mancini tube upper control arm failure....

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Still wouldn't break the weld. The other thing is if I remember correctly the car is from Detroit. The arms were bought in dec of 08. They broke in may of 09. How much use have they really gotten in that short period of time? I know that in jersery the weather didn't allow all that much use. And I believe that Detroit has a little longer and colder winter.

The assumption implied is that the A-arm broke during regular street driving causing the accident to jump a curb and hit a pole.

Maybe it broke after the curb and pole impacts. No proof otherwise. Curbs and poles are not something you drive over in spirited or racetrack driving.

Ok, it shouldn't break the weld like that. But it shouldn't hit a pole or jump a curb and speed like that either.
 
Maybe it broke after the curb and pole impacts. No proof otherwise. Curbs and poles are not something you drive over in spirited or racetrack driving.

Ok, it shouldn't break the weld like that. But it shouldn't hit a pole or jump a curb and speed like that either.



i agree with that. but that arm is not bent enough for that weld to break. for that arm to break it should be mangled. even then the weld shouldn't have broke. we will probably never know which came first the crash or the broken weld. the one thing we do know is the weld broke and shouldn't have.
 
I keep having the ball joints back themselves out of the threads on the OEM ones...but its still doesn't cause you to wreck the car.

I've seen this more than once and have to wonder...... what would it hurt to spot weld the ball joints to the A-arm?
 
Take a look at any nice aftermarket A Arm. The welds are clearly TIG welds where the cup meets the tube. CAP's are clearly sloppy MIG welds. MIGs are great for production type of work but an A Arm should be TIG'ed.
 
hey 360scamp you guessed wrong...mark was going through a intersection when the car started topull right slightly thought it was because of the skinny tires then all of a sudden hard left could not control it. went up a curb then into a tree.he never launches his .
 
The CAP a-arms have the rod ends threaded into the tubes. In order for the tube to be strong enough to support threading in the rod end it has to be MUCH thicker than it would need to be to just support the normal A-arm loads. This being the case, the tube section of that A-arm is overbuilt. The weld, on the other hand, is basically the same size as it would be if the tube were of a thinner wall. The strength of the weld depends on its thickness and length. The length can't change in this application unless you go with a much larger diameter tube, which isn't practical. The thickness isn't just the depth, its the width of the weld, which is also fairly limited for this application. The depth can be larger with the increased thickness of the tube, but its a fairly small increase in the strength of the weld compared to the increase in the strength of the tube itself.

So, you have a short, thick wall section of tubing welded to a short, thick section of ball-joint retainer. That will NOT act like most members involved in a weld. For a long section of thin wall tube, yes, the tube should have bent before the weld broke. But for this instance that may not be the case at all, the bending loads required to bend a short section of thick wall tube could very well be higher than the shear load needed to break the weld. Which is exactly why the joint should be gusseted, to add inches of weld and thereby strength to the joint.

If a weld joins two 6 inch sections of solid tubular rod should those bend first too? There are a lot of variables to consider, obviously at one extreme of the example the tubes should bend, at the other extreme, the weld will break first. To say that the tube should bend first in every single case, and every single possible loading condition just isn't accurate.
 
I think the welds broke after impact, just because the whole front end is smashed, and the tire is tweaked.

I also think the guy driving hit a bump, lost control, and was looking for something to blame the crash on.:glasses9:
 
hey 360scamp you guessed wrong...mark was going through a intersection when the car started topull right slightly thought it was because of the skinny tires then all of a sudden hard left could not control it. went up a curb then into a tree.he never launches his .

Sucks that it happened but isn't it kind of a waist to have all that car and never launch it?

All that motor under the tarp in the pics, all the work that went into the car, the big and littles and drum brakes (first pic)? What was he doing driving that car on the street in the first place? You would think that if you were going to build that car that way and put the cash into the front end you would spend it on disk brakes instead of fancy control arms first.
The 390 with a 4bbl in our 72 ford pick up is about all the stock drums can take and if for some reason I ever wanted to have something sticking out of the hood that would require a set of big and littles you bet your *** I would upgrade the hell out of the front brakes.
 
Figured I'd post this photo for the members who are saying that the weld is broken because the arm got bent. This is an upper arm we run locally at the circle track on a protruck(84 buick regal chassis) this bend is from impacting another trucks rear tire. this arm is welded in the same fashion as every other tubular control arm. this arm bent in such a form that the ball joint mount is actually stretched but the welds are intact. Whether the car hit a curb or not that doesn't explain why both would be broken.


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Late in the running on this one. I am very sorry for the owner and would like to weight in with you all that I too hope no one was hurt!

One problem that I see with much of this stuff made for street or road race use is that the manufacturers don't have a huge market and they also know that most of their products end user's won't put them to heavy use because we drive antiques that are "precious"; this opposed to products that have a comparatively huge market - such as those made for 2005up Mustangs, 350Zs and Chargers - which will in fact take a beating and very often are factory certified. Therefore I suggest that most of these aftermarket parts be looked at carefully if their intended use is not just shows, etc.
 
guys ... he did not launch the car was just driving it when they broke.they were installedright after xmas 08 . i know the car and the owner he drive it respectfuly the looks fast but he can drive all day long with out any problems...except for the broken CAPupper control arms.
 
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