I know it is off subject but I saw a shifter with a slot milled in the front with the wire glued into it. You will never even notice it. Just need a machine shop to do it unless you are a ninja with a grinder!
Manual Valve Body
- Thread starter Bad Sport
- Start date
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I know it is off subject but I saw a shifter with a slot milled in the front with the wire glued into it. You will never even notice it. Just need a machine shop to do it unless you are a ninja with a grinder!
Cannot agree more. Biggest POS shifter I ever owned. I had an old B&M Kwik Click I absolutely loved in comparison. The B&M Pro Ratchet is the new version.
MobileCustoms
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge
This is exactly what I have been thinking of trying, for the wires routing...
Aside from that, after reading more of these replies, I am quite certain that my 727 has no low band apply. It will free wheel (coast) in first gear if I let off the gas. It was set up for drag racing. I am rebuilding it before Spring so would like to know more about modifying it for low band apply, for safety reasons.
Not trying to hijack this thread, as I think it does pertain to the OP's subject somewhat at least.
ops:
No worries about hijack Doug, the low band apply isn't something I even thought about, lol. Although I have a 904, but you really need it in the 727, those things are nasty when they explode.
John at CRT
Well-Known Member
Bad sport, which valve body do you have and who made it ?
I don't have it in my possession yet, it's on the way to me. I'm going to look it over and see if I can determine that when it gets here.
From what I have read, the low band apply is "machined" in, would that be a correct assumption?
John at CRT
Well-Known Member
all forward manuals VBs are low band apply
NOT all reverse manuals VBs are low band apply
which valve body do you have and who made it ?
NOT all reverse manuals VBs are low band apply
which valve body do you have and who made it ?
Like stated above, I don't have it in my possession yet, the PO still has it. I should have it sometime this weekend.
I bought it off a member here, and never thought to ask, and I'm not sure he would have known.
Low band apply is blown outta proportion, IMO. It's nice to have, but not necessary. The manual valve body in and of itself pretty much eliminates the problem by allowing you to start in 2nd anyway. It's all common sense in knowing what gear to burnout in and when to shift. Even without front band apply, I would use it and not lose sleep over it. Opinions vary, but that's mine.
Oh I'll use it, just curious if there was a way to tell. I guess when it gets here, I'll see if there any identifiers on it.
Got to clean it real well, and bag it. I still have to order all of the components for the trans rebuild anyway.
And thanks to Doug , now I'm looking at modifying my shifter, lol. I got some crazy thoughts runnin through my beaner.
Got to clean it real well, and bag it. I still have to order all of the components for the trans rebuild anyway.
And thanks to Doug , now I'm looking at modifying my shifter, lol. I got some crazy thoughts runnin through my beaner.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Bruce when you get it you can probably go to the website of the manufacturer and find out exactly what it is by the part #'s on it (unless it's an old one that's out of production, even then a call will usually get the info you need). I have yet to see an aftermarket MVB that wasn't marked real good by the manufacturer so it's usually easy to figure them out. I highly recommend doing that because not all bodies are the same. They generally all require a different band lever than the trans came with as Kim pointed out and if I'm not mistaken some require governor mods where-as some don't.
That's what I'm hoping, I looked at the pics again, and I don't see anything readily visible.
I talked to A&A today and they said if it's one of theirs it's in there as all of their valve bodies have it.
Fingers crossed.
Oh, and BTW about the teeth shattering shifts, I'll just use more glue in the morning. LMAO
I talked to A&A today and they said if it's one of theirs it's in there as all of their valve bodies have it.
Fingers crossed.
Oh, and BTW about the teeth shattering shifts, I'll just use more glue in the morning. LMAO
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I picked up an A&A valve body in a bunch of parts. Turned out to be one of the first ones they made and I couldn't find on their site. One call to Robert and he knew exactly what it was. Their real good at keeping track of their products. I haven't used one of their valve bodies but gonna give this one a shot as it's in real good shape.
Well, I can't imagine this means a dern thing, but these markings are the only ones that aren't on any other valve body I have on the shelf.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
That's the manual valve body you just bought? That's a stock separator plate stamping. I have a couple like that. Must be a manual valve body that someone converted with a kit
Well, I got it cheap enough, so it is what it is I guess.
The stamping does not exist on any other VB I have. Curious.
The stamping does not exist on any other VB I have. Curious.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I didn't mean it was bad. When you said manual valve body I just expected to see an aftermarket valve body. Sorry for the misunderstanding
Oh, I didn't take it that way, it just puzzles me.
What about that 045 cut into the plate, that isn't on any other one either.
What about that 045 cut into the plate, that isn't on any other one either.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Like I mentioned above I have 2 valve bodies with 045 separator plates. Mopar used many different separator plates through the yrs. It's hard telling what numbers you might see cut in one. Some didn't even have numbers at all.
Gotcha, I thought you were referring to those stamps on the side.
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