Mopar Performance Distributor adjustable advance?

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You guys make me want to cry. Why? Because people assume that everyone understands what they are talking about. I am not an electrical engineer, or distributor guru, or carburetor airbleed tip in guru either. I have FBO parts in 2 cars, one is running fine with them. The other one isn't together yet, but has the FBO distributor and module. All came recommended from a respected engine builder that occasionally makes comments on this site. Sometimes I feel like I am back in the Army, and my poncho fell apart on a forced march and now I am on the side doing push-ups for embarrassment, so that it doesn't happen again! I have no idea what those red gauges do yet, I have a set, they came with the new distributor. Just haven't gotten that far. Maybe Red Green can help me with some duct tape! I will keep watching, we're all in this together.
Just ask whatever you ain't gettin and we'll do our bestest to help you understand. The red keys for example. Each one is a different thickness. You loosen the advance screw on the breaker plate on those distributors and use the keys to stick in the slot to give you "whatever" advance you're looking for. The length of that slot controls how much advance you get. Bigger slot = more advance.
 
I realize that. My question was whether the same slot length in the MP Mallory units and factory units (after welding and filing) results in the same amount of advance.
Oh ok. Now THAT I don't know, but I would just bet not, since they are completely different designs.
 
You guys make me want to cry. Why? Because people assume that everyone understands what they are talking about. I am not an electrical engineer, or distributor guru, or carburetor airbleed tip in guru either. I have FBO parts in 2 cars, one is running fine with them. The other one isn't together yet, but has the FBO distributor and module. All came recommended from a respected engine builder that occasionally makes comments on this site. Sometimes I feel like I am back in the Army, and my poncho fell apart on a forced march and now I am on the side doing push-ups for embarrassment, so that it doesn't happen again! I have no idea what those red gauges do yet, I have a set, they came with the new distributor. Just haven't gotten that far. Maybe Red Green can help me with some duct tape! I will keep watching, we're all in this together.

Any time you need help with this stuff, the call is free, LOL
 
Do you guys know if that chart above works for both the adjustable MP distributors AND the old factory units? I've always wondered that.

The weld it up slot lengths for the winged plates on old style/OEM are different
 
Okay! I have your number, somewhere. When I get to the Hemi dist, I will ask.
Thank you guys!
 
Thank you for all your replies! I was already looking for a new distributor not knowing that the one I had was actually a really good one.

No, it's not trial and error. Get a grammar school protractor. Stick the rotor on. Put the protractor above the rotor so the tip or the rotor is pointing to zero. Now, twist the rotor advanced and see how many degrees you have. Multiply that times 2 and you have crankshaft degrees. So if you have 5 degrees at the distributor, that's 10 crank degrees. Get it? Screw that trial and error chit. And screw that FBO guy. lol

Thank you, I always appreciate learning how it's done correctly!


I did find the tuning keys on ebay and they even come with springs. I also ordered a new reluctor because the one in the distributor is pretty chewed up.
 
Thank you for all your replies! I was already looking for a new distributor not knowing that the one I had was actually a really good one.



Thank you, I always appreciate learning how it's done correctly!



I did find the tuning keys on ebay and they even come with springs. I also ordered a new reluctor because the one in the distributor is pretty chewed up.
You're certainly welcome and remember, if you get hung up on something, don't be bashful. Just ask. We can walk you right through it.
 
You will likely not be able to buy springs to control that advance mechanism. You can’t get a spring that is stiff enough.

I had new weights made just for these distributors so that I can do some testing and see if i can change the weight and shape of the weights to get a better curve.

Depending on your engine you may be able to get a reasonable curve with what you have.
 
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