motor plate phasing?!?!?!?!?

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stamierdodge

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73 duster installing 400 with 727 with elephant ears. gm 10 bolt rear narrowed with offset pumpkin,roughly 3 inches. how do i phase the motor to rearend. install motor and trans dead center? please throw info out there
 
I think the engines are offset side to side in the front towards the passenger side. Look under the hood of a B body, the engine is offset from the factory. (offset from center)
Of course if you can run it totally centered by whatever means,even more the better.
From the factory, this had to do with interference of componnents , mostly steering.
The ideal setting is totaly centered, level side to side and level with rocker panel from front to rear. However, it can be nosed up in the front a bit from level and offset to the passenger side. Never nosed down in the front. dont know how they did the original big block A bodies.
 
ya i figured to the side for steering but with my non centered rearend im stumpedim doing the b body headers also so centering it would interfere to much with the headers. :banghead:
 
slight edit; most factory cars had the rocker level to the ground. In a race car, this may not be the case, in this case, the front of engine can be nosed up to compensate for the "rake". Also rear of the trans can be raised or lowered. The angle of the trans/driveshaft should be the same (but opposite) of the driveshaft to the rear. Drag cars with lots of torque, the angle on the rear pinion would be "nosed down" a bit more from the ideal angles. Obviously, the ideal driveline would be almost perfect straight line, with the exception for the rear suspension travel, drive shaft would point down slightly to compensate for upward travel just a bit.
 
Mopar Performance Chassis Manual Ninth Edition. It's all there.
 
with the offset rear, I dont think the angle will add up to a bunch. because the angles of the shaft to trans is just the same as the angle to the shaft to rear end, they kind of cancel each other out. but you dont want to go too far. Now see what happens if you off set the front of the engine too much, the angles start to get too far from each other. with a centered rear and the engine offset its not too bad or with an off set rear and a straight centered engine/trans its not too bad but with an off set engine (front of engine only) and the off set rear (to the passenger side) you may have to do some measuring of angles (draw it out). U joints can only go so far. I'll look through my old mopar chassis manual to see if I can find some more info.
 
what would really healp in your situation is if you could somehow manage to move the rear of the trans over a bit to the passenger side. But then there's that hump right in the way
 
strokerscamp i sqeezed real hard but the toilet was still empty! :cheese:
what is the stock degree for a big block a body 1,2, inches to passenger side?
 
stamierdodge said:
strokerscamp i sqeezed real hard but the toilet was still empty! :cheese:
what is the stock degree for a big block a body 1,2, inches to passenger side?
Click to expand...

I'm confrooshoused about your question. Inches are inches and degrees are degrees. Are you talking about engine and trans OFFSET from center as viewed from the top?
 
yes. aka ina dera crookeda! since my rearends yolk is not centered i do not know if i need the engine centered to have an offset with the yolk and rear output shaft. the rearend came out a cj 5 so thats why its not centered. found it in a dumpster narrowed auburn posi strange axles and 3.55 gears. freeeeeebie
 
I see said the blind man. Well, all of the "normal measurements" are in the chassis manual. I don't think Larry shepard said anything about a CJ5 rear axle. lol Which side is the 3rd member offset towards? the only reason for any engine offset to begin with is for steering clearance and that's it.
 
What you WANT is looking down from the top 'plan view' you want the trans output shaft and the pinion shaft PARALLEL

Looking from the side, you want them "as close to parallal" as you can get under accelleration
 
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