Mini Starter Help

-

superchargeddrt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2009
Messages
2,447
Reaction score
1,210
Location
Pittsburgh, Pa.
Hey Guy's,
Well it finally happened! The rebuilt starter that I put in my car in 1981 is starting to act up. So I decided to order a new mini starter. Summit wanted $159.00 + tax ( went to their show room) but I decided to check Rock Auto Parts to see what they wanted for one. I hope that I ordered the right starter. I ordered one for a 2000 Ram 1500 (link below). It said that it was a "OFFSET GEAR REDUCTION; OE Manufacturer: Denso; Power: 1.4KW". The only thing that concerns me is the word "offset". Did I order the right starter? Oh by the way the cost was only $91.00 delivered to my door. Any help to ease my mind would be appreciated. Thanks In Advance.

Link :
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1414422&cc=1361944
 
Originally, ALL gear drive starters mounted up to any engine they were designed to fit. Example, some heavy truck, industrial, and the 426 hemis used different starters.

But all stants, all small blocks, all big blocks that were originally equipped with gear drives could take "the same starter." Just ONE

Now starters ARE different. The older wound field units had heavy and light duty, so a light one you took off your slant might not crank a 12:1 440. But it would FIT

Onwards to mini starters

All OEM mini starters built for stuff like RAM and Dakotas 318/ 3760 fit the same as the gear drives, with the exception that some need to be "clocked" to clear the block, some need to have the electrical terminal adapter removed (not needed) and "I hear" that some minor block grinding happens on a few BB engines.

In short, what you ordered should fit and operate
 
i have heard some weighted flexplates (cast 340 aftermarket flex plate)can interfere at times.
 
Nobody knows if the original bolts will work in the mini starter? Guess I will just wing it and see what happens.
 
Yes, they use the same bolts/nut.
Mine did anyway on a 318 and the starter was for a Ram 1500 with a 5.2 eng.
 
Mine was a seamless transformation. Bought a late 90's 5.2 / 5.9 rebuild at NAPA. Removed the electrical terminal adapter and chucked it. Installed the starter. Spent a few days getting used to the tinny sound.
 
Same bolts will work. I always get a starter for a 3/4 ton ram with a 5.9 and have never had any issues. I'm sure if you have a crazy race engine you'd want something more specific.
 
Thanks for the input guys! I knew that FABO would come through for me. That terminal adaptor you're talking about, is that the plastic jack near the main power terminal? Do I just remove it and discard it. what is under it?
 
Thanks for the input guys! I knew that FABO would come through for me. That terminal adaptor you're talking about, is that the plastic jack near the main power terminal? Do I just remove it and discard it. what is under it?

If it helps any and you are not against doing it, I just split the connector on the wires and connected them.
Worked fine and still have the insulation on both wires.
 
Hi Guy's

I am ready to install my starter but I have a question about the connector in the picture I've attached to this post. Everybody say that you need to remove the "plastic connector" to install the starter. Is this the connector that I am pointing to in the picture? If so how do you remove it? I don't want to break anything. By the way what is the connector for?

Thanks In Advance
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140703_090110_705 (Large).jpg
    40.3 KB · Views: 460
If it helps any and you are not against doing it, I just split the connector on the wires and connected them.
Worked fine and still have the insulation on both wires.

No I'm talking about "came on the starter." some of those mini starters have a separate piece that bolts to the actual starter terminals, and that separate piece is usually "in the way" as well as not necessary on the older cars.

But good point.......if you still have the factory molded wire ends. By the way, "way back when" those molded wire ends could fail internally to vibration.
 
That is for the start wire from the solenoid . You can get a pigtail for it at any dealer.
 
No I'm talking about "came on the starter." some of those mini starters have a separate piece that bolts to the actual starter terminals, and that separate piece is usually "in the way" as well as not necessary on the older cars.

But good point.......if you still have the factory molded wire ends. By the way, "way back when" those molded wire ends could fail internally to vibration.

Ah, I see what you mean.
Mine has two bolt/nut terminals on it instead of that plastic connector.

I would def get the pigtail for that instead of hacking it up.

Mine looks like this with two separate studs.
 

Attachments

  • starter.jpg
    39.8 KB · Views: 418
Amazes me that people pay $100 plus for these things. The last one I got cost me $15 at the junkyard.
Look under any late model Chrysler car. If it has a mini starter, it will fit.
 
I see 2 sizes and both have the same footprint. Only the case is longer on the higher Kw rating. Even a generic "small" one I bought kicked over a 451 I had effortlessly. There are everywhere at the yards, but a new one is a new one, warranty and all. Good upgrade. I think the 70 Hemi 4sp used the ancient direct drive starter for some clearance reason. Old slants had DD starter too, like generator days motors.
 
Amazes me that people pay $100 plus for these things. The last one I got cost me $15 at the junkyard.
Look under any late model Chrysler car. If it has a mini starter, it will fit.

Yea, I don't get that either.
I guess if I had more money than time maybe.
 
Yea, I don't get that either.
I guess if I had more money than time maybe.

That is correct. It is cheaper for me to pay the $100.00 and let it come in the mail than for me to take off work or miss a call shift.
 
Well I got the mini starter installed. It's been a long time since I had to remove a starter and I had visions of just loosening the bolts, disconnecting the wires and dropping that starter right outta there........not exactly what happened LOL. I got everything loosened and the wires disconnected but the dropping out thing...er.....it didn't happen. I of course tried to convince myself that I didn't have to disconnect the pitman arm and the tie rod end but well you know what happened. The connector in question on the starter, I went to the dealer and they were totally clueless. I ended up getting a little spade lug and sliding it on. I sealed it up with heat shrink until I can get the correct connector. Now the good part THESE STARTERS ROCK!!!!!!!!!!! I couldn't believe how fast it cranked and how quickly my engine started. I found myself starting it several times because I liked it so much. Anyway I want to thank everybody for the help. And for the record FABO ROCKS TOO!!!!!!
 
-
Back
Top