Master Cyl. Question

-
D

Dizzydean

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
892
Reaction score
34
Location
Richland (Tri Citys) Wash
I did the front disc swap a while ago and am now getting to the master cyl. This is the one called for to replace the all drum. So far the only positive is it bolts up. Do I need to replace the plunger? Is this even going to work. Ive had it on the shelf for a while so no returning it. Second is there a way to disconnect the brake pedal. The 50+ year old pedal isn't matching everything else I'm cleaning and painting.

DSC_0006.JPG


DSC_0005.JPG


DSC_0004.JPG
 
Technically you are looking at one M/C for manual brakes (has a rod) and one M/C for power brakes (no rod). It would be easier for you to buy the M/C for manual brakes if it comes with the rod. The only difference between the two is the presence of the rod. The rod can be switched from one to the other. The rod is held in place by a small, square "O" ring inside the piston, at the end of the rod. By putting it in a vise, you can separate the two, overcoming the locking pressure of the "O" ring. The problem is locating a new "O" ring. I don't know if it is available separately. Good luck.
 
In my 40 years working on these cars I have never got a master cylinder that came with the rod, I have always needed to transfer the rod from one piston to the other.

That being said I do not know if the rods are the same from drum to disc.


Alan
 
I believe that the rods are the same. In the past I have added "power" to a manual brake system which involves removing the rod and reusing the M/C which now bolts to the booster (rod is now in the booster). Booster will come with linkage and new rod to the pedal.
 
So if the OP is adding power, then no need for the rod, if not he needs to move the rod, some rod works on both.


Alan
 
My memory is not like fine wine- it is not improving with age. I did many of these back in the day, but that is how I remember it.
 
When I did the KH swap... I found the best master cylinder to use was for a 1968 340 dart application.
I tried the '71 and so forth and they didn't work right, maybe just shitty parts...
 
The rod works even in a 1999 Breeze MC (normally used w/ a booster), and the pedal even winds up in the same place after adding the 2-4 bolt adapter plate. I tore a new rubber lock bushing in a test fit (before I swapped over the dust bellows). I recall buying another from Dr Diff or such. Might even be on ebay. Some people have cut a piece from rubber tubing, which "should work", but why risk your brake rod popping out. You can clean and paint your old rod, and new ones usually come w/ yellow chromate coating.

Breeze MC pedal same position.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top