More Advise or Opinions Wanted 340 build

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TheDartSide

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I previously posted about putting 340 heads on my 318, that is no longer the way I'm going.

I have a 340 .30 over TRW pistons that I am going to use (hopefully) just need bottom end redone (as had a spun bearing). This was my dads motor has been sitting in garage for 20 plus years

Basics
340 TRW Pistons, 340 2.02 valved J Heads

Looking for advise/opinions on Cam, Manifold, Carb combo, going to be daily driver on street for the most part. Going in 69 Dart, stock 904 Trans, 8 3/4 rear 3.23 Sure grip

Also what converter and 3.73's? Looking for best bang for the buck and basic low maintenance setup.

1 more question also available are a set of hookers headers. they were on his 70 Duster will they fit my Dart?

Thanks
 
This query will draw about a million opinions...parse through them to determine what you can live with...cost, power level, streetability, desired usage, etc...very very few of us are really "settled" with our vehicles...so, before you buy any parts or pay for any work to be done, nail down what you frankly want to do with the car. I know that's not the answer you want, but there are probably about 5 threads like this every month or so, and most people on here are willing to help or give advise...and opinions.

Whatever you do, don't skimp on parts or work...you will get what you pay for.
 
...but since you're asking for opinions: ;)

balance/blueprint your stock bottom end
equalize (cc) your J heads with basic bowl/port work
Edelbrock RPM or Air Gap...Weiand Stealth...LD340...any of those would work well with your build IMO
I'm guessing you want to roll with a hyd flat tappet cam with the statement about bang for buck and low mx setup...Lunati 268/276 or Comp XE 268 or even a stock 340 Hi po cam...
Converter-go custom with about 2800-3000 stall (3.73s should work well in your app IMO)
your old headers-if they fit a Duster, should fit a Dart as well.
Go through your 904 with new parts, a higher ratio kickdown lever, and a TF-1 or 2 kit...

...need to find that MM 340 build...it's kicking around in one of the more recent threads...
 
TheDartSide said:
Looking for advise/opinions on Cam, Manifold, Carb combo, going to be daily driver on street for the most part. Going in 69 Dart, stock 904 Trans, 8 3/4 rear 3.23 Sure grip
Click to expand...
You're going to get a bunch of different opinions on this one. Here goes mine.

Cam recommendation:
Summit Racing Part Number: SUM-6901 This is a US made Crane Fireball. I have one in the Demon and others on FABO are using it, too.

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218 int./228 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 276
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 288
Advertised Duration: 276 int./288 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.441 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.441 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.441 int./0.441 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114
Computer-Controlled Compatible: No
Valve Springs Required: Yes
Camshaft Manufacturers Description: Fair-smooth idle, low-midrange power. Works with stock-2,000 stall, 9:1 and higher compression, and gearing.

Manifold: Eddy Air Gap. If you live in a cold climate, you may want a more conventional manifold for cold drivability.


Carb: Eddy or Carter 625 cfm. This may be a little small for a 340, but you'll get great throttle response. These carbs are as close to bolt on and run out of the box as they come. Also, the smaller carb will produce better fuel economy, IMO.

TheDartSide said:
Also what converter and 3.73's? Looking for best bang for the buck and basic low maintenance setup.
Click to expand...
Recommend putting a Transgo RV shift kit in the 904. It firms up the shifts. Given the cam I've recommended, no more than a 2000 rpm stall. For fuel mileage, I suggest sticking with the 3.23 or no more than a 3.55:1.

TheDartSide said:
1 more question also available are a set of hookers headers. they were on his 70 Duster will they fit my Dart?
Click to expand...
Should as long as Dart does not have PS. Some headers won't fit PS cars. If the headers fit on the Duster with PS, no sweat on the Dart.
 
Okay I found the MM article and sounds about right.

I believe I'll be going with Comp Cams XE268, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Manifold,**I do have access to a LD340 Mainifold for Free, would the RPM Air Gap be better???

Kinda stuck on Carb see a lot of different opinions of what to run would like some guidance.

For now going to leave the 3.23's, and Trans alone.
 
If it's free, I would go with the LD340 (not that it's a bad manifold even if it wasn't free). Before I saw that, I was actually going to post that if you still have the stock factory 340 manifold, I'd use that before spending more on an AirGap. Will the AirGap perform better? Probably, sure. But for driving around on the street, I'd use the LD340 or even stock before I'd pay for a new one. LD340 is a good one.
 
The Lunati 268 is considered to be the best of the so called 268 grinds. That would be on my short list for a daily driver like you describe.
 
If you have the LD340 and have to buy an air gap, run the LD all day, every day! Great intake manifold. Block off the heat risers if you don't drive in cold weather.

This post hit pretty much what I would do for a good street car that isn't too radical.

txstang84 said:
balance/blueprint your stock bottom end
equalize (cc) your J heads with basic bowl/port work
Edelbrock RPM or Air Gap...Weiand Stealth...LD340...any of those would work well with your build IMO
I'm guessing you want to roll with a hyd flat tappet cam with the statement about bang for buck and low mx setup...Lunati 268/276 or Comp XE 268 or even a stock 340 Hi po cam...
Converter-go custom with about 2800-3000 stall (3.73s should work well in your app IMO)
your old headers-if they fit a Duster, should fit a Dart as well.
Go through your 904 with new parts, a higher ratio kickdown lever, and a TF-1 or 2 kit...
Click to expand...

The better of a converter you can put in the car is a good thing. 2500-3000 stall. The newer converters are not like the ones we ran in the 80's. Many drive exactly like a stock converter, some even tighter under cruise conditions. When you mash the gas, they come alive.

Here's almost that exact build in a 71 Demon. Car runs real close to 105mph in the 1/4 with a fat tune. 360, xe268H, J heads, LD340, 1" open spacer, 750dp, headers, 2500 hughes converter, and 2.76 gears. Got 20 MPG on highway going ~60mph.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/crackedback/media/DemonontheRoad009-1.mp4.html?sort=3&o=164
 
First thing first why did it spin a rod bearing? Not sure? The TRW pistons are suspect to me as they are extremly heavy by todays standards and not something I would run in a revy engine... If I recall they are just over or just under a 1000 grams..
I, for a street engine do Hyperutectic pistons, light weight and no rattle when cold or hot. Bore .030 and balance it. Now you have a fresh foundation for a spirited 340 with longjevity in mind, if you think you will get wild with it go new school forged. Foundation first, everything after that can be changed while in the car if you end up wanting more power.
 
Some good news, while I didnt have an ld340 manifold, the heads are x heads and have had some porting done to them.

so now
340 block 10.5 - 1
x heads, some porting done.
**still undecided on cam **Looking into Lunati and some suggested calling Hughes (anybody have experience with Hughes Products?)
will be purchasing an RPM Air Gap
**Carb undecided, would still like advice on carbs
Will be putting the 3.73's in the future maybe in a few months or so and Trans will follow or should I do it reverse?
 
If the rear is in good shape now, I'd leave it alone and do the trans first...freshening up the engine and not the trans when you have the opportunity is kinda silly. As cracked mentioned, a GOOD converter will make a world of difference...if you want to swap to 3.73s later, do it...but if it's good to go right now I'd roll with it.

Carb...I like my easy to mess with and docile Edelbrock, but if you want max tunability and best power capability, you need to go Holley or derivative thereof.
 
X2 txstang84

I would add a little pocket port myself also
 
I called Lunati about a cam they recommend P#10200704

Dur (Int/Exh) 276/284
Dur@ 0050 (234/242
Valve Lift .513/.533
RPM Range 2200-6400

anybody run this and is it too much?
 
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