Max lift/stock slugs

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rumblefish360

rumblefish360

I have escaped the EVIL Empire State!
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This is something I have not retained or learned. What is the max lift a stock slug Magnum engine can take. In my particular case, it would be the 5.9.

Take the head out of the equation. Consider the head able to lift the valve as much as needed.
 
Good question Rob. Remember though, the duration really has more to do with it, as the when and how long the valves are open is more important than the how much. Remember too, the Magnum engines have a lower deck height than the LA, something else to throw into the equation. Sorry I don't know anymore specifics than that.
 
True.

Here is my deal. I have a 2000 5.9 Dodge Durango engine ready to come out and be installed into a '79 Dodge Magnum without the computer. So far I have purchased a RPM, Hooker Super Comp headers that will go into a 2-1/2 exhaust, a B&M flex plate for the neutral balanced Summit verter, a low stall unit.

The car also has a 9-1/4, 3.55 gears, tires are slated to be 245/60/15's.
I also need a (in-line?) quite fuel pump for this total street driver.

While I would call this "A not so balanced set up", it is only to get the car up and running now and I'll address the short comings later, which would be cam and heads.
So I'm now looking at cams for later on.
 
I would try this.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p74143/overview/

I bet that will give you all the fuel you will need. I would regulate it, but then, "I" would regulate any electric pump, just so I would KNOW how much pressure I have, know what I mean?

Sorry I don't know any more specifics about your valve clearance question. I saw no one had answered and thought I would at least try to help.
 
Thanks Bobby.

So what cams do you guys run with your bone stock short block Magnums?
 
If the motor is out, why not just clay it? Two heads gaskets is all you need considering you're changing the intake exhaust cam anyway. This way you can get 100% correct reading on piston to valve clearance. Just sayin.
 
A buddy of mine was running ~.570 lift with 1.7 rockers in his 5.9 Magnum. Stock short block with ported stock heads. We have no idea what the ptv clearance was, but upon inspection after it blew we didn't see any evidence of a valve contacting the piston.

On a side note, if you run a stiff spring (MP .600" lift springs for example) switch to one piece valves. It's well known in the Dakota world, and I have personally seen 2 engines blow because a valve snapped in half at the joining point. My buddy's engine was one of them.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Thanks Bobby.

So what cams do you guys run with your bone stock short block Magnums?
Click to expand...


This is the cam I was running in my carbed 5.9 magnum. Other than valvesprings (I used the MP .525" lift springs) no modiications were needed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-746-9

IMO it would work well in a street car. It has a decent idle if you're at the exact rpm, but overall is pretty mild and made good vacuum.
 
1970 Duster, you make a good point. As soon as my head gaskets come in....
The engine is not out but still in the Durango. Though dismantling it in truck or stand is no issue at all. The claying of the piston to head & valve clearance is a good idea before I get into it. And also why I asked the forum members what they may have done.

But the clearances I find will change. (P-V)

UOP, that cam is a "Magnum" cam and not an "LA" cam correct?
That cam would work really well for my intended purpose I think.
 
Now this was a 5.2 I put LA heads on with external oiling and a 284/484 purple shaft flat tappet for my son, going by memory.

It was 2-3 degrees advanced and had room all over except when the intake valve was chasing the piston, it started to get tight, maybe .090 thou.

With no valve reliefs the duration and intake opening after TDC was the only critical spot.

Check that out close.
 
Been thinking about this as well in choosing a cam for my 5.9 build.

I know aftermarket pistons that come up to deck height have valve reliefs. The stock pistons are down .050 and have no reliefs.

I'm planning to do the clay test with one of my new IMM heads using the stock cam. I think I will also map the valve lift with a degree wheel, with checker springs in one of stock old heads to get an idea of how duration changes will come into play before ordering a cam.
 
rumblefish360 said:
True.

Here is my deal. I have a 2000 5.9 Dodge Durango engine ready to come out and be installed into a '79 Dodge Magnum without the computer. So far I have purchased a RPM, Hooker Super Comp headers that will go into a 2-1/2 exhaust, a B&M flex plate for the neutral balanced Summit verter, a low stall unit.

The car also has a 9-1/4, 3.55 gears, tires are slated to be 245/60/15's.
I also need a (in-line?) quite fuel pump for this total street driver.

While I would call this "A not so balanced set up", it is only to get the car up and running now and I'll address the short comings later, which would be cam and heads.
So I'm now looking at cams for later on.
Click to expand...
so, what was the original engine?
 
A 318. I purchased the car from the 1st and only owner.
It really has, er, had an amazing history. He recorded everything done to the car including light bulb changes in the radio. Wiper blade change outs. If it was touched, it was recorded.

After 10 years, he suddenly stopped. And with a tick over 325K.
I asked him where the heck he went to do that and his reply was everywhere except Alaska and countries south of Mexico. He the. Gave it to his daughter for 4 years of collage which was 4 hours away on a clear drive. He side complained that she was home most every weekend. Then he sighed and started up again.

His son got the car for 4 years of collage at the same collage. Now I'm thinking while he said even though he was rarely home, where the heck does a young guy go? Hummmm, Philly for cheese steaks? I know I would and keep on going after. Lunch to Maryland for crab cakes!

He then used the car for the next 10 years as a daily commuter on a 80 mile round trip into the city. Hummmm, let's do some math on the known mileage.

80 X 48 allowing for 4 weeks vacation = 19,200 X 10 years = 192,000 + the 325 K = 517,,000 and where not counting Lord knows how many round trips by the daughter and unknown road trips by his son and the here and there's of being the only car for many years. Grocery shopping, church, school, family gatherings.

That 318 was removed and installed in my Duster which can be found here in a thread I started OOTB run at the track was a 15.14 ET with only cam bearing replacement and bolt on parts with a very similar cam as above, just a Hyd. Cam.

I then installed a 400 & removed it for my new Duster, a '71.

This Magnum will be used without the computer but with the factory drives on the front.
 
Idaho, .050 I the hole huh? Good to know.

Thanks UOP

Cornet 500: Will do! Anytime that cam moves from the factory/grinders intended spot, it can get dicey! I moves my solid Comp cam a few and the intake valve was so close to the slug that the rest of the piston was black from running rich but the intake valve relief was shinny like the new set of slugs they were. Like shinny eye brows.
Whew!!!!
 
As far as fuel pump I run a Walbro GSL-392 return with regulator. It is quiet, cost $100.00 or less and will pump enough fuel and be good to 600HP Easily. I have a single unit on my Scamp in my Avatar. 410 Stroker. I run a separate fuel system for the Juice.

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/WALBRO-255LPH-External-FUEL-PUMP-GSL392-GSL-392-Inline-/360141663204?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53da1dabe4&vxp=mtr"]Walbro 255LPH External Fuel Pump GSL392 GSL 392 Inline | eBay[/ame]

My 67 TT Project I will be running 3 of them.

View attachment phpmyA57TPM.jpg
 
That doesn't give that pump a problem? They are rated at 60 PSI and you'd need to regulate them to under 10 PSI for a carburetor. Will they last like that?
 
RustyRatRod said:
That doesn't give that pump a problem? They are rated at 60 PSI and you'd need to regulate them to under 10 PSI for a carburetor. Will they last like that?
Click to expand...

Guy's have been using this set up with great success. I am using the Mallory 4307-M Regulator. My Fuel Pressure is rock steady at 6.5 PSI. I ran an 8an feed and 8an return. I have a stock sumped and modified tank that I added a bigger return to by welding in a 8an bung up high on the passenger side of the tank. I also added a new vent that runs up the filler neck that has 3 good size loops in it just inside the rear quarter and then it turns downward and exits the floor behind the rear tire with a lil filter on it.

The only problem I had with my set up was using a Liquid Filled FP Gauge. I changed it out to a non filled gauge and it took care of what I thought was a fuel creep problem. With the Liquid filled gauge I would set the fuel pressure to 6.5 psi, go on a run and when I got back it would be at 2 psi. So the natural though process was oh man I gotta re adjust it hot. Well doing that the fuel pressure would push through the needle and seat flooding the bowls. Actually UOP helped me with this problem and by changing out to a NON Liquid filled gauge. It fixed it instantly & I have burned at least 15 Tanks of fuel through it and burned through 7 bottles of Nitrous so far.
FP is solid, steady and ready!

Another good thing about this pump is it will LIFT fuel up to 5 Feet so there is no need to mount it lower than your exit on the fuel cell.

Pretty sure member UOP has a similar set up using the Walbro.

This is where the out of the box thinking will mess with peoples thought process.

I learned about this set up over on theturboforums.com and I believe also on yellowbullet.com

Regulator....... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4307m

View attachment IMG_5050.jpg

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View attachment IMG_5058.jpg

View attachment phpp3XXhiPM.jpg

View attachment IMG_5095.jpg

View attachment phpujtDoOPM.jpg

View attachment phpUf4RwRPM.jpg

View attachment phpq62zJXPM.jpg

View attachment php0mWd43PM.jpg
 
I need to correct something I said in one of my previous posts. The cam my buddy was running was not ~.570" lift, but closer to .550". We don't have the tech card at the moment since it's at another friend's shop, but I will check the cam card next time I'm over there. I appologize for the mix-up.
 
Oh!good note UOP, in a stock slugged Magnum engine?

Mad, you crack me up you wild man you!

At most. Down the road, I'll get a set of nicely done EQ heads and a cam for the 360 that still works with 3.55's and a 245/60/15 tire. The OE fuel line is 5/16. I'd like to reuse that for now. I'll do a 3/8 if need be for later.

I'm not sure what the return line is but is bet without looking it is a 1/4 inch tube.

Now this info is really good for my big block Duster I'll get to later.
 
Thanks for clarifying on the fuel pump. You did a real nice job on that.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Oh!good note UOP, in a stock slugged Magnum engine?

Mad, you crack me up you wild man you!

At most. Down the road, I'll get a set of nicely done EQ heads and a cam for the 360 that still works with 3.55's and a 245/60/15 tire. The OE fuel line is 5/16. I'd like to reuse that for now. I'll do a 3/8 if need be for later.

I'm not sure what the return line is but is bet without looking it is a 1/4 inch tube.

Now this info is really good for my big block Duster I'll get to later.
Click to expand...

Welcome to Magnum land,lol. The engineering in these,are a nice surprise. You have it sorted out pretty well. If you go v belt,the Professional Products balancer & O.E.M. pulleys work nice. If long tube headers,mock up on the engine stand for clearance . The truck mount bosses ,occasionally hit on pass. car long tubes. Good luck.
 
OK! Thanks Bomber. I just had my left hand man tank the engine yesterday morning.
(I say left hand man because not only did I break my left index finger but he is also a young gun looking to learn. Best to learn by actually doing it.)

I need to extract two broken intake bolts, one in each head. The engine is in a cradle on a dolly for now. I'll test fit the super comp's later on. The block bosses do not look like they will cause an issue. The B & E super comps are a little different than the A body units.
I'll let everyone know how that goes.

I'll be reusing the factory Magnum serpentine set up minus the A/C. I do t have it in the pocket to do everything at once. I still have to get a 360 oil pan, oil pump & pick up for the car.....back to summit racing I go.....
 
One more question, on the RPM intake there is a odd threaded hole at the front of the intake with a odd 5/16 x 18 thread count. What was/is this for? Seems like a weird size to me. Nothing on the stock engine was bolted there.
 
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