Master cylinder for 10" front drum swap

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xLURKxDOGx

xLURKxDOGx

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I need to know what master cylinder I need for my upgraded 10" front drums on a stock brake syst 63 valiant single reservoir. I found one at the junkyard but I believe it's for a disk/drum out of a 70's volare and not sure if that will do. Am I going to have to re work the system for the 2 reservoir? New proportions valve??


Thanks!!!
Jake
 
Any drum/drum dual MC will work. You don't need a proportioning valve if you don't have discs. But you will need a dual system safety switch and the hard lines that connect to the MC. Just look for the parts for a 67-up Dart or Valiant with drums. Do not use a disc/drum master.
 
Ok, thanks for the info!!!! I assume I can get the hardliners from the vehicle I get the MC from????


Jake
 
AJ/FormS said:
You do realize why they engineered the dual system, and it's safety advantage tho, right?
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Correct. Thats why i am asking what i need and not stating that i dont need. :toothy1:

Jake
 
I went to dual MC in my three 64 & 65 Mopars. In all, I kept the existing distribution block, plugged the rear port, put a 1/4 to 3/16 adapter in the top port and plumbed to existing rear tube w/ 3/16" union. I added an adj prop valve near the MC in case I ever switch to front disks. You can get all the dbl-flare adapters in bubble packs at Autozone.

Many MC's would work, either disk or drum, manual or power. I started w/ an MC from a 99 Breeze w/ ABS, so used on all 3. I used a 2-4 bolt adapter on two, one manual and one w/ original booster. The other used the booster from the Breeze on Dart firewall brackets (in my avatar). For manual, insure you put a new rubber bushing on the end of the brake rod to secure it and get one with the smallest bore you can (mine is 7/8"D).
 
BillGrissom said:
I went to dual MC in my three 64 & 65 Mopars. In all, I kept the existing distribution block, plugged the rear port, put a 1/4 to 3/16 adapter in the top port and plumbed to existing rear tube w/ 3/16" union. I added an adj prop valve near the MC in case I ever switch to front disks. You can get all the dbl-flare adapters in bubble packs at Autozone.

Many MC's would work, either disk or drum, manual or power. I started w/ an MC from a 99 Breeze w/ ABS, so used on all 3. I used a 2-4 bolt adapter on two, one manual and one w/ original booster. The other used the booster from the Breeze on Dart firewall brackets (in my avatar). For manual, insure you put a new rubber bushing on the end of the brake rod to secure it and get one with the smallest bore you can (mine is 7/8"D).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info bill! I might try using the one i have then and going the same route.

Jake
 
Just make sure if your using a dual master with drums all the way around that you have a dual master that is for just drum brakes. You need the residual valve in both ports not just the front.
 
64_Barracuda said:
Just make sure if your using a dual master with drums all the way around that you have a dual master that is for just drum brakes. You need the residual valve in both ports not just the front.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks a lot!!!


Jake
 
64_Barracuda said:
... residual valve in both ports not just the front.
Click to expand...
My understanding is that residual valves haven't been needed since wheel cylinder springs changed to a smooth cup (or tight spring coil) that better supports the rubber cups, probably in the 1970's, but research for yourself. The purpose for both is to keep the rubber tight in the bore so no air gets past when the pistons retract. If you ever change to disk brakes, you must insure the MC has no residual valve in the disk port or they can cause the pads to drag.
 
BillGrissom said:
My understanding is that residual valves haven't been needed since wheel cylinder springs changed to a smooth cup (or tight spring coil) that better supports the rubber cups, probably in the 1970's, but research for yourself. The purpose for both is to keep the rubber tight in the bore so no air gets past when the pistons retract. If you ever change to disk brakes, you must insure the MC has no residual valve in the disk port or they can cause the pads to drag.
Click to expand...

So that is true I believe if your going 77-up FMJ body. I think 76 and below are the old style. The easiest way is to pull the whole set up from what ever you use as a donor car.
 
Actually I didn't mean the "new design" applies just to FMJ cars, only that your brakes have been rebuilt. Every rebuild kit I have seen for my 60's cars has the "new style" springs & cups. Ditto for complete wheel cylinders. Perhaps one case where you don't want NOS.
 
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