Massive caster variance Side to side

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The reason I ask is I am re-doing my alignment from last week as I set my ride height too low and didn't pay attention to the bump stops. So I got all the desired numbers but now have to raise the front and Ill lose my 3/4* of - camber. If this is a viable way of obtaining negative camber safely then Ill do it. I'm asking the details for this reason.

Thanks.

I thought I saw a thread on here about cutting and plating the upper control arm to place the upper ball joint in a more favorable position, but I am plagued by my tech challenged brain and cannot find it. If I remember correctly, there was a lot of nay saying and just spend the money on adjustables. but I am a cheap broke bastard that has confidence in his welding skills.....so there is that.
 
I had one K member that I installed that was so messed up, I could just see that it had excessive negative caster on the right compared to the other side. Closer inspection showed a kink near the strut rod hole. Looking closer, the whole K member was twisted slightly clockwise looking from above and the RH strut rod area was pushed in. I had to swap in another K member and trash the bent one.
 
clementine said:
Did both bolts near the LBJ get them? How much camber did they produce for you? Did you use stock bolts or something longer?
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Only pass side needed it on mine
Both bolts got one washer each. Stock bolts.
Using stock eccentics only its give and take with respect to caster /camber.. i could not just set each independent of the other. Toe is its own thing. So u have to give up one to get more of other.
Every time i set camber on pass side i was losing all my caster. So i cheated it with washers to hold the caster steady while kicking out the bottom of the spindle to add more (-) camber..only works one way tho.. can only go from (+) to (-).. perhaps u could plane the knuckle or the LBJ to go the other way but idk.. 1/8 made big difference so little goes long way
Not taking credit for this.. as this intel cam via a Bbody post from the yoda of alignment, K-dawger..
 
clementine said:
I thought I saw a thread on here about cutting and plating the upper control arm to place the upper ball joint in a more favorable position, but I am plagued by my tech challenged brain and cannot find it. If I remember correctly, there was a lot of nay saying and just spend the money on adjustables. but I am a cheap broke bastard that has confidence in his welding skills.....so there is that.
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Bro.. if u got the stones, cut it up and burn it down.. showcase ur skills. Prove all the haters wrong, engineer it and make it work. Post pics for all the followers that come after. Be the legend everyone else is just sitting on their phone talking about..
 
Syleng1 said:
Also,
if you loosen your k frame bolts you can “Shift”it one way or the other.
But Rusty is right. There is a tool for pushing on brake pedal up to steering wheel or front seat. Hood prop rod works too. Like Leslie makes.

I’m not a fan of a “do it yourself alignment.” Maybe to get it close but without turn tables, I believe your pissing in the wind.
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Pissing into the wind? I like that... old school, haven't heard that in a while... :lol:
 
Using a plumb bob the 4 wheels location need to be precisely plotted on the floor to check the squareness of the suspension corners. An adjustable strut rod allows for adjustment and there are other ways to adjust corners. Yes this affects caster. Does that you tube "expert" show this procedure?



A plumb bob, plumb bob level, or plummet, is a weight, usually with a pointed tip on the bottom, suspended from a string and used as a vertical direction as a reference line, or plumb-line. It is a precursor to the spirit level and used to establish a vertical datum
 
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