Modified Motor Mount

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mopowers

mopowers

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I was thinking about running a bolt through the stock driver's side rubber motor mount in my 68 Dart. Has anyone done this? Are there any drawbacks? Seems like a simple way to ensure the mount doesn't break with no ugly chain/turnbuckle contraption to look at.
 
I have never done that but I have taken the rubber off the old mount and welded my own solid mounts.
 

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You would have to drill through the metal K-member, the rubber mount and engine side brackets, so it will allow those parts to sit flat on the rubber mount. You'd also have to use a thick enough grade 8 bolt to be strong enough and similar strength hardware ie washers and two nuts to jam together to stop them from coming unscrewed, so it wouldn't vibrate loose. It would have to have enough play to let the rubber motor mount move, and would be difficult to drill and install unless the motor was out. What if it rattles and makes noise?

I've seen guys use chains on the back side of the motor mount, and they were hard to see.

Schumacher or Mighty Mounts are much easier to install although cost more. Solid mounts are ok for a race car, but something's eventually going to break on the street. Plus, the vibration is transmitted right into the cars K-member etc.
 
jbc426 said:
You would have to drill through the metal K-member, the rubber mount and engine side brackets, so it will allow those parts to sit flat on the rubber mount. You'd also have to use a thick enough grade 8 bolt to be strong enough and similar strength hardware ie washers and two nuts to jam together to stop them from coming unscrewed, so it wouldn't vibrate loose. It would have to have enough play to let the rubber motor mount move, and would be difficult to drill and install unless the motor was out. What if it rattles and makes noise?

I've seen guys use chains on the back side of the motor mount, and they were hard to see.

Schumacher or Mighty Mounts are much easier to install although cost more. Solid mounts are ok for a race car, but something's eventually going to break on the street. Plus, the vibration is transmitted right into the cars K-member etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. I was thinking of cutting off the stud on the K-member side of the mount and drilling through the mount where the stud was. Then just putting a bolt through the hole thing from the engine side and tacking the head of the bolt to the back side of the engine bracket and using a nylock nut to hold it to the K-member. It would go through the original hole the K-member. Do you think that would work?
 
gtsdude said:
I have never done that but I have taken the rubber off the old mount and welded my own solid mounts.
Click to expand...

X2. Paint them flat black and they look just like a stock mount. Been doing this for years
to keep the clutch linkage from going to far out of alignment. Works great.
It does transmit a little more vibration thru the chassis. But having a predictable
clutch pedal was always worth the trade off for me.
Used with a stock rubber mount on the right and poly trans mount keeps things from moving around too much no matter how mean you wish treat it.
 
If you're worried about the mount breaking and the engine beating the living crap out of the fenderwells, buy motor mounts for a 1989-1993 Dodge W250 or 350 with a Cummins Turbo Diesel.

It's the same biscuit mounts that pre-1972 A-Bodies use, but they have locking tabs to keep the mount from coming apart in the event that it breaks. Same concept as the ones that Schumacher sells, only without the $160 price tag, and they're available off the shelf at any parts store.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa..._/N-izp4cZ93xoa?itemIdentifier=66765_0_23742_


I usually just install Solid Mounts and Chains on my engines, even with Spool Mounts (I've broken a few spool mounts before)
 
A short piece of chain bolted to one of the block mount bolts and the K member mount pad works well.
 
ssba said:
X2. Paint them flat black and they look just like a stock mount. Been doing this for years to keep the clutch linkage from going to far out of alignment. Works great. It does transmit a little more vibration thru the chassis. But having a predictable clutch pedal was always worth the trade off for me. Used with a stock rubber mount on the right and poly trans mount keeps things from moving around too much no matter how mean you wish treat it.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea only using it on the driver side, clean and out of sight and you still isolate the vibrations which i'd imagine would be more on the pass. side since the engine is always pushing "down" on that side.
 
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