Modern Headlights
- Thread starter Pawned
- Start date
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slantsixdan
=..=
A couple of words at a time, don'tchyaknow, in between wrangling meatloaf gaskets.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Sometimes I have to wonder if people know that you/they can post links like that, or just think you underline normal words for some strange reason.
Great informative thread,Thanks to /6 Dan for the info,and TMM stickiness...
Dan, all this talk about lights reminds me .......would you happen to know a source for H4 headlamp conversion rubber boots?
dodgedifferent2
Well-Known Member
could go back to post 7 but who is to argue.
slantsixdan
=..=
Some types are available and some aren'tsend me a PM with particulars, if you like, and I'll see if I can get you pointed in a helpful direction.
PM sent sir. Thanks very much.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
My daddy always told me, "No one was ever sorry they bought the very best"
I built my own relay system as I want it built to my specs, not someone else's. I imagine that crackedback's system is probably very good. But if there is a problem with it, down the road, I do not want to sit there trying to figure out how he built it.
I finished my relay system and hooked everything up. I used #14 awg because I do not have enough #12 wire left. I purchased 2 SPDT 40 amp relays to use. It all works correctly. I am chasing down a couple other gremlins, unrelated.
I posted on FABO before that 'I do not believe in solderless connectors, all connectors must be soldered', but I am finding that I need to modify how I do the soldering. I will post more in a different thread once I perfect and then test my new way of soldering connectors
slantsixdan
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My kit instructions come with a color coded schematic identifying all wires.
I'm also a available via phone and email for any troubleshooting or after sale service that is necessary.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
Absolutely no offense was intended, if you took it that way, I apologize. I build everything myself.
I enjoy building it, I like the money I save and I only have myself to blame if it takes a dump. Plus I had no idea (at the time) anyone here made these for sale
I just put in an order for another 1,000 feet of 16 and 14 awg wire. Just to have if I need it later. I went thru a lot of wire when I rewired the car. There are only about 10 +/- original wires in the car, they are under the dash and most all go to the a/c unit
Solderless Connectors. I read the article and NOW agree with it. What I am now doing is I strip the wire a little long and push it thru the sleeve. I then crimp it and I solder the top excess wire to the connector. This still leaves the rest of the wire unsoldered and flexible. If it wicks thru to the bottom of the connector, I clip it off and try again
As I mentioned, I USE to think that way, I am finding a rash of broken connections at the base of the connector.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
Did somebody say headlights?
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
Someone came in here and deleted at least 2 posts.
Why?? There was no foul language in them. No one attacked another. There were no terroristic threats. Since when is this board censored? Please explain why the 2 or more posts were deleted from this thread.
Why?? There was no foul language in them. No one attacked another. There were no terroristic threats. Since when is this board censored? Please explain why the 2 or more posts were deleted from this thread.
I'm not a moderator but this thread is a sticky, which means it's important enough to permanently post. My thought is that the deleted posts didn't contribute anything. If I was a moderator, I'd delete the last five posts, including mine, to keep the thread on track.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
I need a fresh set of eyes on this.
On this schematic it shows that the L4 headlamp socket connector is for the Low Beam. The L3 connector is for the High Beam
The L9 conductor is for the ground.
In other words, while looking at the BACK of the headlamp the left connector is the ground and the middle connector is the low beam.
"MY" common sense would tell me that the L4 connector should be the ground.
I guess I have been staring at this too long
I am drawing my as-built schematic for my Duster, so after I die someone will be able to fix it
On this schematic it shows that the L4 headlamp socket connector is for the Low Beam. The L3 connector is for the High Beam
The L9 conductor is for the ground.
In other words, while looking at the BACK of the headlamp the left connector is the ground and the middle connector is the low beam.
"MY" common sense would tell me that the L4 connector should be the ground.
I guess I have been staring at this too long
I am drawing my as-built schematic for my Duster, so after I die someone will be able to fix it
slantsixdan
=..=
As you look at the back of the rightside-up headlamp with the lens facing away from you, the terminals are:
Left vertical: Common (ground)
Top horizontal: Low beam feed
Right vertical: High beam feed
Which means the socket slots are as follows:
Left vertical: High beam feed
Top horizontal: Low beam feed
Right vertical: Common (ground)
Left vertical: Common (ground)
Top horizontal: Low beam feed
Right vertical: High beam feed
Which means the socket slots are as follows:
Left vertical: High beam feed
Top horizontal: Low beam feed
Right vertical: Common (ground)
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
Yes, that is how I just rewired it. Makes no sense to me.
I ran it the other night with it wired my way, with the ground on the horizontal, and it seemed to work just fine.
Well I now have it just as the schematic shows, :wack:
Thanks again
I ran it the other night with it wired my way, with the ground on the horizontal, and it seemed to work just fine.
Well I now have it just as the schematic shows, :wack:
Thanks again
slantsixdan
=..=
Ground on top horizontal, low beam feed on left vertical, high beam feed on right vertical: low beams will work normally, high beams will be in series with low beams. Result: dim, brown, poorly-focused light.
Ground on top horizontal, high beam feed on left vertical, low beam feed on right vertical: You'll have low beams with the kickswitch in the high beam position. With the kickswitch in the low beam position, lows + highs will be in series. Result: dim, brown, poorly-focused light.
Ground on left vertical, low beam feed on top horizontal, high beam feed on right vertical: everything works correctly.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
I was finally able to get the Duster on the streets Monday night to test the new headlights that Dan recommended. They work great. I can now see to drive at night
gdizzle
Well-Known Member
BTW, FYI, I was able to get my headlights properly Aimed at the local Midas shop. Chraged me $24.99 and did it while I waited about 30 minutes.
Hard to find anyone local with the proper equipment.
Hard to find anyone local with the proper equipment.
Lamp inspection /alignment people,are getting harder to find( used to do it,easy moolah), not enough bucks in it anymore I guess.
blue440duster
Well-Known Member
Calling SlantSixDan.....
These two 2009 quotes are from the slant six forum(which I am not a member) the 2nd quote is from our very own Slant six Dan......
I stumbled upon these quotes from a search I do every 6 months or so to see how LED headlight technology is advancing, for several years I've been putting off this purchase for my project because I figure eventually a LED headlight will pop up that looks like an OEM muscle car era headlight(no clear lens) work Better than said OEM bulb(better light pattern), wont have to splice a single wire(same plug) and no bucket mods either or empty your wallet to purchase a pair of them AND Get this......actually be DOT Legal.
I know this may be a lot to ask but I'm patient..... well OK my car STILL isn't done so that's why :roll:
So what do you think now that it's 2015?
And IF someone were to use these LED headlights along with a few other LED bulbs in other areas such as taillights Is there an appropriate replacement flasher you would recommend?
These two 2009 quotes are from the slant six forum(which I am not a member) the 2nd quote is from our very own Slant six Dan......
I stumbled upon these quotes from a search I do every 6 months or so to see how LED headlight technology is advancing, for several years I've been putting off this purchase for my project because I figure eventually a LED headlight will pop up that looks like an OEM muscle car era headlight(no clear lens) work Better than said OEM bulb(better light pattern), wont have to splice a single wire(same plug) and no bucket mods either or empty your wallet to purchase a pair of them AND Get this......actually be DOT Legal.
I know this may be a lot to ask but I'm patient..... well OK my car STILL isn't done so that's why :roll:
So what do you think now that it's 2015?
And IF someone were to use these LED headlights along with a few other LED bulbs in other areas such as taillights Is there an appropriate replacement flasher you would recommend?
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