Manual brake push rod

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44067gtdart

44067gtdart

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I am converting from Power brakes to manual brakes. I am looking for a manual brake push rod for a 1971 Dodge Dart Swinger. I am also wondering if there is anything else I need for the conversion?
 
You need to start a wanted ad in the proper classified forum. Thanks
 
I would ask why you are choosing to convert from power to manual? Isn't it usually the other way around? Front discs and or 10" drums?

P.S. You cannot miss the Delete option. It should be available at the bottom-left of each of your entries.
 
44067gtdart said:
I already did that. I did this ad by mistake and did not know how to delete it
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hwd2 said:
I would ask why you are choosing to convert from power to manual? Isn't it usually the other way around? Front discs and or 10" drums?
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I just like the look of the manual brake setup. Less clutter in the engine compartment. I am also installing a 440, so I wasn't sure if I could run a power booster and still have access to removing the valve covers.
 
hwd2 said:
I would ask why you are choosing to convert from power to manual? Isn't it usually the other way around? Front discs and or 10" drums?

P.S. You cannot miss the Delete option. It should be available at the bottom-left of each of your entries.
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I do see the delete button on my replies, but the original post only has an edit button. I do not see how to delete the original post.
 
So do you have drums or discs in front? Still SBP or already converted to BBP? I only ask 'cause I'm still getting by with well-functioning 9" drums - but pondering a power booster (which I already have), but only 4 more days of driving until next spring.

So, maybe just select Edit then cancel all you can by 'back-spacing'?
 
hwd2 said:
So do you have drums or discs in front? Still SBP or already converted to BBP? I only ask 'cause I'm still getting by with well-functioning 9" drums - but pondering a power booster (which I already have), but only 4 more days of driving until next spring.
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I had front drums brakes, but I am converting to small bolt pattern Kelsey Hayes disc brakes. Seems like I can never get the adjustment right on the drum brakes. Seems like they would eventually pull either to the left or to the right. And I figured with the 440 that the disc brakes would probably stop a little better.
 
318 car? Stock (8.25") rear? Haven't you considered upgrading to later A-body (BBP) discs with larger axles in rear?
 
hwd2 said:
318 car? Stock (8.25") rear? Haven't you considered upgrading to later A-body (BBP) discs with larger axles in rear?
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I have considered that. I do have that setup on my 67 Dart GT. I have a decent set of Rallye wheels on it now, and didn't want to really have to replace the wheels and tires right now. I did convert to an 8 3/4 rear.
 
hwd2 said:
I would ask why you are choosing to convert from power to manual? Isn't it usually the other way around? Front discs and or 10" drums?

P.S. You cannot miss the Delete option. It should be available at the bottom-left of each of your entries.
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I went to manual in several cars. Big cam with little vacuum is the main reason plus power is not really needed with good disc brakes. Cleaner look too.
 
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I presume you're also changing the master cylinder since you're going to KH discs? Use a smaller diameter pistoned master cylinder for a manual setup if you want an easier pedal.
 
cudamark said:
I presume you're also changing the master cylinder since you're going to KH discs? Use a smaller diameter pistoned master cylinder for a manual setup if you want an easier pedal.
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What would be the best master cylinder to use ?
 
For the factory look, I would use a cast iron master for a manual disc brake A-body application your year. Some are easier to find than others. If your year is hard to find, try using an early to mid '70's application. Something with a 15/16" piston diameter usually works good.
 
cudamark said:
For the factory look, I would use a cast iron master for a manual disc brake A-body application your year. Some are easier to find than others. If your year is hard to find, try using an early to mid '70's application. Something with a 15/16" piston diameter usually works good.
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I will do that..Thank you..
 
44067gtdart said:
I am converting from Power brakes to manual brakes. I am looking for a manual brake push rod for a 1971 Dodge Dart Swinger. I am also wondering if there is anything else I need for the conversion?
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The brake pedal assembly itself should be different. Manual brake pedals normally have more leverage making it easier to stop a non assisted car.
 
ab7fh said:
The brake pedal assembly itself should be different. Manual brake pedals normally have more leverage making it easier to stop a non assisted car.
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I haven't seen that in Mopars. Perhaps you are thinking of Chevy's which I think have 2 holes in the brake pedal for manual or power and the power booster is angled on the firewall. In Mopars, I think the pedal and the firewall hole are the same between manual and power brake cars. There is a lever in the firewall bracket of boosters.
 
My 1964 Valiant has manual brakes. I used a 7/8"D master cylinder for a ~1998 Breeze w/ ABS (2 ports) on a 2-4 bolt adapter plate ($30 ebay). The pedal rod fit tight into the MC piston, using a new rubber bushing. I swapped over the rubber dust bellows from a Mopar manual MC. The pedal wound up in exactly the same place. Search my post. Many here buy the kit from Dewey something (posted many times) - 2 to 4 bolt adapter plate plus alum MC for 1980's Dodge truck ~$95. For you better to get their smaller bore option (I recall 15/16" custom-made for ~$120).
 
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