MP Frame Connectors

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SwingerMan

SwingerMan

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Does anyone out in A-body land know if the MP sub frame connectors bolt into existing holes or do we have to bust out the drill? I plan on getting a set and eventually having the welded in but will have to go the bolt-on route for now.
Thanks
 
You have to drill holes for them. I just had mine welded though.
 
Ya i did the same thing with mine,I just welded them in place,most people say if you bolt them in that over time they will eggshape the holes.
 
I wound up welding them in AFTER I drilled and bolted them. :banghead: Luckily I had given it some fore thought and cleaned the metal just in case. Just weld em'
 
i wouldnt waste the $...I made mine from 2"x2" square tubing(matches the subframe tubes) It was a straight shot from the T bar crosstubes to the rear subframe rails...they will stick up into the rear floor a little bit(where your feet go sitting in the back seat) just cut the 2" slot in the floor...weld to frame tubes and floor and done for alot less than Mopar wants for pre mades...
 
I agree, if you have a welder and the time to do it yourself I would go that route. Way cheaper, cost me less than $25 for materials.
 
SwingerMan said:
Does anyone out in A-body land know if the MP sub frame connectors bolt into existing holes or do we have to bust out the drill? I plan on getting a set and eventually having the welded in but will have to go the bolt-on route for now. Thanks
Click to expand...

That would be a mistake to bolt em in and go back later and weld.. As, you'll never get the metal as clean as you can now. Try n weld it later, almost guarantees a pourous weld. Sand blasting at a later point would probably work, but it also makes more work, nevermind the mess. Be Patient Grasshopper... Get them welded. You'll be happy you did. :thumbup:
 
Not really a mistake. You can bolt them in and then take them in to be welded later, just means a little more effort to prep the weld area. As to a porus weld, if whoever does the welding knows his stuff, he'll be able to get the pieces welded together just fine, oil in the weld is a bigger concern than a little oxide of iron. I am/was a welder by trade and am very anal about weld prep, but know that sometimes your just going to have to deal with a little crap in the joint your trying to make. It just depends on what the purpose of the weld joint is as to how crittical it will be. Sub frame connectors are not what I consider critical. A mediocre weld will hold them in and allow them to do their job.
 
:thumbup: Yeah , but isn't it just easier to spend the $ and weld em'/ get them welded by a pro.. The 1st time??? Why spend all that time and effort drilling holes and bolting them in when welding them in has the same effect, if not better. Long run you save time and $. I'm thinking Swingerman has a street car he wants better. So, I'm for save the $ (till ya got enough) and just do it right the 1st time. No reason to jump the gun here. He really didn't say why he was going bolt on or how fast he wanted it done. .. Having done it to my 73' Duster I'll tell ya, If I had just welded em in the 1st place I could have saved at least 6 hours labor. On a second note, if you do drill them, the rear bolt holes get steel sleeves which require fitting, trimming and you have to weld the sleeve to the frame so it won't move. So if he dosen't know how to weld and has to bring it somebody for the welds it's kinda pointless to use the bolts.

I'm just trying to get him the best bang for the $. Lord knows there's other things to work and spend $ on. :toothy7:
 
When you welded them in did you remove the carpet from the car? I am thinking that may be a good idea with all the heat of welding. Another thing is my Dart is undercoated I am guessing that I will need to remove all of the under coating from where the welds will be made, that's going to be fun :-|
 
is there a way i could just perhaps put a notch in the tubes (2x2) so i dont have to cut into my rear floors cause they are in awesome condition and i really dont wanna hack em up. and i dont have to have a super weld either, thats good, im pretty good at welding anyways, im gonna have to make myself a set of these
:toothy7:
 
Check out my post in this old thread to see how I did it:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=2575

You don't have to cut the floor at all, just be careful not to flex the body. If the body is solid to begin with it should not be a problem, just check it. Mark the doors at the top and bottom front and back with tape or dry wipe marker. If you get the connectors in place with no (I mean ABSOLUTELY NO) flex, weld 'em in. That worked for me. Duster's rock solid now. Felt like a different car after that.

:thumbup:
 
Weld 'em! Don't mess around with the bolts and welding 'em in later. That is a waste of time and money. For my Valiant, (which I thought was pretty solid to begin with), I bought to 45" lengths of 2x2 steel and welded them in. I have maybe 4 hours and bbq'ing dinner for a friend on top of the 15 bucks I spent on steel into the whole project. It totally changed the car in my opinion. It feels really solid now and I would reccommend it for anyone not doing a numbers restoration. For the record, I didn't cut into the floor, we just flattened a rib in the pan that was holding us down. For a more sano look and even better rigidity, I would go with cutting the floorpan and welding it to the connector also.

Revhendo
 
I bolted and welded mine...just bolt them up loose to know where your contact is going to be mark it then remove them prep the area and reinstall. then weld away. I did it just so if the weld didn't hold the bolts would. just use grade 8 bolts.

if you decided to bolt them in and want to weld them later then you can unbolt them and do the welding right.
 
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