????? Modified 727 ????

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71produster

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I got the torqueflite handbook read it twice and now I'm in the middle of doing some oil modifications !
I have Drilled the in and out of the of the oil feeds to 11/32" ,I had the front pump support modified to help out oil flow,I all so got the output shaft support modified with a roller bearing and seal.
I working on putting a roller bearing in the low & reverse drum now.
I all so put the 4 bolt spag in as well.
I used good used parts to do these mods.
I"ll take some pictures to show the mods that I have done.
Do you think these modifications will help out the life of my trans ??
Thanks for the help!!
 
71produster said:
Do you think these modifications will help out the life of my trans ??
Click to expand...

What kind of driving are you doing? Not really sure about the nature of your question since you've already done the mods.

TF's were pretty bullet proof from the factory. I think you'd really have to really hammer it even in stock form to blow it up.

The bolt in sprag is a must for high RPM applications but doesn't really increase the life of the trans. It just prevents death or injury to the driver.8) If your trans does blow up without a bolt-in sprag, there likely would be fragments of metal spinning at several thousand RPM like little buzzsaw missiles slicing through the floorpan and into your limbs.

Rollerized components will cause less friction, but the material they're made of may come into play. Aluminum may not last as long as steel in certain areas. Aluminum or lightweight parts are generally for racing applications and are expected to be replaced more frequently.
 
74Burntorange said:
were did you get the parts?
Click to expand...

Out of a big block trans that I got from the junkyard!
The trans was in a motorhome so I got that one for some parts.
It gave me the four pinion front plantary set,I'm going to modify it with the steel splines from a 904.
I don't have big bucks to buy all the parts they show in the book,so I'm pretty good at running the mill & lathe so I'm making my parts.I'll post pictures of the parts as I get them done!
I'm all so making extra ones! Just in case.
 
rmchrgr said:
What kind of driving are you doing? Not really sure about the nature of your question since you've already done the mods.

TF's were pretty bullet proof from the factory. I think you'd really have to really hammer it even in stock form to blow it up.

The bolt in sprag is a must for high RPM applications but doesn't really increase the life of the trans. It just prevents death or injury to the driver.8) If your trans does blow up without a bolt-in sprag, there likely would be fragments of metal spinning at several thousand RPM like little buzzsaw missiles slicing through the floorpan and into your limbs.

Rollerized components will cause less friction, but the material they're made of may come into play. Aluminum may not last as long as steel in certain areas. Aluminum or lightweight parts are generally for racing applications and are expected to be replaced more frequently.
Click to expand...

I'm going to use all steel parts!
I want to build a good strip / street trans.
My first time in a 727. I called some trans shops and they want some big money to build me a trans that will live behind my small block so I thought I would try to do it myself!
I think if follow the book I should end up with a good trans!
I just want to know if someone as build a trans like this and how well it worked out!
Did it last for some time? Will it be high maintenance thing I'll have to do all year long?
I hope to get a few years out of it like the motor!

thanks for the help
stan
 
71produster said:
I got the torqueflite handbook read it twice and now I'm in the middle of doing some oil modifications !
I have Drilled the in and out of the of the oil feeds to 11/32" ,I had the front pump support modified to help out oil flow,I all so got the output shaft support modified with a roller bearing and seal.
I working on putting a roller bearing in the low & reverse drum now.
I all so put the 4 bolt spag in as well.
I used good used parts to do these mods.
I"ll take some pictures to show the mods that I have done.
Do you think these modifications will help out the life of my trans ??
Thanks for the help!!
Click to expand...

Sounds good so far.

Here are a few other issues you can look into
15 springs in the front cutch
Bolt in sprag I did an ultimate 8 bolt sprag but any bolt in is better than skt
HD Band Strut stronger wont flex, bend etc.
Sealing rings teflon style improved flow
Front Billet servo piston kit
Rear Billet Servo piston kit very weak link in the stk unit
Modified Pump Supports will allow more fluid flow to front drum you did this!
2nd gear band lever 4.2 or 5.0 lever is quicker
727- HP Street Kit koleen clutchs and better steels
front rigid band red kevlar
rear band red kevlar
what about 5 clutch front drum need a later drum and slim design piston and pressure plate.

Is this a full or manual Valve body unit? I think that covers the main points but there are a few other mods too.
 
71produster said:
I want to build a good strip / street trans.

I called some trans shops and they want some big money to build me a trans that will live behind my small block...

I hope to get a few years out of it like the motor!
Click to expand...

I think that unless you're drag racing it on a regular basis and it only sees high-rpm shifts, then it will be fine in relatively stock form. Just assemble it properly making sure to check your clearances and for smooth operation. A good trans cooler and a trans fluid temp gauge will help to keep things in line.

Racing modifications will require more diligent maintenance on your part because you're altering the way the factory designed the part. You'll probably need to keep an eye on the fluid and fluid temps more often when driving on the street. Stresses placed on the trans are different than in a racing application. Higher stall converter will run hotter too.
 
Stan that sounds like what I do to them for guys that want a high perf trans. Should make for a super strong trans. lower maint. if anything. The other guys had some good suggestions and the only thing I wouldn't do is use a 5.0 kickdown lever. 4.2 works the best with the narrower band in a standard TF. The 5.0 lever was only used on the Hemi trans and it had a wider (and consequently stiffer) band and needed more force to apply it. If you use a 5.0 lever on a standard width band you could have overlap problems shifting into 3rd. Allot of guys say they use it and I use to use them but I found out they can have a minor amount of overlap that can't really be felt in the seat of the pants but it can be seen on a dyno. You probably know any overlap will destroy your trans and slow your car down. If it's a manual VB the VB instructions usually say what lever to use. I've heard most are recommending the 3.8 lever now.

BTW: How much hp and torque is your engine your running in front of this?
 
Yep I would only use the 5.0 with the wide band and 15 springs on the wider faced drum. It is a timing thing and you have to match the bands, levers, drums and time the 2nd on and 2nd of in relationship to the 3rd gear shifts or you will get to much overlap as stated.

I thought since you were doing the mods you listed these would be good if you were going to build it like a stronger version of the Hemi 727 trans.

Note to that the valve body play a HUGE part in the timing of the shifs too. So depending on the VB you pick, gearing, convertor, car weight power etc. all things need to be timed accordingly.

On a budget stay with the 4.2 and at least 12 springs in the drum.

PS I have had much better life with the large solid bans and they too will work good with the 4.2 lever. Also I would block of the acumaltor piston with a rod cut to length to imorve the 1-2 shift, but this may be harder than you want out of it?


Good post guys!
 
I'm also going to do a TF . What book are you refering to? Sounds like something I'll need.
 
fishy68 said:
Stan that sounds like what I do to them for guys that want a high perf trans. Should make for a super strong trans. lower maint. if anything. The other guys had some good suggestions and the only thing I wouldn't do is use a 5.0 kickdown lever. 4.2 works the best with the narrower band in a standard TF. The 5.0 lever was only used on the Hemi trans and it had a wider (and consequently stiffer) band and needed more force to apply it. If you use a 5.0 lever on a standard width band you could have overlap problems shifting into 3rd. Allot of guys say they use it and I use to use them but I found out they can have a minor amount of overlap that can't really be felt in the seat of the pants but it can be seen on a dyno. You probably know any overlap will destroy your trans and slow your car down. If it's a manual VB the VB instructions usually say what lever to use. I've heard most are recommending the 3.8 lever now.

BTW: How much hp and torque is your engine your running in front of this?
Click to expand...

I took the car to the track thought I just broke the drive shaft but after I started looking the car over I found the trans took a **** as well!
I posted a video of the run in the racer form.http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=42787
It had a 5.0 lever in it, turbo/action vb.


BTW: How much hp and torque is your engine your running in front of this?[/QUOTE]

Hp is 612,ftlbs of tq. 526
I paid some one good money to build that trans but it blow to ****!!

"If you use a 5.0 lever on a standard width band you could have overlap problems shifting into 3rd".

I think that is what happened to me!
Just as I hit third gear pow!! I was done for the day!Still down.
Now I will build a bullet proof trans!
I hope!!!
AS I get more in to this I hope to get more advice from you guys on this??
Thank you all for the input so far!!
Any pictures of the mods you guys have done??
 
Many times after a ujoint, rive shaft failure etc. The trans needs to be torn down and inspect the sprag assembly, it can blow up on the next run after a rprevious failure or a high speed water burn out.

Also the front drums are know to explode in very high HP/TQ applications too. If you race it put a blanket on it. Will and can save your life and feet if a minor explosion.
 
Im sure you have one, but, are you running a drive shaft loop? I have seen guys twist a drivshaft or bust a yoke out & 9 times out of 10 they shell the tranny as well. Not a good thing. A loop will save you sometimes but not always. Either wasy it would be a good investment. You duster sounds very healthy BTW!
 
I need some more info on how to rollerize the 727 guys!
The book doesn't go in to great detail on the bearings to use like part numbers.
Sooooooooooo can one of you professional trans guru send me some bearing numbers to help out here???
[email protected]
I have called sooooo many trans shops they wont give any info out!!
Is this TOP SECRET INFORMATION on what bearing to buy ??
All I have gotten out of the trans shops is we will sell you all the parts to put in the trans from $900.00 to 2500.00 bucks!!
No money like that right now.
If any of you do send info I won't post any of it!!
Thank you for the help so far
stan
 
71produster said:
I need some more info on how to rollerize the 727 guys!
The book doesn't go in to great detail on the bearings to use like part numbers.
Sooooooooooo can one of you professional trans guru send me some bearing numbers to help out here???
[email protected]
I have called sooooo many trans shops they wont give any info out!!
Is this TOP SECRET INFORMATION on what bearing to buy ??
All I have gotten out of the trans shops is we will sell you all the parts to put in the trans from $900.00 to 2500.00 bucks!!
No money like that right now.
If any of you do send info I won't post any of it!!
Thank you for the help so far
stan
Click to expand...

Here's a link to a tech page on Moparts that addresses rollerizing a tf.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto/10.html

Here's the main page on all mods listed for a TF. May have some other stuff you might want to do.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto.html

Now that a buddy of mine has a lathe I think I'll pull mine down and rollerize it too. Let me know how your project goes. Tracy
 
fishy68 said:
Here's a link to a tech page on Moparts that addresses rollerizing a tf.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto/10.html

Here's the main page on all mods listed for a TF. May have some other stuff you might want to do.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto.html

Now that a buddy of mine has a lathe I think I'll pull mine down and rollerize it too. Let me know how your project goes. Tracy
Click to expand...

No bearing part numbers listed in any of it!
I think I know what I'm going to do.
I'll get them !Just going to take longer.
thanks for the info!!!
stan



off to the bearing store!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Stan if you look at the first one I posted it's the same as the last one you refered too. I'll read through it again but I thought it had part #'s. Or at least some they thought would work.
 
Oh yeah that mod where you move the vent from the pump to the top of the tailshaft is fine if you have the governor disabled but if you don't the governor will throw fluid on the vent causing a leak. Ask me how I know.:angry7:
 
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