Manual Steering Box Replacement Question

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otto37

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I need to replace the manual steering box in my 1969 dart. It has a 383. It's hard to turn when going slow. Is there a manual steering box that is easier to turn then a stock box? I've seen the Flaming River box, but it says quick ratio 16:1. Is that going to make it even harder to turn, or easier? On ebay I see a stock replacement box that is new and aluminum for $239. Has anyone used the Flaming River, vs. the stock replacement new aluminum box?

I'd like to find a manual box that makes it easier to turn at slow speeds.

Thanks for your help.
 
So far as I know the factory box is the slowest ratio and therefore easiest to turn. Many things affect steering effort

Alignment, mostly caster

wheel size, width, offset, and tires

steering wheel diameter

There exists fast ratio pitman arms, maybe someone put one of those on, or wrong one (don't know if or what that might be)

Of course "tight" stuff in the steering
 
Good point about many things affecting steering effort.

My car has stock 14 inch wheels and tires. I think it's a stock pitman arm. It has numbers on it: 7282-FLc1 C58, if that helps. The steering wheel is also stock 16". All of my ball joints are new, with no play and I had the car aligned. The shop said the steering box is worn. So, I've pulled the box and now I'm ready to buy one or rebuild mine. In reading the rebuild threads, it doesn't sound like much of a rebuild, more of a clean and re-grease. Is that correct?
 
The other thing my car has is the connector between the box and steering column is a box type looking thing with rubber in it. I've seen ones that look more like a universal joint. Is there any advantage to one or the other? Mine seems in good shape, but was a pain in the neck to slide off the steering box shaft.
 
Unless you have a fast ratio steering box in there already, you already have the easiest steering manual box there is. Stock ratio is 24:1, fast ratio is 16:1. And the 16:1 box is harder to steer.
 
Thanks for explaining about the ratios. I think maybe I need to figure out what I have. Maybe I already have the 16:1. It seems to be an aluminum unit, and I think stock was cast iron.
 
Nope. Stock was cast aluminum.

manualboxes1.jpg


Easiest way to figure out what you have is to count the number revolutions lock-to-lock on the steering wheel or input shaft. 5-1/2 turns lock to lock is a 24:1 box, 3-1/2 turns lock to lock is a 16:1. There's also a mopar performance and Firm Feel gears out there that are 20:1, those are 4-1/2 turns lock to lock. The picture shows small and large sector stock manual boxes. Pretty much everything got the small sector box, the large sector box was for C-bodies and vans.
 
Oh man, you're awesome! I just tested mine and it is the24:1 ratio. Thanks for the pictures and info. So, I just need to replace or rebuild and will go with 24:1. Thanks for all the help. I'm thinking to call Firm Feel.
 
No problem!

Firm Feel does a great job, I've got a bunch of their stuff on my cars.

Just out of curiosity, what alignment specs did the shop use when they aligned your car? It does make a difference in steering effort. Although, all manual boxes get harder to steer at slow speeds, it's just the way it works. The 16:1 Flaming River box in my Duster is a real bear below 5mph or so, the 275/35/18's up front definitely don't help with that. But the steering feel is amazing once you're on the road.
 
It has occurred to me to go power steering. My car has the 383. The bottom pulley on the motor is a single belt, running water and alternator.
Does anyone have a complete set of items needed for me to make this power steering? Pump, brackets, bolts, steering box, pullies, hoses? Cost?
Thanks, Mike
 
I swapped my 68 Barracuda over to power steering. It has been the single best modification behind disk brakes I have done for my driving enjoyment.

If you go that way you can eliminate the over boosted feel of Mopar power steering from that era by removing the pressure relief valve from the pump and put some spacers between the cap and body to reduce the pressure. I bought a kit from Summit by March that gives you a bunch of spacers of different thicknesses to Taylor the feel to your liking.
 
The reason your 383 has manual steering is because the factory couldn't figure out how to fit the power steering unit in with the big block. That's the price you pay for bragging rights. I have 24:1 manual in my SB fastback and yes, it's hard to turn at low speeds with wide tires. My solution is going to the gym. But check out the aftermarket -- maybe someone has a power steering solution for this application.
 
Thanks for everyones help. I decided to man up and buy a new stock manual replacement steering box. I put it in last night and went for a drive. It's manual, but it is waaay easier then my last box, that was just worn out I think. Yeah, I'm happy. Thanks
 
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