Mopar Performance Roller Rockers

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ValiantRacing said:
I have both, alum 1.5 and stainless 1.6, the stainless worked good, the alum one with needle bearings ate up the shalfts after one season.
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So your 1.6 stainless rockers were off too??? I’ll double check mine when it goes back together because I can’t find the sheet where I wrote that info down. I thought it was on the cam card sheet with the degree info and P/V numbers, but it ain’t there.
 
Bushings are really the best on a stock diameter shaft. I have had no problem with Crane/MP and even ProForm aluminum rockers riding directly on hardened/polished/chromed shafts, ductile irons (Isky/Crane, etc.) either. Needle bearings: Harland Sharps and even the cheap ones (PRW/ProComp/C.A.T.) do require metered oiling. The stock chrysler system is adequate, but if converted to full time, a restrictor is needed at the deck surface or in the rocker stand. I used cup plugs drilled to .055" in the last one I converted to full time overhead oiling with the needle bearings. So far-so good.
 
I run Hughes bare aluminum no bushing 40K miles SFT cam .500 lift dual spring no issues. Quality metal and heat treatment plays a roll here. If mine ever wear out I'll spend the money to have bushings installed.
 
mderoy340 said:
I run Hughes bare aluminum no bushing 40K miles SFT cam .500 lift dual spring no issues. Quality metal and heat treatment plays a roll here. If mine ever wear out I'll spend the money to have bushings installed.
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I omitted Hughes, they are good too. Even DOVE work well within reason (like NOT B1 levels-LOL). Usually with quality shafts, correct length pushrods and proper oiling, the ADJUSTERS will be the weak link.
 
Plain shafts with flash chrome are deadly to needle bearings
needle bearings require a heat treatable steel and a good heat treat- not chrome
chrome works with aluminum or bronze but it should be industrial hard chrome triple plate, bronze to bind to the steel, nickel for hard then ground, then thin chrome cover
ever see dipped chrome directly on steel peal off a cheap bumper or tool- you can cut the hell out of your hand
 
The Proform rocker information is listed on their website and states," Not to be used with lift over .600" and spring pressures greater than 450 lbs. open. I have also read on a few other websites that the machine work is terrible on them. On a side note another friend of mine tells me the ones 440 Source sells are very poor quality as well. Sadly there are no cheap quality options, but then cheap and quality are never used together in the same sentence. For a 440 you have three distinct price points. Cheap/ poor quality/ Chinese with limited performance capabilities $300-$400, Hughes which will take care of most needs for $770, and finally Harland Sharp, Jessel, T&D for $1148 to $1250. Of all the rockers available it's hard to beat a set of Hughes for the quality and price point.

Tom
 
add in the B3 kit
for me it's hard to beat iron rocker
ok
bronzed bushed iron rockers by rocker arm specialists with their hard chrome shafts
 
Nothing wrong with stock Mopar rockers on mild performance builds...
Millions were manufactured without any issues. Roller rockers are just shiney objects...
 
Until the pushrod punches through the rocker arm. That gets real ugly if the lifter comes out of its bore. No oil pressure. I’ve been unlucky to have this happen to me on stock SB’s...
 
MiradaMegaCab said:
Until the pushrod punches through the rocker arm. That gets real ugly if the lifter comes out of its bore. No oil pressure. I’ve been unlucky to have this happen to me on stock SB’s...
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No roller rockers back in the day...How many races did Petty win with stock rocker arms? I know they did reinforce them but still.... all those 60's super stocks with 413's... Roadrunners, GTX's, Challengers...

I worked at Mopar dealers '68-'72. Saw a few break... not enough to matter.

Personally I'd rather run stock rockers with a juice cam on the street. Racing is different... I have T&D's and stock adjustables... Jesel are great, too. Guy's build strokers, spend big $$$ on paint and chrome but buy the cheapest Chi-Com rockers they can find. Just does not make sense. The ratios are all over the place... even with Sharp's.
 
yes..now they have T&D roller rockers....and solid lifter cams too
 
mopowers said:
Question is - why in the hell would Mopar want to license a shitty off-shore rocker? I guess it's all about the Benjamins?
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They do this with offshore distributors. My guess is on many things. One has to look carefully.
 
What I use for “affordable” adjustable rockers for Mopars are the HS made Mancini rockers.
About $500 with shafts and hold downs.

The next step up for me are the Comp Ultra-Pro Magnums.......about $700 for a BB........ a bit less for the SB.
 
70aarcuda said:
yes..now they have T&D roller rockers....and solid lifter cams too
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why? I can understand adjusting the rules on parts that are now almost extinct, but I think NHRA has gone too far in STOCK. hydraulic cams are available. probably to make tech inspection much simpler, and less expensive
 
IMHO, the Proform are useable on a relatively mild street engine. I wouldn't chance them on my 600+ HP bracket engine.
 
Mopar Performance rockers do not have bushings. Bare aluminum rides on the shafts. My set has been in use since 1998. Valve spring pressure is over 700 pounds. Sees 7000 regularly and 8000 with nitros. Kim.
 
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