master cyclinder can it be moved

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moparraceman

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have a 72 duster with a 440 motor stock master cyclinder cant get the valve cover off on drivers side sugesstion thanks
 
I had a '70 with a 440.

Part of the trick was to leave the top side low to its mounting surface & rotate the bottom edge up.

There was some wiggling involved & it took a while.

That was also over 30 years ago & I promised myself to never add another 440 to another A-body.

Just too much of a PITA for street driving & the related maintenance.
 
Sure. You can put it anywhere, really. The Aussies put um on the passenger's side. Some postal vehicles have them moved over there too, but have a long bar that rotates and pushes the rod in. But if you don't need to move slap to the other side, the MP kit or similar will work.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Sure. You can put it anywhere, really. The Aussies put um on the passenger's side. Some postal vehicles have them moved over there too, but have a long bar that rotates and pushes the rod in. But if you don't need to move slap to the other side, the MP kit or similar will work.
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Im not sure i understand how the pushrod is attached to the brake pedal when using the offset adapter..How do you move the pushrod over to match the new offset hole?
 
Most I have seen people simply use a longer pin/bolt to connect to the brake pedal.
 
oldkimmer said:
U can make the push rod 1 inch longer, or buy a adjustable p/r from Doctor Diff. Kim
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yes but as far as moving the push rod over to match the offset adapter, how do you do that because the pushrod is already bolted to the side of the brake pedal..?
 
mopower440 said:
yes but as far as moving the push rod over to match the offset adapter, how do you do that because the pushrod is already bolted to the side of the brake pedal..?
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I bought a 1/2" thick offset adapter on ebay , way cheaper than either one listed above. Was black anodized, fit perfect, but I forgot how far over it moved the cyl. tho.
You can cut and thread ur existing rod, and thread both ends , then use a 1/2'' threaded rod coupling to put it back together, adjust it to the same thickness of the adapter , to keep the stock pedal height , weld it when u have it the way u want it , and grind off (I turned mine down in a lathe), to get a bunch of the bulk off to make it look like something that belongs on a car. You will have to grind the original rod size a little to get it round enough to thread , no biggee -------
Not really enough of an angle change to worry about , mine has been on the car for a few yrs. , no problems. With raised port heads, I still had to mill the lower fin off my mopar perf. valve cover tho , to get it off.
I even had s/steel flex lines built , so I could loosen the bolts and swing the master cyl over a little if needed , but don't have to do that .
 
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