Modified Z-bar for Doug's Headers (pic)

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domdart

domdart

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I've seen alot of questions regarding z-bars and headers, so I posted a pic of my z-bar.
A vise, a hammer, and ten minutes is all it took. I put a 72 340 & A833 into a 68 Dart.
 

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Mine required cutting and welding. No way would it clear like that
 
I agree, mine had to be cut and re-welded. One of the arms gets flipped over, not going to do that with a hammer and vise.

IMG_1390_zps5482280e.jpg


Instructions are in the PDF I attached, it shows the difference between the stock and the modified z-bar. It's a really tight window to get it to clear. I labeled it for Doug's because that's what I have, but it's basically the same for the TTI headers. I actually think I downloaded this off the TTI site awhile back.
 

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72bluNblu said:
I agree, mine had to be cut and re-welded. One of the arms gets flipped over, not going to do that with a hammer and vise.

IMG_1390_zps5482280e.jpg


Instructions are in the PDF I attached, it shows the difference between the stock and the modified z-bar. It's a really tight window to get it to clear. I labeled it for Doug's because that's what I have, but it's basically the same for the TTI headers. I actually think I downloaded this off the TTI site awhile back.
Click to expand...

That's kinda how mine looks like after I got done with it. The only difference is that I didn't flip the stud around.

Here's the trick I used when I did mine.

I cut the lower leg off and then installed the Z-bar long with the top pushrod. I pulled the Z-bar back (i.e. rotating it back towards the rear of the car) using a bungee cord. This causes the clutch pedal, pushrod, and top leg of the z-bar to be tight to eliminate any slop.

I got back under the car and started positioning the lower leg. Basically, I just had to slide it as far towards the center of the car as possible. It was basically almost at the end of the Z-bar tube.

Not only did I slide it over, but I also angled it on the tube as far forward (i.e. toward the front of the car) as possible. I think mine came pretty close to touching my mini-starter. This will make it so that the lower clutch adjusting rod isn't too short (i.e. so that the nut isn't all the way towards the front of the car).

Its pretty tight in that area between the header tubes and bell housing, but try to mark the position of where you have the lower leg of the Z bar. Once you have it clearly marked where you want it welded, then take out the z-Bar.

Once it's out, just keep the lower leg perpendicular to the z-bar tube and align it with the marks and burn that sucker in good and hot.

Install it, and you should be good to go. It worked for me!
 
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