Manual valve body benefits?

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Yes. IMO there are benefits over an automatic valve body. The manual valve body makes the transmission shift instantly, with zero overlap between shifts. That saves clutches. They also increase line pressure. Again, that saves clutches.

About the low band apply. IMO, if you know how to shift a torqueflite, low band apply is much ado about nothing. It is to help prevent destroying the overrunning clutch when doing a burnout.

All you have to do to get around low band apply is do your burnouts in 2nd gear. Problem solved, over and out, roger wilco. People make a huge issue out of it I think just so they can have more bench racing braggin ability. "Yup that baby even has low band apply."

There's even a big price difference between them too, so if you're pinching pennies, that might be something to think about. I am sure others will flame me and disagree, but that's my 2 cents.
 
I went TF because I can no longer handle heavy clutches. I bought a used "non" low band apply, reverse pattern, and just love it.

I realize most of us don't drive in the snow with these girls, but that WOULD be a "real world" example of how damn handy a manual VB could be. You can start in any gear, so in snow, ice, you could "lug" it into 2 or 3, and if careful, IE not applying huge throttle, you won't overheat the converter and do damage.

These are pretty handy around "town," with that cop givin you the eye from "over there." Well ****, LOL, we'll just ease around the corner in second instead of first, LOL, and have almost no chance of accidently barking the tires into 2nd.

One "advantage" of the "non" low band apply, is that if "something should happen" and you mistakenly end up in 1st at 70 mph, bad things are guaranteed with a low band apply VB. You'll either slide the rear tires and whatever happens next, or you might feed a valve to a piston.

You want to have a VERY well adjusted and precise shifter for one of these to prevent just that sort of thing. I'm currently running a BM "Pro stick" and have now "figured it out." But I also bought a used Cheetah (on here) and will eventually use it. "As built" the Cheetah is not optimum for a reverse pattern, but is usable, and you can get a reverse pattern detent plate for around 50-55 bucks.

I'm sure folks use these with ratchet shifters, but I don't like them, and I bought one used. If "something should happen" like blowing a rear end, and you NEED to get it into neutral, there's no way, with a ratchet, to "get past" low gear.
 
Check out Cope racing.
I use a reverse manual from them and my 2nd to 3rd gear shift hits lit a sledge hammer and rattles my dashboard
 
I have a cheetah forward pattern manual valve body and i love it on the street. I also have a b&m ratchet shifter. when at a light i just put it in neutral. then when i need to move i just click it back twice and im in first. its also nice when your screwing around. i like to go about 25mph in 2nd gear and then just nail it. it will just flash the converter and take off like a scalded dog. it also adds to the driving experience. its just plain fun to have to shift the car manually. its kinda like a stick car without the clutch pedal and the embarrassing missed shifts.
 
install don't look bad really. I cant remember what stock band adjustments were. But the instructions say to adjust them. you running deep pan or stock?
 
i run a deep pan. i also have the billet front servo

Billet Front Servo w/Springs & Sealing Rings 17342

other then that its a stock rebuild. it shifts firm but not really hard. the trans stays nice and cool too with my cooler set up.
 
my trans builder told me it would firm up my shifts a bit. i dont know much about building transmissions. i just did what he recommended.
 
It's highly recommended

Check with John Cope ,he will tell you what's best for you combination.



https://www.coperacingtrans.com/pro...id=65&osCsid=d581d906aaadbe29a20e04fe73181bbb

Agreed. The stock servo is prone to cracking when the pressure is cranked up and with a manual VB it's cranked up pretty high. I'd upgrade it.

What stall speed converter are you running Josh? If it's a stock or real low stall the shifts will probably be bone jarring harsh. If you've got at least a 3000 stall it'll absorb a lot of the harshness.
 
3500 stall vert!

You should be ok then. It'll shift super firm and under light throttle may be a little jarring but shouldn't knock your front teeth out, LOL... I've also noticed that if you stay on the gas when you shift it isn't as jarring as when you let off and shift while coasting.
 
Good info,Fishy. Have the reverse Cheetah v.b. A member here,P.M ed me. Explained the positive, and negative. Still wants one.Go get it.Thanks,for posting ,Fishy.
 
I honestly went with the full manual valve body to avoid having to screw around with kickdown linkage. I did it basically for that reason alone. I am very happy with my valve body. they are right though about it shifting smoother under load. if your coming to a stop and down shift off the gas it will slam pretty hard. ive had it knock my sun glasses off. but when you nail it and shift its right frickin there.
 
If you get one they usually come with a brass screen type filter. It's a higher flowing unit made mainly for racing. For a street car I don't care for them. The stock type Dacron filter flows plenty good and actually filters out things smaller than bolts and nuts, unlike the brass screen fence wire filter (can you tell I'm not a fan of them, LOL)... IMO your far better off using a Dacron filter.
 
I honestly went with the full manual valve body to avoid having to screw around with kickdown linkage. I did it basically for that reason alone. I am very happy with my valve body. they are right though about it shifting smoother under load. if your coming to a stop and down shift off the gas it will slam pretty hard. ive had it knock my sun glasses off. but when you nail it and shift its right frickin there.

Thats kinda the reason im after it too. Question now is low band apply or not. Looks like a $100 difference.
 
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