motor plate.

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mygasser

mygasser

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an obvious question, unless i'm missing something. i want to use a front motor plate but don't want the hassle of pulley spacing/swapping.
so, if i have the plate thickness plus the extra gasket thickness machined off of the water pump gasket face on the timing cover i shouldn't have any issues with that right?
it's a small block of course.
cheers, neil.
 
If you remove material from the front gasket face, will there be room for the water pump impeller?

If not, it may still have an affect on cooling performance.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
If you remove material from the front gasket face, will there be room for the water pump impeller?

If not, it may still have an affect on cooling performance.
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it won't affect it as the motor plate puts the removed thickness back in. basically you're machining 1/4" off of the timing cover and replacing it with the 1/4" motor plate so the impeller is the same distance from the timing cover.
neil.
 
why do you want to use a plate ? there must be an easier way to keep that engine under the hood
 
mygasser said:
an obvious question, unless i'm missing something. i want to use a front motor plate but don't want the hassle of pulley spacing/swapping.
so, if i have the plate thickness plus the extra gasket thickness machined off of the water pump gasket face on the timing cover i shouldn't have any issues with that right?
it's a small block of course.
cheers, neil.
Click to expand...

Dont know about the small block , but thats the way I did my 440/505 -------jfyi
 
mygasser said:
if i don't machine the timing cover you mean?
neil.
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a
shimming the pulleys out to the thickness of the new motor plate , might cause rad . clearance problems . I machined about .260 off my water pump housing, and about .060 off the
IMG_0470 (1).JPG

front leading edges of my fan clutch fins , they were very un even to start with, and had to use the shortest clutch they make .

this is a big block tho-------
 
Don’t machine it off the face of the WP, take it off from the pulley side.

Make sure you use a WP with a plate on the impeller as the engine plate will make the pump much less efficient.
 
can i ask a stupid question ? what are you going to be doing with this car? are you building it for a special purpose ?
 
i'm building a gasser, nose up 60's style with a straight tube front axle, tunnel ram through the hood, slot mags (rears most likely outside the body), flake paint, signwriting etc etc. 90% of the time it'll be a street car, but i'll take it to the strip occasionally.
neil.
 
Neil, whether you are running on the street or on the track, be sure to run a limiter to control the forward & backward movement with a motorplate. Ask me how I know... LMAO
 
yellow rose said:
Don’t machine it off the face of the WP, take it off from the pulley side.

Make sure you use a WP with a plate on the impeller as the engine plate will make the pump much less efficient.
Click to expand...
i'll be machining the timing cover not the water pump. the motor plate is open where the water pump impeller goes, it's cut to match the inside edge of the water pump gasket.i'll end up with the impeller being in the same place as it was in relation to the timing cover so as far as the pump's function that won't change. if my pump isn't a 'disc' backed type i'll probably cut a stainless disc and rivet it to the impeller blades to improve the efficiency, good idea. :thumbsup:
neil.
 
mygasser said:
i'm building a gasser, nose up 60's style with a straight tube front axle, tunnel ram through the hood, slot mags (rears most likely outside the body), flake paint, signwriting etc etc. 90% of the time it'll be a street car, but i'll take it to the strip occasionally.
neil.
Click to expand...
thanks , sounds like an interesting project . Do you have a thread on the engine build ?
Good luck and have fun
 
Nat said:
thanks , sounds like an interesting project . Do you have a thread on the engine build ?
Good luck and have fun
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no, i bought the engine as is from a guy who was swapping to a 408 in his car. it's a fair spec though as it ran a 13.2 with a 4 speed in a 68 valiant (same as mine) last summer before he pulled it. not too bad for a 318.
neil.
 
It doesn't take any hard braking for the plate to begin to fatigue & over a period of time the plate weakens, trust me on this. LOL
 
i'd heard about this issue so planned a tube 'stay' forward to the chassis from the plate close to the motor, maybe both sides. i'm a belt and braces kinda guy, it comes from a farming background :thumbsup:
neil.
 
what is your plate made of and how thick is it?
 
mygasser said:
to buy they're 1/4" aluminum, but i may get it cut from steel (possibly stainless). i'll speak to my guy who cuts stuff like that for me.
neil.
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COOL , ONLY PROB WITH ALUMINIUM is metal fatigue after a few years , but it is so muck lighter .i use that for skid plates on my truck , but no real stress on that so of no concern .
good luck
 
Nat said:
COOL , ONLY PROB WITH ALUMINIUM is metal fatigue after a few years , but it is so muck lighter .i use that for skid plates on my truck , but no real stress on that so of no concern .
good luck
Click to expand...
wouldn't stainless have the same issue?..i'd probably do aluminum and maybe plan on replacing it in 5 years
 
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