Any "analog" MSD gurus out there?
I have an MSD Boost Master timing control that is a combination spark retard unit for dialing back the spark when boost occurs in a supercharged or turbocharged engine, AND contains a "module" that replaces the stock (OEM) ecu(?) "orange box" ignition module that my early Mopar came from the factory with.
Although it is manufactured and sold by MSD (part number 5462), it is NOT a "multiple spark discharge" unit like a 6- or 7-AL. It is a conventional "amplifier" that uses the OEM distributor's magnetic signal to fire the plug. It has a dash-mounted knob that allows the driver to retard the spark either one, two, or three degrees for each pound of boost the blower makes. It has a sensor that reads a manifold presssure signal, delivered from the intake manifold to the module via a 1/8"-dia. hose.
I installed mine on my Vortech-blown 360 Dpdge Magnum, along with an Accel Super Coil, #40001, which is a VERY popular aftermarket coil, particularly for street cars. Summit sells a bazillion of 'em...
I wired it all up as per the MSD instructions, and it started and ran fine.... for about 30 minutes. THEN,
It stopped like somebody had turned the key off; NO spark.
I returned the #5462 module to MSD in El Paso, for repairs.
While I was awaiting its return home, I called MSD to see what could have caused such a short life for this $230.00 piece.
The first tech I talked to said, "That #5462 unit KILLED that Accel coil; you can't use that coil with the #5462.
Later that day, I called MSD again, got a different tech who told me, "No, no, no, no, NO! The coill killed the #5462... not the other way around! You can't use that coil with a #5462.
By the way; nowhere in the instructions does it say anything about ANY coil. The implication is that there's no problem using any coil of your choice.
When the #5462 was returned to me ($24.95 repair fee), it said MSD repair services had replaced a burned out transistor. I forget the number...
In the meantime, I have replaced the Accel coil with an MSD "Blaster" coil, which BOTH technicians have agreed is the recommended coil for that #5462 module.
It starts up and runs okay, but I am afraid to get very far from home with it; GUN SHY, now...
One of the techs said my chassis ground was probably at fault.
My (two) batteries are in the trunk. I ran a #2 welding cable from the batteries to the starter (remember, this is a Mopar, and the battery cable connects directly to the starter), and ran a 6-volt (BIG!) ground cable to a sanded-bare spot on the trunk floor, while another identical cable runs from the inner frnder panel to a bare spot on the engine block. This is a unibody car... everything is one piece.
It spins about 500 rpm on the starter with 190 PSI cranking compression.
Does that sound like a bad ground to you?
I am not being smart-***; I am asking. I am woefuly ignorant about electronics, but I have heard that a bad chassis ground will kill a transistor dead....
When this thing died the first time, (the only time, really) I was accelerating pretty hard away from a stoplight, and at about 20mph, it just quit...
Like I said, the total system had no more than 30 minutes running time on it, but had been working flawlessly, up until then.
Any ideas?
DARE I TAKE THIS CAR 10 MILES FROM HOME????
I don't have AAA...
Thanks for any advice or information about what could have caused that catastrophic ignition failure. I didn't mind the $24.95, but, I hated to have to call Bobby Roper to tow me home... not something I'd want to repeat, although he did so, graciously.
Anybody???
I'd call MSD again, but every time I call them I get a different tech and a different answer...
I have an MSD Boost Master timing control that is a combination spark retard unit for dialing back the spark when boost occurs in a supercharged or turbocharged engine, AND contains a "module" that replaces the stock (OEM) ecu(?) "orange box" ignition module that my early Mopar came from the factory with.
Although it is manufactured and sold by MSD (part number 5462), it is NOT a "multiple spark discharge" unit like a 6- or 7-AL. It is a conventional "amplifier" that uses the OEM distributor's magnetic signal to fire the plug. It has a dash-mounted knob that allows the driver to retard the spark either one, two, or three degrees for each pound of boost the blower makes. It has a sensor that reads a manifold presssure signal, delivered from the intake manifold to the module via a 1/8"-dia. hose.
I installed mine on my Vortech-blown 360 Dpdge Magnum, along with an Accel Super Coil, #40001, which is a VERY popular aftermarket coil, particularly for street cars. Summit sells a bazillion of 'em...
I wired it all up as per the MSD instructions, and it started and ran fine.... for about 30 minutes. THEN,
It stopped like somebody had turned the key off; NO spark.
I returned the #5462 module to MSD in El Paso, for repairs.
While I was awaiting its return home, I called MSD to see what could have caused such a short life for this $230.00 piece.
The first tech I talked to said, "That #5462 unit KILLED that Accel coil; you can't use that coil with the #5462.
Later that day, I called MSD again, got a different tech who told me, "No, no, no, no, NO! The coill killed the #5462... not the other way around! You can't use that coil with a #5462.
By the way; nowhere in the instructions does it say anything about ANY coil. The implication is that there's no problem using any coil of your choice.
When the #5462 was returned to me ($24.95 repair fee), it said MSD repair services had replaced a burned out transistor. I forget the number...
In the meantime, I have replaced the Accel coil with an MSD "Blaster" coil, which BOTH technicians have agreed is the recommended coil for that #5462 module.
It starts up and runs okay, but I am afraid to get very far from home with it; GUN SHY, now...
One of the techs said my chassis ground was probably at fault.
My (two) batteries are in the trunk. I ran a #2 welding cable from the batteries to the starter (remember, this is a Mopar, and the battery cable connects directly to the starter), and ran a 6-volt (BIG!) ground cable to a sanded-bare spot on the trunk floor, while another identical cable runs from the inner frnder panel to a bare spot on the engine block. This is a unibody car... everything is one piece.
It spins about 500 rpm on the starter with 190 PSI cranking compression.
Does that sound like a bad ground to you?
I am not being smart-***; I am asking. I am woefuly ignorant about electronics, but I have heard that a bad chassis ground will kill a transistor dead....
When this thing died the first time, (the only time, really) I was accelerating pretty hard away from a stoplight, and at about 20mph, it just quit...
Like I said, the total system had no more than 30 minutes running time on it, but had been working flawlessly, up until then.
Any ideas?
DARE I TAKE THIS CAR 10 MILES FROM HOME????
I don't have AAA...
Thanks for any advice or information about what could have caused that catastrophic ignition failure. I didn't mind the $24.95, but, I hated to have to call Bobby Roper to tow me home... not something I'd want to repeat, although he did so, graciously.
Anybody???
I'd call MSD again, but every time I call them I get a different tech and a different answer...