Mechanical six pack idle circuits

-

68 HEMI GTS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2008
Messages
1,005
Reaction score
972
Location
in the garage
i posted some of this over on for B bodies only but thought it may be of interest for some guys over here also as it seems a lot of the “A” body guys run the 4782 & 4783 direct connection or “hustle stuff” carbs. In my case I’m running a set on a 511 low deck with Indy SR heads and solid 260/266 @ .050 camshaft. I decided to run a 4412 “500 cfm” center instead of the anemic 4782 center. The issue I experienced was the unadjustabe outboard idle circuits just did not supply enough fuel at idle on my low vacuum big cube engine. My first “fix” is I went up .010 on the weep holes that supply the fuel. Unsatisfied with that I ended up adding full idle circuits as well as adjustable idle bleeds. While this was a bit involved, I’ve been able to really dial in the cabs to have excellent A/F readings at idle & cruise while maintains great drivability and WOT performance.

Tools needed;
Numbered drill bits
Small harbor freight drill press
Center punch
Some QFT/proform metering blocks ( I went without powervalves although you could add those too if desired).

For adjustable air bleeds
8/32 tap & 8/32 brass set screws

First step is identify where we need to add the circuits

The main body face is predrilled although it will need to be drilled slightly deeper
DAAA696E-C14F-4BB7-B80E-96A82B304AFB.jpeg


This will be where the idle circuit passes through to the base plate
3043CBA2-963C-4357-B5E9-8C0DC7471E3C.jpeg
E9A3C37B-5019-42B1-9E40-0984ED81C449.jpeg
16C10E6F-9D04-447D-9685-5FA330B13AA1.jpeg
2D878583-4B61-4480-B286-9690C0B644BC.jpeg


Origional weep holes. I plugged these with brass tube and epoxy to kill them.
9C614F04-8A13-42D9-A9CF-E37CE4E68ECB.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Time to fire up the drill
FF9C945E-9F6E-4D18-A69E-D1EFAF52D20F.jpeg
BFAC3195-92ED-4B37-8CA3-37E8A8EAE307.jpeg
53A43D52-6AA7-483A-84B1-09F2AEE32C6F.jpeg
D0A8CC06-0AE6-4C08-BA1D-9D6187D7D2E9.jpeg


As you can see this just needs touched up with a hand drill
90062A95-6BEB-4B75-A322-8FE08D7C0407.jpeg


These will need to be hand drilled, this is your new idle fuel supply. Steady hand and take your time.
6C14F4A8-E604-45DB-99FD-08E6315C31E1.jpeg
CE0B5713-E7E1-498D-8B9E-D532F0C3827C.jpeg
 
I went with these blocks because they were the cheapest quality block I could find


High idle feed restriction. Seems to be a topic of debate. I like to run them lower.
E6C0DC12-8186-42E7-B23E-642436B701FE.jpeg


Will relocate to here
1192159D-1563-4664-8FE7-105D55E4F1A0.jpeg


These blocks have extra emulsion, don’t need that so I plugged the middle.
4DAF6643-D98E-4083-9E83-28FB15E5B8D2.jpeg


Ready for assembly
7F17E0A2-1E03-4842-9B28-26D80D9F5910.jpeg
E55F24F3-5BA9-46DE-AC47-EDC4B2C3ACC1.jpeg
 
Still unable to obtain my desired A/F target I pulled the carbs back down and added adjutable idle bleeds to all 3 carbs

29355CED-8915-4AC4-BABC-2561DF861F71.jpeg
A4307963-066A-4283-A3B1-23467919CE5B.jpeg
867F1D3E-686A-498B-9B4C-381A99C1FAF5.jpeg
6AA42C52-6840-4FF0-AE1D-AEC95F059388.jpeg


Set screws installed, you can drill and swap blanks till you get what you need.
86AF848C-60FD-408A-8706-A9862193C229.jpeg


Once I got it where I was happy I relocated the supply line and insulated the fuel lines, I have wrap too insulate the fuel log for long drives. It just looks like crap so I’ll leave it off for local cruising.

BD985F58-EFB2-482C-99BF-30017E82F00E.jpeg



With some tuning and tweaking she’s right on. I would caution that if you plan on going off the deep end that you have a quality A/F meter as well as a good understanding of carburators and what you are affecting with your changes.

 
Last edited:
Ohmygod, I hope she doesn't get pregnant...I just nutted

DAMN that car sounds good
 
I still shouldn’t have to take any crap off mildly modded hell cats either, unless it’s from a high speed roll. :steering:

 
How do adjustable bleeds "adjust?" I've no experience with 'em
 
How do adjustable bleeds "adjust?" I've no experience with 'em

you have 4 air bleeds on a normal 2 circuit holley. 2 outter bleeds control air to the idle/transfer circuit while the inner bleeds control air to the main circuit. You adjust them to fine tune your a/f ratio along with some other factors.
 
No I mean how do they adjust mechanically? Do they have interference fit like some rockers and you just turn them like needle valves , or do you pull them and change them like fuel jets or what? I'm 72, never screwed with 'em. No doubt you have some awesome stuff
 
No I mean how do they adjust mechanically? Do they have interference fit like some rockers and you just turn them like needle valves , or do you pull them and change them like fuel jets or what? I'm 72, never screwed with 'em. No doubt you have some awesome stuff

no, in this case I drill them different sizes with numbered drill bits and swap them out till I get what I need.
 
Wow I only just seen this and I'm very impressed indeed!
I have a 71 GTX that I'm gonna run in UK Superstocks.
It will be a 512 with a six-barrel set up.
Now I know exactly where to set my sites!
In the high tens lol:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
One thing I should add to the thread as I did some intake work that really helped out the drivability and distribution on the bigger cube engine. Idle quality greatly improved. I believe it’s faster as well but I changed a few things so I can’t quantify a number.

IMG_6109.jpeg


IMG_6108.jpeg
 
-
Back
Top