March serp belt pulleys with factory brackets

[rmchrgr]

Ordered the pulleys today.

Just a note - I have a Denso 60 amp alternator and no one in the Mopar aftermarket really makes a kit with a pulley for this particular setup. After a little searching, I managed to find one from a circle track racing place called KRC Power Steering. Its part# 40140600 and is $40. This is a 'kit' because it comes with a bushing in case the alternator stud is something other than a 15mm. They have a pulley specifically for the 15mm stud but I was unsure which one I have and was too lazy to take the pulley off the alt. and measure it so I got the kit thing. Maybe I can use the bushing for something, always good to have stuff like that around. It was only a few extra bucks for the bushing anyway.

I ordered the crank and water pump pulleys separately from March, ended up being $175. Those particular ones were on sale (I guess) so I'm all in for around $215 + a few bucks for shipping so probably about $235 total which is a little less than I anticipated.

Again, it's pricey but these are fancy billet CNC machined bling parts. I'm stoked, it's gonna be cool. Even though I only tossed the belt once, I don't really want to do it again.

Will post pics when it's all set up.

 

[shobes]

I too pitched my belt every time I hit 7000 and got so sick of it.

I ended up buying an alternator from March to go with my serp setup as I couldn't get it too work with my 60am denso and so far it's working well plus it's a 100 amp which should keep up with my draw with electric fuel pump/fan etc.

I've only hit 7000 a few times since I got it all on and ready to test this morning, but so far I'm a happy guy. Cost a few bucks but I'm hoping problem solved.

 

[rmchrgr]

So I got the serp belt stuff in my car and it seems to work. I ran into a snag with the alternator pulley though. The serp belt pulley is wider than the v-belt pulley so there is less thread exposed on the pulley shaft stud. The original flange nut was not threaded all the way through so it would not grab enough threads to stay put. I put it on but I knew it would come off. I turned the motor over with a remote starter button and it popped right off so that was no good.

Went to the hardware store to see what they had and the selection of nuts is limited in 14mm x 1.5 thread. I basically needed a shallow lock nut or a flange nut that was threaded all the way through. A lock washer would not work because the edges of it would dig into the pulley face and gouge it up. I got a regular hex nut but there's no way to lock it so it would probably end up coming off eventually. I got a wave lock washer that flattens out but I have yet to put it on. If I can get it tight, it will be fine. Other than that, it's Loctite.

I also need to get a 44" belt because the March pulleys are a smaller diameter than the OE type pulleys. The 46" belt was way too big. The 44 fit well and still provided enough adjustment if necessary. I may look into a tension rod set up at some point.

If anyone else does this, I used a Dayco belt, 5060440 which is 44". Obviously different accessory setups will require a different belt.

Here's the pulleys. The crank and water pump are from March, the alternator is from KRC Power Steering.

Here's the original pulley on the Denso alternator with the big 22mm nut. This is where the problem came up because the serp belt pulley is wider than the v belt one and leaves less threads to catch on the stud.

Here's the serp belt pulley on the alt. You can see how the nut is just sitting there.

Here it is in the car. It did not really need any alignment, it was all pretty square from the get-go. Nice stuff. How it does what it's supposed to!

 

[fishy68]

Looks great Greg! Are they anodized or powder coated black? I've seen wave lock washers on alternators before so I think you'll be fine with it. If you want a little insurance you could also use a drop or 2 of light duty (blue I think) Loctite. Light duty so if you ever need to take it off it'll come off easier.

 

[rmchrgr]

Looks great Greg! Are they anodized or powder coated black? I've seen wave lock washers on alternators before so I think you'll be fine with it. If you want a little insurance you could also use a drop or 2 of light duty (blue I think) Loctite. Light duty so if you ever need to take it off it'll come off easier.

Thanks! I thought it came out good too. Looks unassuming enough. They are powder coated black. I think they offer all their stuff with it now.

I used a lock nut with a nylon insert, so far so good.

Drove it 80 miles through NYC traffic to the track today, went 12.20. Pretty sure I was over 7,000 rpm a few times and it stayed on. Sitting at my friends house who lives a few miles from the track. I pulled in to his driveway and smelled coolant. Popped the hood, antifreeze everywhere! Not sure what it is, probably the water pump. Wondering if the smaller pulleys killed it. Glad I got AAA +!! I am a long way from home

 

[fishy68]

I'd think the nylock should work fine. 12.20, nice time for a street driven car! That's a bummer on the leak. My Pop has AAA. Sure is nice. Been thinking about getting it myself

BTW; are both the crank and water pump pulley smaller than the stock pulley's or just the pump? March makes a couple different series. Not sure what series you have but the power and amp series actually slow down the pump and alternator about 10% compared to factory non a/c pulley's

 

[rmchrgr]

I'd think the nylock should work fine.

I don't think it's going anywhere either.

12.20, nice time for a street driven car!

Thanks. Looks like you are at the same level.

I need a better converter for sure, my 60 ft times stink. I believe my car should be in the mid 11s but I'm pretty sure it's tired. 12.20 is the best I've run so far. Previous owner went 11.97 with a 4.30 gear so I am close with a 4.10. I may have run a tick or two faster if I stayed in it to the stripe. A better converter should pick up at least 2 tenths. Stock stroke small block with a single plane intake=no torque.

That's a bummer on the leak.

Yeah, it happens. I've done a lot of water pumps in my life. I hate coolant. I had an idea that it was ready to go, I had smelled coolant before I took it to the track but there was no visible leaks. There was some runout in the bearing and I could hear it groan a little when you turned the flange by hand. I had loaned one of my other friends my coolant pressure tester over the summer and he never gave it back to me, probably would have been useful to have it when I needed it. :angryfir:

My Pop has AAA. Sure is nice. Been thinking about getting it myself,

It's nice to have the backup if you're far from home like I was. Didn't think I would actually ever need it but I am glad I had it. I did have to pay for tolls both ways which was over $120 with a tow truck. I was only an hour and change from home but I was in another state, had to take the NJ turnpike and go over two bridges to get through the city. Still, it would have been several hundred dollars to get home without it so it's worth it in the end.

BTW; are both the crank and water pump pulley smaller than the stock pulley's or just the pump? March makes a couple different series. Not sure what series you have but the power and amp series actually slow down the pump and alternator about 10% compared to factory non a/c pulley's

The water pump pulley is smaller for sure, I believe the crank pulley is too. The belt is 2" shorter than the one I had on it before.