mech Roller vs Mech flat tappet cam Q

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The issue with bushing has nothing to do with the uncovering of holes at max lift like the small blocks. It has to do with the piotential for catastrophic engine failure as a result of a valvetrain failure, where the lifter can be forced out of it's bore, which means the lower end loses it's oil pressure. I've seen it happen, and I will not run a non-bushed block in small or big block with a solid roller. With the clarification of use, I would NOT go roller. I'd be running a solid flat tappet. Use of the fast rate-of-lift profiles for the .875 lifter profile will make you need much less spring pressure, give you a more stable valvetrain at the peak rpms, and make plenty of power provided the heads can flow enough for it. If the Source heads are not ported, they will have a hard time making 600hp with a milder, reliability-type cam. Drag racing and endurance racing require different cam/valvetrain thinking. Rollers are heavier, harder on all the valvetrain, and IMO if they are done right, require lifter bushing. You can make 600hp easilly if the heads flow 320-330. If they only flow 290-300 you will be harder pressed to do that with a cam that is valvetrain friendly.
 
Thanks MOPER!!
I am going to stick with a solid 249 Dur 570 lift and 107 LSA custom grind for my road racer application.
The Cam Man said the same thing for an endurance non hassle application like road racing to stick with a mech flat tappet cam in the RB block-SAFE.For racing applications the RB block should be modified to handle a Mech Roller all out

Plus I will Have my heads and manifold ported
I was ready to spend alot more money with a mech roller set0up! Cool there still are companies that put good advice before maximizing profit
(DIAMONDBACK RACING and engines) ALL MOPAR ALL THE THE TIME

Thanks Guy's!
 
ThANKS FOR GOING OUT OF YOUR WAY WITH THE GREAT PICS---WAS A GOOD POST FOR ME!!
 
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