Mid plate mounting

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Mine from competition engineering must have been for a centered engine or a dragster. Semi pita, I had to cut off some on the passenger side and then welded it to the driver side. I made my own mounts with some heavier gauge steel. The last pic is the spacers for the crankshaft @Cope .
I still need to shape it obviously but I am just in the process of lining up my engine and trans front and mid plates as of last weekend.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
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Mine from competition engineering must have been for a centered engine or a dragster. Semi pita, I had to cut off some on the passenger side and then welded it to the driver side. I made my own mounts with some heavier gauge steel. The last pic is the spacers for the crankshaft @Cope .
I still need to shape it obviously but I am just in the process of lining up my engine and trans front and mid plates as of last weekend.
Click to expand...
That was like mine from S&W was for a center set up,so had to trim a lot off on the passenger side to get it to fit then cut out for the exhaust. Course found out about the center when installing the engine, at least you were smart to use just a block lol wish I did that first instead of what I did. Had to name a spacer to weld to the frame to weld the mount tabs too on the second pic.

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Matts440 said:
That was like mine from S&W was for a center set up,so had to trim a lot off on the passenger side to get it to fit then cut out for the exhaust. Course found out about the center when installing the engine, at least you were smart to use just a block lol wish I did that first instead of what I did. Had to name a spacer to weld to the frame to weld the mount tabs too on the second pic.

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They oughta tell people that their products are for non offset applications or send a little chunk of steel to make either way...it makes me have to ask more questions about other stuff that I need to buy since it's not a straight forward build.
I'm glad I have a lot of extra spare and garbage blocks and transmissions, the one in my car right now is just the case. It's much easier to wrestle around 40 pounds vs 100 plus.
Which headers are you going to run ?
I have a low deck and just got my 2.1875 primary tti (polished ceramic) and really don't want to have the in and out a million times, guess I just wonder how much I need to trim on the lower side to clear the mid plate. Your install looks good!!!
 
Matts440 said:
Well glad I dont have to worry about that, when I had my converter made I told them about the mid plate and they spaced the bolts mounts out for it. But good to know for those that need to buy the bolts.
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Who did your converter?
 
MOPARMAGA said:
They oughta tell people that their products are for non offset applications or send a little chunk of steel to make either way...it makes me have to ask more questions about other stuff that I need to buy since it's not a straight forward build.
I'm glad I have a lot of extra spare and garbage blocks and transmissions, the one in my car right now is just the case. It's much easier to wrestle around 40 pounds vs 100 plus.
Which headers are you going to run ?
I have a low deck and just got my 2.1875 primary tti (polished ceramic) and really don't want to have the in and out a million times, guess I just wonder how much I need to trim on the lower side to clear the mid plate. Your install looks good!!!
Click to expand...
Mines a twin turbo car, just had to make room for the down pipes so most of the top corners were cut out, thought I had a pic but I don't. Sorry cant help on the header part. My converter is from PTC and they ask about a mid plate and the thickness to adjust the mount pads on it.
 
Matts440 said:
Mines a twin turbo car, just had to make room for the down pipes so most of the top corners were cut out, thought I had a pic but I don't. Sorry cant help on the header part. My converter is from PTC and they ask about a mid plate and the thickness to adjust the mount pads on it.
Click to expand...
Yeah I should have remembered that when I asked lol.
 
I didn’t read all the posts when I saw how old this was but it you set things up right like they were in my Daytona you can bolt the engine in a run it like an engine test stand. With a powerglide flywheel you have everything that is needed. I had a bad oil leak in my Keith Black 572 that I thought was the rear main and after I changed it I still had a leak. So I was able to run the engine and I found the Charlie’s oil pans wide lip was sitting on number five rear main cap stud. Easy fix.
 
I too used the Comp, Eng. mid-plate withe spacer with it "same thickness as the mid-plate". The problem "IMO" it makes the flex plate bolts to short and these are .500 long bolts. And to compound the problem these are "slim headed" bolts! Normal headed bolts are to thick and interfere. Solution> I bought Pontiac flex plate bolts. their length is perfect. "Grind the bolt heads down to the slim type head bolt.
 
Coffee&Cars said:
I too used the Comp, Eng. mid-plate withe spacer with it "same thickness as the mid-plate". The problem "IMO" it makes the flex plate bolts to short and these are .500 long bolts. And to compound the problem these are "slim headed" bolts! Normal headed bolts are to thick and interfere. Solution> I bought Pontiac flex plate bolts. their length is perfect. "Grind the bolt heads down to the slim type head bolt.
Click to expand...
Are the small and big block Pontiac flex plate the same?
 
Coffee&Cars said:
I too used the Comp, Eng. mid-plate withe spacer with it "same thickness as the mid-plate". The problem "IMO" it makes the flex plate bolts to short and these are .500 long bolts. And to compound the problem these are "slim headed" bolts! Normal headed bolts are to thick and interfere. Solution> I bought Pontiac flex plate bolts. their length is perfect. "Grind the bolt heads down to the slim type head bolt.
Click to expand...
I dont know much about the pontiac motors. What engines are we talking about that you got flexplate bolts for? 389? 455? or some other motors i dont know about?

Also, What about the Flywheel bolts?
They are 7/8" long. Would that be too long and stick out the front side of crank flange- no problem there, unless it hits the block.

The ARP bolts look to maybe have an unthreaded shank under the head-would that pose a problem with the flexplate and spacer, or just pass through?
ARP 240-2801 ARP Pro Series Flywheel Bolts | Summit Racing
 
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