Malwood underdash hydraulic kit for A-Bodies

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That is good to know, I was just about to pull the trigger on this setup. That was not made known to me, and is certainly a game changer. Thanks for the info.

For what it’s worth, it was just this week that he found the problem. I need to verify that he talked to Malwood about it so they know.
 
Just to follow up on this, my brother mounted his Malwood kit and found that the stock under dash e-brake setup no longer fits. The MC interferes with it.

He is going to an electric actuated e-brake rather than a hand pull setup. But maybe not for everyone so thought I would make it known.

Really good information to have! You’d think they could at least make that clear, for that kind of money it sucks to find out mid-install you need to do a bunch more work!
 
Really good information to have! You’d think they could at least make that clear, for that kind of money it sucks to find out mid-install you need to do a bunch more work!

I wonder if they even thought about it. Didn't cross my mind until my brother called and said the e-brake doesn't fit. I know it is a new kit, he waited on them while they were developing it.

Not certain but I think this is the e-brake kit my brother bought:


About doubles the cost of the install.
 
I just reached out to Ross at Malwood, he tells me there is no interference between the underdash hydraulic pedal assembly and factory park brake assembly with the 67-76 Mopar A body kit.
 
@DionR can your brother send some pictures? I am having a hard time visualizing any interference. The master is attached behind the clutch pedal on the malwood, I just can't see where the pull park.brake would hit?
 
@DionR was you brothers car by chance an automatic car originally?
 
@DionR can your brother send some pictures? I am having a hard time visualizing any interference. The master is attached behind the clutch pedal on the malwood, I just can't see where the pull park.brake would hit?

I can ask. I do have this, but not sure how helpful it is.

IMG_0047.jpeg
 
I believe it was. Does that make a difference?
I spoke with Ross on the phone this morning, as well as linking him to the post.

He said this is the first time he has heard if this issue on the 67-76 A body kit.

He has heard of this on 67-68 Mustangs. On auto cars the park brake assembly is mounted slightly closer to column, vs manual cars. Ross indicated there are in fact 3 holes under the dash on the Mustangs, the bracket only uses 2 of the holes. Auto cars use holes closest to column, manual use the more left holes, sharing the center hole. Why they did this, who knows? Perhaps a similar scenario on our Mopars?
 
I spoke with Ross on the phone this morning, as well as linking him to the post.

He said this is the first time he has heard if this issue on the 67-76 A body kit.

He has heard of this on 67-68 Mustangs. On auto cars the park brake assembly is mounted slightly closer to column, vs manual cars. Ross indicated there are in fact 3 holes under the dash on the Mustangs, the bracket only uses 2 of the holes. Auto cars use holes closest to column, manual use the more left holes, sharing the center hole. Why they did this, who knows? Perhaps a similar scenario on our Mopars?

I will try and take a look at my car during lunch and report back.
 
Ross states only 2 inches on left side of brake/clutch pedal bracket are needed for the kit. Viewing this photo I just found on another post, I can't see how It is an issue.
image.jpeg
 
I spoke with Ross on the phone this morning, as well as linking him to the post.

He said this is the first time he has heard if this issue on the 67-76 A body kit.

He has heard of this on 67-68 Mustangs. On auto cars the park brake assembly is mounted slightly closer to column, vs manual cars. Ross indicated there are in fact 3 holes under the dash on the Mustangs, the bracket only uses 2 of the holes. Auto cars use holes closest to column, manual use the more left holes, sharing the center hole. Why they did this, who knows? Perhaps a similar scenario on our Mopars?

My car was an auto and swapped to 4 speed. I don't believe there is any difference with the firewall or dash with the auto vs manual cars, just the floor hump.
 
To be clear, when he called me all we talked about was the interference between the e-brake and Malwood kit. The fuse panel never entered the discussion. Wouldn’t be surprised if it interferes now, but I don’t believe it is the issue with the e-brake.

Not saying my brother didn’t miss something and it could have worked, but I know it wasn’t the fuse panel that is the real source of the problem.

My bet is he was trying to get the e-brake bolted in so he could figure out where the panel would fit, and when he found a problem he got rid of the e-brake handle and put the fuse panel where it made sense to him.
 
Here's some pictures from my car. No extra holes for a different e-brake location.

Looks tight, not saying it won't work, but doesn't look like a lot of room either.

20240322_115142.jpg


20240322_115315.jpg


20240322_115238.jpg
 
@DionR Any more information from your Brother, did he reach out to Malwood?
 
@DionR Any more information from your Brother, did he reach out to Malwood?

I asked him to, but I don't think he will. And I asked if he took pictures of the interference and he said no.

I will tell him that someone talked to Malwood who didn't think there should be a problem. Maybe that will push him to reach out.
 
I just installed mine on the weekend and can confirm there is no interference. I drilled a hole through the oblong body plug which I think is for a factory clutch rod for the pressure hose, lines up perfectly with the master feed fitting.
 
I just installed mine on the weekend and can confirm there is no interference. I drilled a hole through the oblong body plug which I think is for a factory clutch rod for the pressure hose, lines up perfectly with the master feed fitting.
Thanks, I'll get mine ordered!
 
I was reading through the comments a bit. I get the reluctance of having the master under the dash, but for idiots like me it saved sooo much fab time with making the AP or similar kit mount correctly with enough backing for flex on the firewall, the math on the pedal travel, pedal stop, etc etc. The cheapest way to do this is buy the Malwood and the Ram bearing, they pop up on sale on amazon for $220 every now and then, that is all you need. Modifying my power brake pedal was quick and easy, and I sold my manual pedal assembly I had sourced as it was not needed anymore with this kit. I had already bought the AP kit two years ago so I ended up using the Hydramax bearing as I had no takers on the kit.

I have to add, Ross at Malwood puts on a master class of tech support. He will call you back and has no problem explaining things and answering all of my questions. Malwood and Brewers tech support has been amazing helping me through this swap.
 
I just installed mine on the weekend and can confirm there is no interference. I drilled a hole through the oblong body plug which I think is for a factory clutch rod for the pressure hose, lines up perfectly with the master feed fitting.

Glad to hear. Sorry about the false alarm.

No idea what tripped my brother up, but I am certain it wasn't the fuse panel. I hurt myself pretty good so I haven't been able to go up and see his build since December, so I can only go off what he told me on the phone.
 
@Muswagon
Is your install complete, if so how is the pedal feel?

Where did you route the hose to the throwout bearing?
 
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