Misfire at cruise, popping/afterfire at 3000RPM

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Yes; springs can take a set. But those would have to be highly stressed.
The valves that were open for 20 years could have rusty seats and and so, they do not seal. Also the Guides could be grabbing the stems.
These things often happen to engines not bagged. The moisture content in the air all around you is constantly changing with temperature and barometric pressure. Your Crankcase is constantly breathing.
 
DO NOT TAP the valves with the piston parked at TDC!
Ok, at the top of the compression stroke you can, but be careful that you do not tap a valve deep enough to smash into a piston.....
To do a LD test, the piston has to be at the top of the bore, and on the compression stroke so that both valves are closed.
If you have a solid-lifter cam, there has to be at least some lash evident.
When you inject the air, it likes to blow the piston down, so; the piston has to be almost exactly at TDC. Furthermore, the LD test is usually done at a low enough pressure (30psi) that you can control that pressure surge.
I inject 80psi because it gives me a reasonably accurate result; but
I installed a valve on my tester that allows me to bring it in slowly, so the dang piston stays at the top. And my tester has only one gauge on it so that I only have one error to deal with.
So, then I deadhead my gauge, and adjust the regulator so it reads 80psi. Then without moving anything, I open my valve to exhaust the gauge, then slowly bring the pressure back up. If the piston moves, I back it up and start over. If the piston stays, then the gauge will read less than 80psi, because some of it always leaks somewhere.
So then, if the gauge reads say 76 psi, then the pressure loss is;
(80 less 76)/80= 5%LD

Had you tested with the typical 30psi;
then 5% would be (1 less 5%) x30=28.5psi. But most of us would not be able to read the .5 psi on the stinking little gauge supplied. Maybe not even a full psi. So we might round it to something like 28 or 29 psi and call it done. But 28psi is ;
(30 less 28)/30=6.7% LD, and
29 is; (30 less 29)/30= 3.3% LD
Both numbers of which are way out to lunch, compared to the correct number of 5%.

So the bottom line is to always test with as much pressure as you dare,
BUT
Always make sure there is NO BAR on the balancer to slam thru the rad, or smash your hand...
I am comfortable with 80psi, which, on a 4" piston, is 1005 pounds of downward force;
that's a lot of force.
If you ever can't unscrew your balancer-bolt, now you know the secret.......
30psi is 377pounds of force, a relatively tame-looking number, in comparison. Don't let it fool you; you cannot hang on to the bar very long after it starts moving; so I highly recommend that you don't even try..

To avoid all the rig-maroll,
you can unscrew the rocker shafts, and do the LD with the pistons anywhere; the pressure will push them to the bottom, and then the LD number will stabilize. With the pistons at the bottom, you can rap the valves to your hearts content.
Sorry , aj...but the pistons aren't so close that you would hit them with the valve by tapping them with a rubber mallet.

OP, cam may be ****.
Where is the air leakage the loudest, the exhaust pipes?
The plug was the definite misfire culprit, but the leakage of 35% and up is really bad.
All kinds of things could be the culprit of that especially if you hear it coming out of the exhaust ..like burnt valve or valves hung open...same result after some miles-burnt.
You may have a piston land cracked off and spit out the pipes...

Where is the air leaking from, valve cover or exhaust headers?
The previous owner could have very well slap some heads on a short block whether it was even new or used but those heads valves may have never really sealed completely and that could be the main problem with pops out both ends...and crummy leak down numbers.

Safe to say with leakdown like that, 45% on some....the tune is not the focus anymore.
 
DO NOT TAP the valves with the piston parked at TDC!
Ok, at the top of the compression stroke you can, but be careful that you do not tap a valve deep enough to smash into a piston.....
I'm not sure yet that OP knows where TDC compression is. Which is why I carefully worded it the way I did.
 
AJ, I'm going to copy and save your last write up, since I feel like it may be a while before getting to the timing stage. I think what I'm going to do is 1) repeat LD test with the rockers removed and 2) swap the ECU for a known good one, just to rule it out since it's quick and easy. Then I'll bust out the multimeter to check for continuity where I can.

@MOPAROFFICIAL The air from #4 sounded like it was leaking into the head, but I couldn't pinpoint exactly where. Didn't hear it coming from a valve. Definitely wasn't coming from the exhaust. It's funny you mention the cam possibly being ****, because a couple days ago I told a friend that it'd almost be easier to just pull the engine and rebuild it. At least then I'd know what I was dealing with, but then that would defeat the point of wanting to learn how to troubleshoot.
 
I'm not sure yet that OP knows where TDC compression is. Which is why I carefully worded it the way I did.
I verified that the timing mark on the balancer is correct using a piston stop, and brought each piston up to the top with both springs closed. Please correct me if that is not TDC on the compression stroke.
 
I verified that the timing mark on the balancer is correct using a piston stop, and brought each piston up to the top with both springs closed. Please correct me if that is not TDC on the compression stroke.
Should be correct if you were on the compression stroke.
 
@RustyRatRod It did, for the better part of 20 years from what I was told.

So, if I follow your logic, if an engine sits for a long period of time, some of springs would be compressed while others aren't, and some in between. And are you saying that springs compressed for long periods may experience problems? It makes sense to me, as in perhaps the compressed spring retains a memory and doesn't open up as much as the rest, leaving that valve susceptible to being left slightly open.

@AJ/FormS , give me a sec to read your post.

Yes. They can experience fatigue from being compressed for such a long time. Normally, it's not critical with hydraulic lifters because the plungers compress "some" but for 20 years, that would kill anything with the engine not being turned. I'd rule out everything else first, but the springs are certainly a possibility.
 
Getting back to troubleshooting the 440. I began where @67Dart273 suggested and made sure my grounds were good, but before I started it to check voltage, I popped a valve cover off so I could visualize the rockers.

From working on the 318 in the Scamp, I remember being able to EASILY recognize where each cylinder was in its stroke by looking at the angle of the rocker. However, this engine looks different. I can’t tell by looking at the rockers — they all look to be at the same angle! I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me, so I laid a straight edge over them. The engine is at #1 compression TDC. See for yourselves…..

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Cam went flat.

Did you prime the oiling system after the engine had bee sitting for 20 years? Or just go right to starting it?

After 20 years, you know that cam had to be dry, no oil on it.

Time to pull the oil filter, cut it open, and see how much of the cam is in that can.
 
“Cam went flat.” That’s exactly what I was thinking, wanted to see what you guys thought as well. I did not prime the engine prior to starting after it had sat for so long. Honestly, I didn’t even think about that. I did oil the cylinders, but didn’t prime the engine. Dammit.
 
@George Jets I'm definitely gonna pull the filter and cut it open, but I’m just going to plan on a rebuild at this point.

Yes good idea.

You can bet the Rods and Mains and Cam Bearings are all going to be looking pretty tough too. The good thing is the soft bearings take the first hit, before the hard parts start going away.
 
@George Jets I'm definitely gonna pull the filter and cut it open, but I’m just going to plan on a rebuild at this point.
Though not what you wanted to hear, it is good because now you can get it built the way you want and will know "how" it was built. Lots of good stuff is available for our engines that was not 20+ years ago!
 
Believe it or not, I'm actually relieved for those exact reasons. Plus, I'll be able to get the engine bay nice and clean, maybe even paint while it's empty. I've washed down the engine area at least 6 or 7 times since I got it, but the fine New Mexico sand just keeps on appearing. It'll be much easier to replace my old headers, I can paint the block, I'll know for sure that all the gaskets/seals are fresh and good, I'm pretty sure the transmission needs new clutch packs, the list goes on. Heck, I just picked up a 4 speed for this car, so why not just do the swap now??

What I am NOT relieved about is the time and money aspect. I was really hoping to be able to focus on other things that have been put on the back burner, but that's okay. I am also keeping in mind that the cam may not be the only issue that was going on here. I'm still anticipating possibly some ignition and/or fueling quirks. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
 
Quick update: I do have another thread started about this engine, because I thought I was going to pull/rebuild it. Turns out that the lifters had bled down, and that's why the rockers looked to be all the same angle. I removed the intake, and the cam is fine. So, I'm not going to rebuild the engine just yet.

I did, however, send the heads to the shop to get the springs and retainers correct. They're also going to look at the seats and guides.

While inspecting the harness prior to doing some electrical troubleshooting, I noticed it was in such bad shape that I'm surprised I haven't had even more issues than I already do. I found a new replacement, as well as a new spare ECU harness that I'll install.
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I smile!

Nobody ever wants to admit to this!!! They all say "It" is just fine!

I sat my ride for 25 years but had the fore thought to loosen the rockers shafts and slip the pushrods off to the side.

It keeps the valves closed and moister out of the engine. One point for 3R, Rusty!

My wiring was not that bad, I lie, but honestly much the same in the long run! One must "Be" honest to ones self and fix the issues one knows to exist!

My car has never been better since dropping near 1K on all new harnesses throughout!

The charging, lighting, ignition and you name it!
 
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Well, I certainly am grateful for all the advice given, and I hope it never seems that I ignore that advice. I was getting ready to do some electrical troubleshooting as suggested by @67Dart273 and then go from there, but I found the tattered wiring and rotators on the valves, so I decided to just dig in and get going.

I'm not shy when it comes to documenting problems with the car, because hopefully my experiences can help others in the same situation.
 
Okay, anyone who said valve train problem was correct. However, that may not be the only issue.

Machine shop says I have broken springs, however the cylinder head guy is out with covid, so Gary (the owner) couldn't elaborate on how many or which springs. He did say that my valves are all sealing and the springs seem to be the only issue. I will be measuring the cam today for lift so that he can install the correct springs.
 
Coming back to this thread.

Got the heads back from the shop, they did a valve job since all valves were leaking and replaced all springs with new, replaced the rotators with standard retainers. Car ran much better with the heads re-worked, and I also reduced the timing advance from 22 degrees to 14. But I'm still having the misfire/popping. Although it now surfaces around 3400, instead of 2800-3000 RPM.

Some things I've done: new distributor, new engine harness, swapped coils, swapped ECUs, checked timing. One interesting thing I found when checking timing was that I was only getting 10 degrees mechanical advance when I should've been getting 24, according to the literature that came with the distributor.

I plan to change up the spring configuration in the distributor, but there are so many other things going on with the car, that it's time to put her up in the garage for a it. (transmission, steering, suspension...)

The car has a 6 pack, so I went back to double check that the vacuum secondaries were opening. The rear outboard turned out to be sticky, and the front outboard moved nice and freely. I disconnected the rear and performed a test to confirm the front was indeed opening while driving under load -- it indeed is opening.

One other thing I am thinking of, which I will address while the car is laid up in the hospital (shop), is the fuel line from the tank to pump. The car has a 5/16" line, and from what I've read, six pack applications usually call for a 3/8" line. I have a 3/8" line ready to install, along with a 3/8" sender, so that'll get done while she's on the operating table.
 
Coming back to this thread.

Got the heads back from the shop, they did a valve job since all valves were leaking and replaced all springs with new, replaced the rotators with standard retainers. Car ran much better with the heads re-worked, and I also reduced the timing advance from 22 degrees to 14. But I'm still having the misfire/popping. Although it now surfaces around 3400, instead of 2800-3000 RPM.

Some things I've done: new distributor, new engine harness, swapped coils, swapped ECUs, checked timing. One interesting thing I found when checking timing was that I was only getting 10 degrees mechanical advance when I should've been getting 24, according to the literature that came with the distributor.

I plan to change up the spring configuration in the distributor, but there are so many other things going on with the car, that it's time to put her up in the garage for a it. (transmission, steering, suspension...)

The car has a 6 pack, so I went back to double check that the vacuum secondaries were opening. The rear outboard turned out to be sticky, and the front outboard moved nice and freely. I disconnected the rear and performed a test to confirm the front was indeed opening while driving under load -- it indeed is opening.

One other thing I am thinking of, which I will address while the car is laid up in the hospital (shop), is the fuel line from the tank to pump. The car has a 5/16" line, and from what I've read, six pack applications usually call for a 3/8" line. I have a 3/8" line ready to install, along with a 3/8" sender, so that'll get done while she's on the operating table.
Popping out the exhaust or intake?
 
Popping out of the exhaust. I've paid close attention to the sound when it happens, and it starts as a low, muffled random misfire, and develops into a random pop out of the exhaust. The car also seems to lose power or "hits a wall" while this is happening.
 
I would say both. It’ll rev to 3400 or so, start misfiring and hold that RPM, and feels like it’s losing power slightly.
Exhaust valve is open when that happens.
Does it mean...
A. the valve isn't closing
B.The spring pressures arent right, again, leading to A.
Again what camshaft and what spring part number and what pressures did they tell you they set them at?

If it was loading up on fuel it would eventually blow the Muffler case.. that wouldn't cut out like lean...it would blubber the tone would get real low
 
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