MORE VALVE TRAIN QUESTIONS................

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DON BURKHOLDER said:
No heat required. I slid a 3/8" box wrench over the ball end of the rod - down to the back side of the cup, then tighten the ball end into a drill press chuck to hold it. Then tap the wrench with a small hammer and the cup will come off the the rod tube. You can use the drill press to reassemble the cup stem into the rod tube after trimming to size.
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Hmmm. I think I'll take a crack at that. Thanks.
 
CFD244 said:
Thanks Steve. Are they the OEM's that came with the 273 originally?
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Yes, I went and saw the guy with the cam, he had these ball/cup pushrods. 7.330 Crane and 7.5 in plastic bag (can't remember mfg). I'm not sure where they measure. My oem are approx 7.4375" from ball to top flat side of cup. Too big for your purpose?

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DON BURKHOLDER said:
No heat required. I slid a 3/8" box wrench over the ball end of the rod - down to the back side of the cup, then tighten the ball end into a drill press chuck to hold it. Then tap the wrench with a small hammer and the cup will come off the the rod tube. You can use the drill press to reassemble the cup stem into the rod tube after trimming to size.
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Man, I thought we had a winner here. They came apart with this procedure.......Unfortunately though, the cups just slid in with zero interference after I trimmed the rods .184. Not sure I'd want to rely 100% on Loctite in this instance. Thanks for the input. :thumbsup:
 
The op should buy .080 shorter push rods and move on with the build.
ideally 2 threads above the nut and 4 threads below the rocker is what I shoot for. Lengths and rockers vary.. so sometimes you just break even. If nothing hits outside where its supposed to.. good.
 
66fs said:
Are you crazy? Measure the pushrod length, you can get one anywhere. Shim the shafts .060 for the hydraulic rockers and be done.
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Do you have any suggestions as to where I can get .040 shims to fit between the rocker shaft and the tower?
 
66fs said:
Hydraulic rockers are not that critical. They self adjust. Enjoy!

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Thanks for the link 66. Having a hard time sourcing custom ball/cup push rods, and want to get the engine back together. I think I may ditch the adjustables and go OEM. .080 currently on the oem's with no shim. I usually like to be somewhere in the middle of spec. Comp says .020 to .085 with their lifters.
 
CFD244 said:
Thanks for the link 66. Having a hard time sourcing custom ball/cup push rods, and want to get the engine back together. I think I may ditch the adjustables and go OEM. .080 currently on the oem's with no shim. I usually like to be somewhere in the middle of spec. Comp says .020 to .085 with their lifters.
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I reserve adjustables for solid cams. Did you try Smith Brothers or Trend? Sounds like either .030 or .040 will work. It is so nice to just bolt hydraulic rocker shaft assemblies on and go. They have never given me a problem. Check retainer to rocker clearance and make sure the shaft oiling holes are oriented correctly and forget them.
 
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Well, I decided to abandon the adjustable rocker idea. I ended up using the factory hydraulic set up........Using a .040 shim under the rocker shaft, I was able to get a consistent .035 preload measured at the lifter. I mad a die and pressed the shims to the proper shape without stressing the rocker shaft towers. Loaded up the cam, lifters (after a pre-soak but no pump up) and pushrod tips with Comp Cams cam lube (which sure did feel like chainsaw bar oil, but at 5 times the price). She's all ready for the intake now. I'll tell you about that tomorrow in my other thread LD340 MODIFICATION OR NOT?
 
Thanks, that would have done the trick. I didn't know they were available now a days. All manufacturers were way out as far as delivery.
 
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