible depending on), but first before that what gears stall and what kind of performance and purpose are you looking for ? 318 need rpm to make decent power which like deep gears stall etc..
Yes i will make sure not to do that. I missed a lot of the post because I was at school my bad. I also thought for some reason everyone could see the replies little new to this Form thing.That's great! A young mind willing to learn. My advice is look at the other hundreds of 318 threads on here. Pay particular attention to how a lot of the original posters either argue with or completely ignore good advice and then, don't do that.
Nobody's asked, but what's your budget?
I would like to spend no more than 3000 but I’m really trying to build this as cheap as possible because I still have to buy a transmission and some other things for the actual car itself but it does run and drive right now with that little 225 slantNobody's asked, but what's your budget?